Isynene and staple up

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we use the heavy gauge aluminum transfer plates for our installations.

By staple up I generally think of the bare tube suspended below or against the floor.

I'd recommend transfer plates for best thermal exchange. I did contact the tubing manufacture and supply them a list of the chemicals in the spray foam used.

hot rod

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John_56

Icynene and staple up

This may be a dumb question, but has anyone done a staple up under the subfloor and then have it sprayed with icynene? I know you need to insulate under a staple up, but I am a little concerned with the possible noise with the PEX "trapped" in the foam. Thanks in advance.

JohnP

Wayco Wayne

I agree,

If using suspended tubing only, you need an air space under the sub floor of about 2 inches. The reason being the tubing is heating the air under the floor, not the floor. The air then eventually warms the floor. You can see that this method gives far less capacity than joist trak plates which inject the sub floor with heat directly. If using the foam with the suspended tube you would need to contain the air space before you spray the foam. I use a product called Thermo-pan which is marketed for making return duct spaces in floor joists. If interested I could post a picture. WW

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GH

STAPLE UP

Staple up is like building a performance race car with
the best technology then driving it on the rims.

Wayco Wayne

Yabut!

If you do a heat load and don't need plates, why spend the money for them? If you don't spend the money unnecessarily you could put money in your race car. (Don't get me wrong I prefer plates, but have done without when the engineering says I can.) Why spend the money for a race car when you only need to commute? WW

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Ted_9

This is true Wayco Wayne, but if you take that same space and use the plates, it should require a lower water temp and there by saving more on fuel costs.

I know that you know this, I'm just continuing the disscusion.

PATRIOT HEATING & COOLING, INC.

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Weezbo

i dislike tremco or any goop or foam on the pipes...

to seal the holes around pipes and wires is a good idea to decrease the potential for stack effects and small skinny mice crawling about the building..however i sometimes wrap plastic grocery bags around the pipe before it is spray foamed, low temps are the only way to really go. i have no particular liking for staple ups in general. bathroom floors and the like i spin in sometimes just to balance out some btus in that area...i'd prefer though to go with the cypcrete....and the bekoteck job that was posted and some product wirsbo sweden has i think really would be the very best application for low temps and fast ramping ...3/8" in 5/8" seems to be hanging in there pretty good for me...then you can foam the bottom of the floor to the depth of the nearest wires...i am not liking foaming wires either...to me if it was supposed to be foamed it would say on the jacket of the wire ..FOam the be jeezzus outa this wire .:)

Wayco Wayne

Yeah Ted

It's true that the water temps are lower with plates and that's especially beneficial if you have a condensing boiler. Even if you don't have a condensing boiler you can save some on the lower temps if you have good controls that take advantage of it and reset the boiler temps accordingly. I always recommend plates but sometimes people that can't afford a system with plates can afford a staple up even if it is a floor warming system rather than a floor heating system. WW

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