Insultarp

Bruce in Wisconsin

sheet faxed to me from "THE COMPANY". I'm not sure what this test standard really means so if any one can enlighten me i'd appreciate it. So here goes...ASTMC518-91 effective R-value (3/8") 5.87. ASTMC518-91 effective R-value (1/2") 10.1 . Permeability rating .002 G/M2/24 hrs, ASTME-96 with bubble pack. Temp range -60 to 180 degrees. Burst strength 10 psi ASTM D-751.73 mullen. These results are from a certified independent testing laboratory. I started using tarp a few years ago on my own shop and had good results even though my perimeter is a little iffy (what's that about the cobblers wife and her shoes? ). I really have a lot of confidence in the 2" foam and I suppose my mind is eased a bit with the above information but I have had some issues with product quality consistency. Over all I guess the tarp has proved itself to me as we have so far had no issues related to tarp installation and we do use a lot of it. Winters in northern Wisconsin tend to test systems a bit. See ya in Denver!

Wayco Wayne

What's the latest

on Insultarp?? First I hear it's the greatest thing since sliced bread, then I hear otherwise, then I hear it has been vindicated. I like it because it's easier to install over gravel than syrofoam, but I don't want to be short sighted on the long term benefits either. ??????? I got 2 jobs coming up that I would use it on normally. I need to make a decision. I must say that so far when I've used it it seems to work fine. Whazzup? WW

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

hr

Consider

that InsulTarp does a better job of conforming to rough grade, does provide a very good vapor barrier, and is a lot easier to install. It does not break up or leave hollow spots underneath like foamboard on rocks or uneven grade.

They tell me it is termite proof which is a bid deal in my area. Termites and ants seem attracted to warm habitat. But they do need a water sourse nearby. The termite eaten foam samples I have are from wet location foamboard installations.

That leaves, in my mind, the only bugaboo the true R value. I would have to agree with the R-1 to R-2 equal.

I will say the InsulTarp seems to be the best of the bunch as it has several layers of closed cell foam and two heavytarps on both sides to protect the "innards". I would not trust the basic bubble, with or without foil!

Consider a 4 foot wide band of 1-1/2- 2" foamboard around the perimeter and edge detail, then the InsulTarp inside where the lose is not as great, as a compromise. I've done a number of installs this way.

By far the greatest loss is that perimeter band area, and especially the edge of slab detail (on grade). This is where you need the quality and quanity of R value.

hot rod

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Mark Eatherton1

I like their recent ads in P&M Magazine....

Reflects 97-1/2 percent of radiant energy BACK to the source...

Tell me this, how much radiant energy do you figure is occuring on the bottom of the slab? My guess is ZERO!!!

It MIGHT reflect that percentage of radiant energy when it's hanging vertical in a stud wall, but underneath 4" of concrete... GIVE ME A BREAK.

I'd give it an R2 to3 at best, and less when compressed under the weight of concrete.

Sometimes, if you believe in something strong enough, PFM happens and all the worlds ills go away...

Keep your faith in proven R value Wayne. Avoid smoke and "mirrors":-)

ME

steve gates

so how can anything radiate backup when there is no gap? I ain't that smart to figure some stuff out but if radiant is a wave then how can a wave start?

And I still want to know what happens to the bubbles when the air leaks out?

Wayco Wayne

I have used

insultarp in the past. When you take it apart there are sheets of reflective material with sheets of bubble meatrial inside of it. I always thought that the bubbles were there to provide the air space in front of the foil for the reflectabilty factor. Am I gullible? Perhaps. For instance I still believe the Redskins can return to greatness. (Heavy sigh). WW

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Unknown

yeah, it's not really adequate for that.

If it's a choice between insultarp and nothing, put in the insultarp. It will cut your losses 50% or so over no insulation.

If you're looking for the best value though, use something that *really* works.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

RojoHo_3

quality control

> on Insultarp?? First I hear it's the greatest

> thing since sliced bread, then I hear otherwise,

> then I hear it has been vindicated. I like it

> because it's easier to install over gravel than

> syrofoam, but I don't want to be short sighted on

> the long term benefits either. ??????? I got 2

> jobs coming up that I would use it on normally. I

> need to make a decision. I must say that so far

> when I've used it it seems to work fine. Whazzup?

> WW

>

> _A

> HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=

> 255&Step=30"_To Learn More About This

> Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in

> "Find A Professional"_/A_



My biggest complaint about insultarp is quality control. The "innards" don't always reach the edges, or they may be folded over and bunched in some places. I chose it because of termite concerns and it serves as a vapor barrier. Neverthe less, I'm putting 2" styrofoam on all exterior edges. We'll see how well the whole system performs when it's too late!

RojoHo_3

poor quality control

My biggest complaint about insultarp is quality control. The "innards" don't always reach the edges, or they may be folded over and bunched in some places. And it is a tedious pain in the butt to tape edges when you have odd widths or corners, I chose it because of termite concerns, our moderate S.F area climate, and it serves as a vapor barrier. I'm putting 2" styrofoam on all exterior edges. We'll see how well the whole system performs when it's too late!

Weezbo

i dunno,to me,any insulation is better than No insulation...

having said that it doesnt really dawn on someone looking at cost numbers in the here and now just how spending more money is going to make things work better in the long run....thats not what people want to hear..it is as though a curtain draws down around the inside of thier Brain cell and "dial this info out" starts throbbing in the brain.too bad really because it really costs far more in the long run. i figure like this ,well we pay once and we have this,we dont and we have zilch... to me putting some water resitant barrier (oil absorbant pad) would be cheaper and more effective in the long run with insulation of the perimiters that is even better,with insulation downwards along the edge...thats even better,with insulation aroud the apron beneath the ground a couple feet at an angle down and away from the building thats even better..insulation of the walls is good however a vapor barrier on the walls and the same insulation in the ceiling is even betterand as one goes along insulating things like plates and the like then new products that are made of composite materials are even better then maybe if you wanted a cheap structure you could take a huge skin wait for freezing cold weather and spray water on it un till it froze only bad part about that is summer time might throw you a bit of a curve...because THEN You have to work like a dog to put it all back together again...and save up enough money to heat the place the next winter...its a good way to stay Active looking at the bright side of things...i have R 71 in the lid i am thinking of blasting my home with this ceramic stuff locked into the plaster and lay it on real heavy...i think that will give me like R 78 in the walls and R 127 in the lid *~/:) maybe i burn the place down and build a new one....smaller with a huge garage with Relative no heat just shelter from the weather and R 256 ceilings and R 125 in the ground and R 150 in the walls...to heck with the oil companies pocket book. what they going to do with all the money and wasted time and potential they have aleviated us out of over our lives anyway ? maybe if i slow the heat loss enough i can aquaint myself with a dollar over time

Unknown

AFAIK, those effective R-values are only applicable when you actually are able to use the reflective properties, which does not happen under slabs.

RIMA and others had tests done last year that show that these products are only an R1 or R2 under a slab. That is still much better than not having insulation at all, but it's not in the same league as foam.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"