Hanging pex tubing

jrc2905

When attaching pex tubing across the bottom of floor joists. Are there any code issues on this. If not, is there a "best" way to do this for looks and function. Thanks

Mark_46

Anxious

jcr2905,

good question. i dont have input to offer but i'm anxious to see other replys. i will be dealing with PEX installation in the same way in a week or two.

Paul Pollets

Suspended with transfer plates

I'd be considering installing aluminum transfer plates to wick the heat through the subfloors.

Suspended applications without using plates typically need 30-40% higher water temperatures. Some projects just won't heat properly without them, and there is a risk of warping the floors, unless there is due diligence in the design. I haven't seen any codes requiring the transfer plates, but I'd never install a system without them. I like the Uponor (Wirsbo) Joist Trak plates...heavy duty with high heat transfer. Uponor has an excellent technical manual for their design and installation.

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jrc2905

What I am talking about is the pex being strung from joist to joist. I don't want it to be used as a clothes line.

Mitch_6

Suspending pex

You could run a ledger board across like the electricians.

If I am running exposed pex I use the Fosta Pex fro Viege

You can also get it in 20' strait lengths looks just as

good as copper.

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kevin coppinger_4

code says...

pex needs to be supported every 30"(boca/international) ...energy code says that in heating applications that it also needs to be insulated...kpc

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Unknown

Hangin' da tubin'

Paul, I believe he's talking about fastening it to the bottoms of the floor joists to run from point A-to-B and not for space heating above or below.

I believe the code here in MA is every 30" for 1/2" PEX. That's not to say this is enough to keep it from looking like crap. I like to see PEX attached to evry joist. Tube tallons work very well for this but my pneumatic staple gun makes it easy & does it more efficiently than tallons. The plastic suspension "Micky Mouse" clips also work very well and allow the pipe to slide nicely without any noises. Remember to leave room for expansion as per Mfg. instructions.

If I've got a whole bunch, I cut short pieces (1"-2") of 3" or 4" PVC pipe and use one big clip for the PVC evry 30" or so. We use them as large Dia. sleeves and run the PEX in bundles through them.

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EJW

pex

Pex looks much better when you drill thru joists and pull. You can't make it look decent by hanging it off them, no matter how many hangers you have.

EJW

[Deleted User]

My interpretation...

is probably different than everyone elses, but if code requires that it be fastened every 30 inches, that WILL require a banter board run at a right angle to the joists, and then the tubing installed on that and nailed every 30 inches, because if you try nailing it to every other joist that were installed 16" OC, it won't meet code (32" OC).

So, either figure on putting in a banter board (PITA) or nail it every joist.

BTW, FWIW, you're not planning on using these suspended tubes as intentional heat emmiters are you? Just distribution, right....

ME

Mike Thomas_2

I assume you must be talking about hot and cold water lines. I use 4 inch dwv pipe and strap that to floor joists, then thread the pipe through. Leave a gap or cut a hole with a hole saw where ever you want an line to exit.