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raw oil odor when it's very cold?

GW
GW Member Posts: 4,832
I have a guy calling who says his oil guy can't figure out: raw oil odor when it's very cold. Does anyone know of any possibilities? I'm thinking there may be a tank piping issue (vent side), and the house is stacking when it's cold. Thanks for any tips.

gary wilson
Gary Wilson
Wilson Services, Inc
Northampton, MA
gary@wilsonph.com

Comments

  • Constantin
    Constantin Member Posts: 3,796
    \"Shot into the blue\"...

    I have no experience with the subject and can only conjecture... here are some things I'd consider:
    • Something on the Tank is loose, allowing some air movement into the house. I think this is what you're thinking of.
    • There was an oil spill in the basement some time ago. Only when the heating system runs continuously does the basement become warm enough to make the remaining stuff evaporate. Cold exterior temperatures then make the stack effect carry it upstairs.
    • The boiler/flue connection or chimney isn't perfect. Whenever the boiler runs for a long time, the escaping flue gasses make the place less comfortable.
    • The oil pump is leaking minute amounts of oil at the connection, etc. The stuff evaporates before it hits the ground (or doesn't), long run times make it noticable
    Well, there you go for a couple of ideas. I look forward to hearing what the source actually was. My inclination would be to look for past spills first, then determine if there are any extant possible spill sources, so I'd trace the fuel system from start to finish looking for holes.
  • Jaitch
    Jaitch Member Posts: 68
    Recent Delivery?

    Was there a recent delivery? Cold,cold oil in the tank will flow at a greater flow rate than the nozzle is rated for, at 100psi, or whatever pressure the pump is set for. (Also creates soot, etc from improper air adjustment at the greater flow rate)

    Also in a recent delivery scenario, as the oil warms to room (basement) temp, it expands. How far down in the tank is the ventalarm whistle? Some old-timers would "trim" the V/A to get the tank fuller, resulting in the cold oil expanding, and overfilling the tank.

    Where is the tank? (Basement I assume)
    If the tank is outside "cold oil" could be the culprit also.

    Plus all the stuff that Constanin mentioned.

    Good Luck, hope this helps.

    JOHN
  • tommyoil
    tommyoil Member Posts: 612
    Could you explain

    how cold oil will flow at a greater rate than warm oil? I am somewhat confused(again).
  • Rudy
    Rudy Member Posts: 482
    Cold oil

    I know it doesn't make sense but I've had it explained to me by a bunch of folks that know more than I - so I've got to believe it!!

    Has to do with cold oil being more dense. It is also why a nozzle line heater can provide for a smother light off. Less oil comes out of the nozzle at 160 degrees and slowly "modulates" up to the full rated capacity as cooler oil comes through.
  • Weezbo
    Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
    indoor or outdoor tank?................

    indoors: i would suspect venting leaky fitting .... outdoors:a leak under ground at a weld or small leak in tank itself...the oil seeps around the tank andthen to the building ,is wicked into the stone ,block brick,cement,all weather wood....and drys in air in the room you notice the odour....
  • GW
    GW Member Posts: 4,832
    postponed

    I had to push back the appointment and the guy cancelled until the fall! I guess I was going to interrupt his dinner if I got there at 4:00.

    Thanks for all the replies. I may "blow" air into the oil tank with the shop vac and see what it smells like. If I get there on a cold day, I'll do a pressure differential check between the second floor and the basement; the house is probably stacking like someone said.

    I have a Retrotec DM1 that is known to sense a nat's passing gas (it reads pascals).



    gary
    Gary Wilson
    Wilson Services, Inc
    Northampton, MA
    gary@wilsonph.com
  • Bill Nye_2
    Bill Nye_2 Member Posts: 538
    Tommy

    It is the droplet size, the cold oil can not be atomized to a fine vapor like the warmer oil can. Below 20° #2 starts giving problems. You will get a smoky fire and poor light off until things warm up. Nozzle line heaters really help . Increasing pump pressure [and decreasing nozzle size] helps too. I didn't want to believe this at first either
  • tommyoil
    tommyoil Member Posts: 612
    Hi Bill

    That much I understand as there are PLENTY of outdoor, above ground tanks here. However, the comment was that oil flows at a greater rate when its cold. I took that to mean that more oil will flow through the lines when its cold. No mention was made of poor atomization. If a one gallon/hour nozzle is set for 100 PSI and "cold cold" oil flows through it, does that mean there is more than one gal/hr flowing through that nozzle? Or does it maintain one gallon/hr with poor atomization being the result of cold oil. I am taking atomization and flow of oil as two different things. Am I splitting hairs here? I think I've been home too long. Hope all is well by you. Tommy
  • sootmonkey
    sootmonkey Member Posts: 158
    cold oil

    let me take a stab at this.....i have been told that a noz will pass more cold oil than warm oil because.......cold oil is more dense.....was also told(By the same person) that when the oil is cold, that means the air is cold, which means that the chimney is drafting better, which means more air being pulled through the burner.....what??? more air through the burner?...what about your draft regulator?....isn't that seposed to take care of changes in draft?.......
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