Pex connection, limited access

Mitch S.

As we know to connect pex we generaly use a mechanical nut & feral or we crimp it.

I have seen some spring loaded clamps for watts and you only have to catch there sinch clamp on one side. Wersbo uses an expansion tool.

Also there are some barbed fittings I have seen on the market but have not used.

What P!@#$ me o$% about pex is if you look at the many many many brands out there allot of them look like they are made by the same parent company (look alike but different names) of course if you talk to a rep they all say if you mix and match you are on your own.

Some standardisation would certainly help those of us that do remodeling and service in the field.

Hope the first part helps, the second part was just venting.

Mitch S.

Newt Loken

Pex connection, Limited access

We primarily install RFH and only occaisionally do fin tube HBB. We also do an occaisional "Radiant Rescue", when called in to help fix a "rough" rough-in by an inexperienced homeowner or plumber. We also walk into covered rough ins on occaision, hope for the best and finish up with RPA member quality. QUESTION...(finally!).. We have a Radiant Rescue that we stepped into that has leaks on the radiator risers (1/2" brass nips) that stub up thru the floor as supply and returns for the radiators upstairs. We have cut small access holes to allow better access to the pex to drop ear 90 threaded adapters. Since rough-in was done in pex and chosen(previous to us) heat source was a water heater no possibility of redoing the loops in P.A.P or copper for higher heat (typ. for radiators). Luckily these were sized adequately for heat loss (mild climate in W.Oregon)at 135 deg.F water temp. Our PREFERENCE would be to cut these drop ear adapters out all together and recouple with pex to copper stub for easier connection to radiators but getting a tool inside the floor cavity without cutting a BIG hole is the problem. "Big hole" would go in wood floor above or "Plaster" ceiling above. I'm trying to prevent more of THEIR expense than necessary.
Do any of you more experienced Pex/radiator surgeons have some previous triage storys you can relate. And any "specialty" Pex tools that would fit down "under the skin" with a small incision. Damn, it's starting to sound like a .... tube tying operation.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Newt

Newt Loken

Pex connection, Limited access

We primarily install RFH and only occaisionally do fin tube HBB. We also do an occaisional "Radiant Rescue", when called in to help fix a "rough" rough-in by an inexperienced homeowner or plumber. We also walk into covered rough ins on occaision, hope for the best and finish up with RPA member quality. QUESTION...(finally!).. We have a Radiant Rescue that we stepped into that has leaks on the radiator risers (1/2" brass nips) that stub up thru the floor as supply and returns for the radiators upstairs. We have cut small access holes to allow better access to the pex to drop ear 90 threaded adapters. Since rough-in was done in pex and chosen(previous to us) heat source was a water heater no possibility of redoing the loops in P.A.P or copper for higher heat (typ. for radiators). Luckily these were sized adequately for heat loss (mild climate in W.Oregon)at 135 deg.F water temp. Our PREFERENCE would be to cut these drop ear adapters out all together and recouple with pex to copper stub for easier connection to radiators but getting a tool inside the floor cavity without cutting a BIG hole is the problem. "Big hole" would go in wood floor above or "Plaster" ceiling above. I'm trying to prevent more of THEIR expense than necessary.
Do any of you more experienced Pex/radiator surgeons have some previous triage storys you can relate. And any "specialty" Pex tools that would fit down "under the skin" with a small incision. Damn, it's starting to sound like a .... tube tying operation.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Newt

J.C.A._3

I feel your pain.....

But in the immortal words of many mentors, am reminded that it's sometimes easier to patch a big hole than a small one.

Either way, if it needs to be repaired, you've got to get in , or must be able to pull the full length from one side or the other and replace the total run. Good luck. Chris

Larry Weingarten

You might...

...want to look into the "Sharkbite" fitting. I would leave a way to have a look at it periodically though, just for peace of mind.

Yours, Larry

Mike C_3

fix it

I havn't used any to date but there are some connectors at my local plumbing supply called shark bites. they fit copper,cpvc, or pex just a slip on deal no extra tools. i've heard of people using them and putting them in a wall to forget about. Might be the trick

WWW.sharkbite.com