Circulator flanges and paint on the threads

ScottMP

I always soldered first and then threaded it in. I also Agree with JCA on the dope/tape/dope.

What kind of flanges are we talking about ? Who's the manufacuture ? I had one companys spring checks that leaked all the time. I did my whole boiler manifold and had three leaks ... three spring checks.

Scott

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Unknown

Is anyone else having leaks

where an adaptor or nipple threads into a circ flange ? I've seen this on a few jobs I went back to recently - everything is tight except that spot . I'm wondering if the paint on the inner threads of the flanges might cause a small weep ? I always paint the inner threads with sealant , but that doesn't seem to stop the problem .

J.C.A._3

Ron,

Dope/High density tape/dope. Thin coats of the dope and your problems are solved. The guys I work with swear at me...until it fixes the leak. Like I tell everyone...You stay late, I'm going home for dinner.2 extra minutes makes it all go away.

If you're bottoming out the fittings/flanges by hand, A bit of wicking with the same . Chris

P.S. I'll be down March 31th for the annual Brookhaven to do. Hope you can make it for the pre-festivities. JCA

Unknown

same here

I get pits in my stomach to see those pump flanges leaking in a year time.. I just taped and #5 dope all threads...

Bill Nye_2

Ron,

Do you solder before or after? I pre-solder my male adapter, let it cool, and then teflon tape and dope.

I also have 15",18", and 24" adjustable wrenches .......

no leaks

Unknown

Chris

I'll be doing your trick from now on . Funny thing is this is the only place where I see leaks form . Well , we do see the occasional dripper on the male adapters in the coil , but that's more to do with pressure buildup .

We've been seeing alot of paint buildup on the threads of the flanges . Sometimes theres so much you can't thread an adapter into it .

Unknown

I solder after

the fitting is in the flange , and we do get the occasional leaker from the heat loosening the adapter . But those we see immediately and fix . The problem I've been seeing happens on the other side of the circ also . I normally use a 14 inch on the adapters , with Teflon and Rectorseal on the threads - inner and outer . Bill , have you been seeing sloppy paint jobs on flanges lately ? Thanks .

Cosmo_3

WHAAAAT!!

I don't know if I was taught wrong, but I always had to solder the adapter, cool it down, then, and only then could I screw it into the threaded fitting. Now occasionally I admit that in a tight spot I will solder after threading, but only if I use Loctite #567 and keep a cool rag on the adapter.

For heavily painted circ flanges I just use the appropriately sized fitting brush on my Ridgid #122 copper prep machine to remove the heavy paint blobs on the inside threads. A "stitch in time" most definately applies when piping a boiler. Not a single leak yet doing this and using Loctite 567. On threads that look ugly I dope, then use Loctite #55 string. I also use the dope/tape/dope method if I can't find where that darn little container of the #55 string fell.

I always thought it was important to make sure that a copper male adapter was cool before threading into an iron fitting so as to make a tighter fit when things heated up.

I guess I am a bit of an old timer.

Cosmo Valavanis

Mark Hunt

Been a while


since I used those flanges but I had the same issues when I did.

Try this.

Take an old fitting brush and cut the handle off. Next time you get a set of flanges, put the fitting brush in your cordless drill and wire brush the snot out of the flange threads.

Tape and dope, tighten. You're done!

Mark H

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Paul Fredricks_3

Yes, JCA

Boy do I get wierd looks when I put #5 on first, then teflon. But in all the years I've been doing this, no problems. A thin coat of #5 too, not gobs. I haven't needed the extra layer of dope, though I could see the need in an older or damaged thread.

Brian_19

flanges

> where an adaptor or nipple threads into a circ

> flange ? I've seen this on a few jobs I went back

> to recently - everything is tight except that

> spot . I'm wondering if the paint on the inner

> threads of the flanges might cause a small weep ?

> I always paint the inner threads with sealant ,

> but that doesn't seem to stop the problem .





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Brian_19

flanges

I have had problems with taco flanges. It apears the flange is dipped in paint and builds up on threads. I always run a tap to clean the threads. I now use ball valve flanges from Boston Metal Products with my company name on them. They also have a set screw on top of the flange to bleed the air out when replacing a pump.
Also, I use their complete line of valves with custom handles. They are the the best import ball valve I have used. They put Watts to shame.

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hr

Why not sweat flanges?

There are a bunch available all the way to 1-1/2.

Saves time, labor, $$, and leak potential.

You can even bolt them to the pump then solder 'em in place to get perfect alignment.

hot rod

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Couderay

I use a pipe tap if paint is a problem,pipe dope,rector seal and a small nick of dope on the flange before treading the adapter yes i do solder it first and sweat flanges are better in my opinion. If they only made the flanges with more meat (thicker)it would cure a lot of them leaks. But remember tape and most if not all pipe dopes are lubricants if you dont believe that back out the fittings and where is the tape and or dope not where it should be thats why i nick the female fittings. I havent used tape in ages.

Jim Bennett

Thread Tap

I would run the appropriate sized tap through the threads first. The paint in the threads is only as good as the adhesion to the metal.

I always run a tap through hot water tank threads also. I run across many with rough threads and do not want to take chances.

As many of you are aware, the probability of a leak increases the closer you get to quitting time on Friday1

Jim

Jim Bennett

Thread Tap

I would run the appropriate sized tap through the threads first. The paint in the threads is only as good as the adhesion to the metal.

I always run a tap through hot water tank threads also. I run across many with rough threads and do not want to take chances.

As many of you are aware, the probability of a leak increases the closer you get to quitting time on Friday!

Jim

Unknown

We've been

soldering the adapters in the fittings for decades with no recurring problems until recently . And until recently we used flowvalves , which do not have paint on the inner threads most of the time . This is why I think the paint has something to do with it . I think the wet rag trick is a good idea . Thanks Cosmo .

Unknown

Mark

That's a great idea . I have a 3/4 tap I was going to start using , but the brush would work on other sizes too . Thanks man .

Unknown

They are

the green variety . They are being oversprayed so much that globs of paint will pool in the threads and in the bolt hole . Sometimes we need to punch the bolt through with a hammer . I'll take a few pics next time . Believe me , other than this issue with the flanges , we have had nothing but amazing success with their product line . We have changed boiler brands , oil burner brands , copper pipe , fittings , valves . But never have we thought of switching from Big Green .

Unknown

I brought that up

after you showed those pics the 1st time , Hot Rod . It would take the leaky adapter out of the equation , and every job is a transition to copper anyways . Hot Rod , do they sell those slip in pieces separately ? Do they fit through standard threaded flanges ? I think we get a set of flanges with each circ , so this option would be ideal . Thanks buddy .

JackFre

I'm with you on this Joe,

No telling how paint has pooled or set up in manuf. A thread chaser gets you down to the base metal which is what is going to make your joint anyway, with an assist to dope/tape.

Mitch_6

leaking flanges and spring checks

the taco flanges always have to be chased with a tap before installation I do not even try to install them until then.

Stadler spring checks leak to but it is not a clean out with the tape issue.

Typically I use liquid Teflon then tape. Paint first since when you screw it together and the tape comes off it takes the paint with it.

On my boiler manifolds especially the checks and flanges above I paint both the male and female threads then use lock tight thread it is like a combination of wicking and Teflon tape. No problems after that.

Mitch S.

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Reed

A used 1/2 or 3/4 brush with the handle nipped off and put in the drill to get the paint out and wick and Real-Tuff and I've never had a problem.

Dave Larsen_2

dope/tape /dope

My first boss always said " dope,tape,dope on a cool thread." He also said to tighten as much as you possibly can.......then give it another quarter turn! but seriously,
Hot Rod is going about it the right way. B & G, Webstone, Calleffi,Grundfos all make a sweat flange. It makes life much easier.

Mitch_6

What about

pro press coming out with a flange, auto feeder, flow check etc.

Mitch S.

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