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Baxi Problem
Maine Ken
Member Posts: 531
Singh, I run thermostats directly into the Baxi for one zone apps. End switches from taco zvc's on multi zones (zone valves). I wire my zvc with a plug and plug it into the same dedicated outlet that the Baxi gets plugged into. Never had a problem. Definately never had 120v on the terminals!!!
Something is amiss with you situation.
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Something is amiss with you situation.
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=346&Step=30">To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"</A>
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Baxi Problem
I was called in to check no heat or hot water from a Baxi 310 combi unit.Home owner switch unit to heating mode , which cycled on and off a few minutes before failure.
I was not the installing contractor,that was done by a propane supplier, who had no prior experience with unit and now is MIA.
I found flame failure #6 LED flashing.
I believe the main PCB board needs to be change, in addition I believe it is wired incorrectly. There is 120V being supplied to boiler via plug in cord, but t-stats (T87's) control zone valves,valves are wired thru transformer,and end switch wiring from zv goes into boiler. As commonly done on most boilers. Baxi manual says external controls must be suitable for 120V , and I believe this is causing the falme failure.
What is the best way to wire the controls (two zone valves and tstat) and does any think something other than PCB board got fried.
Thanks.
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Zone control only goes dry contacts into t-t terminals inside Baxi. I think your flame failure is from something else. Check your venting, and your piping. The baxi has a flow switch- no water flow = no flame.
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There are no t-t terminals on the Baxi , wiring diagram show t-stat goes to a terminal block 1 and 2 which is 120V. I agree flame failure could be caused by other switches,like flow switch, faulty gas valve, safety thermostat,fan switch. All seem to be ok,that is why I think PCB board bad,question is could the control wiring caused this. This is a new install this pass summer, first time homeowner switch to heat caused this ,before he had plenty of DHW.0 -
All of my installs have t-stats (one zone applications) or isolated end switch (taco zvc multi zone apps) connected to the terminals on the Baxi. Please check the manual before you put 120v to the unit or you will need a new board.
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Thanks Ken,
Just by plugging in the boiler you have 120V going out. Board is history, I don't want to replace and fry it again.
Manual says t-stat controls must be 120V suitable.
I'm no electrician, but the way it is wired now there is 24v going in and 120V
out at the same terminals.
I tried Roy from Baxi, but his cell does not work and email bounced back.
I'll try Baxi tech service again.
Thanks.
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Baxi problem
Hi Singh,
Sorry you could not get me on my cell phone, hope someone in the office could help you out; BTW got your email today.
Thanks Ken for helping out here, the cheque is in the
mail ;0)
As Ken said the flashing LED #6 is flame failure which is not related to the wiring issue you describe. This fault code will show if the boiler fails to light or it lights but the flame signal is not detected. I can let you have a troubleshooting guide that we have put together to help with the fault codes and remedies.
The connection for the room stat or end switch is line voltage but most of the contractors use a small 24 volt relay and mount it inside the boiler (see attachment)that way the 24 volts operates the relay bringing the boiler on.
Let me know if you have found out anymore with this boiler and if you have it working or not0 -
Baxi trouble
Hi Singh,
Sorry that you could not get me on my cell phone, I hope that someone in the office was able to help. BTW I got your email this morning.
Thanks Ken for helping out here, the cheque is in the mail ;0)
As Ken was saying the flashing LED #6 has no connection with the room stat or zone control wiring. That error code is shown when the boiler fails to light or if the flame signal is not detected by the boiler. I can let you have a troubleshooting guide that we have put together, it will help with fault finding on this boiler. Let me have your details, either electronic or snail mail and I will get it to you.
The connection 1 + 2 is line voltage but is just a jumper to close a circuit. Most contractors use a small relay and put it inside the boiler (see attachment), this way they can get the 24 volts to operate the relay and bring on the boiler. We also have an accessory availlable now with a 24 volt transformer and relay on a small PCB to fit inside the boiler, this will supply the voltage to operate a t/stat.
I hope that you have got the problem sorted out by now, if not please contact us again.
Regards, Roy0 -
I can't wait for the new relay,to make wiring controls and tstats easier.
MOST GUYS DON'T REALIZE 120V IS AT 1 AND 2 TERMINALS.
Thanks Roy for your help.0
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