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Need some idears

bob_44
bob_44 Member Posts: 112
in the words of Greenspan. Steel plugs are stronger but harder to get out if their stuck. Cast iron is brittle and easy to get out. I just drill small holes(1/8 or 3/16) around the periphery of the plug as close together as i can get them, just inside of the thread depth, you have to guess where that is, then with a small chisel break out the center. It's easy because cast plugs have a large depressed area in the center. Again take a small chisel, I use a cape chisel,and chisel on the threads towards the center , a section will break out and the rest about falls out. Drill cast dry. The whole operation takes less time than it did for me to type this with one finger. Good Luck, bob

Comments

  • Cosmo_3
    Cosmo_3 Member Posts: 845
    need some advice asap

    Looking for some ideas. Tomorrow I will be back on this job, and I want to add a 2nd hi limit on this commercial boiler install. My only mounting option is on the front section of a Weil Mclain #78 boiler. Well I tried removing the 1" plug and the darned head broke clean off. Sometimes I wonder why anyone makes a plug out of cast-iron....

    My idea is to drill a hole through it and try an easy out fitting removal tool.

    Any other ideas?

    Cosmo Valavanis

    Dependable P.H.C. Inc.
  • J.C.A._3
    J.C.A._3 Member Posts: 2,981
    Where there....

    Are no holes for a control well,I've used a manual reset Honeywell 6006c strapped on to the riser. To ensure a good reading, use all the accoutrements that accompany it.

    The Ma. insurance inspectors pass this with no problems. I like to set the a little lower than needed to account for the strap on configuration. Chris
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    I doubt that

    an easy out will do the job, and you sure don't want a broken one of those in the hole!

    I've heated around the plug with a torch, carefully, to remove fittings from old cast iron radiators.

    Could you drill out and tap the plug and insert a 1/2" well?

    It's nice to have the sensor in the fluid stream, but a strap on would be another option if it is a secondary safety.

    Some Euro boilers have a clever well that allows up to 3 or 4 sensors to fit into one well, although smaller diameter than we are used to. It puts the temperature gauge inn the same location of the aquastat and safety. Now that's clever!

    hot rod

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  • Cosmo_3
    Cosmo_3 Member Posts: 845
    Thanks for posting hot rod

    Your right, I REALLY do not want to mess around too much on the front section wall because a fowl up means tapping a 1 1/4" hole, or worse replacing the front section...don't want to go there.

    This is for a secondary limit w/manual reset. I am on this job because it is in a municipal building and I was the refferal. I can't believe this was originally installed this way but go figure.... the air scoops for each zone are also installed 12" downstream of the circs....aye caramba.

    That was a good idea with the multiple use well, I see them w/ the Buderus, and Viessmann boilers I have worked with. I can easily remove either one of 2 LWC's, and the P&T guage has a 1" tapping w/ 1X1/4 bushing, and the hi/low limit also a 1" tapping. I really wish that I could incorporate both limits in one tapping, but have not seen anything yet. Have you seen anything?

    Cosmo Valavanis

    Dependable P.H.C. Inc.
  • Cosmo_3
    Cosmo_3 Member Posts: 845
    I was thinking about that

    I was able to feel the inside of the plug through a nearby lwc tapping using a piece of solder, the plug is only slightly dimpled. Also all that junk in the casting.....but in such a big boiler I doubt it would cause any harm.......

    Good Idea, have you done it before?


    Cosmo Valavanis

    Dependable P.H.C. Inc.
  • bob_44
    bob_44 Member Posts: 112
    Many times

  • Cosmo_3
    Cosmo_3 Member Posts: 845
    Thanks man

    I'll owe ya a beer sometime....

    Cosmo Valavanis

    Dependable P.H.C. Inc.
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