Heat Exchanger installation

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would be to build a primary loop. Connect the gas fired to this loop with closely spaced tees. Same for the wood fired HX and the pump to supply the baseboard.

It's important to keep the piping PS so you don't ever flow heat from the gas fired boiler to the outside furnace.

Also no sense in flowing heat from the wood fired through the gas fired (off line) boiler.

With P/S piping you get a good handle on all the various inputs.

If the outdoor is an unpressurized type furnace, keep that circ mounted as low as possible. This will help to keep that circ from cavitating, since it is not under pressure other than the water column above it from the furnace.


A few setpoint or differential controls will be needed to wire the deal.

Hope this helps.

hot rod

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LD Edelman

Heatexchanger Installation

Can someone please help me with an answer to the below question

Thanks
Larry

Thanks, Larry, I'm in Hawaii this month (the benefits of being in a
cyber-business) and not able to post any sketches. If you ask on the Wall at
www.heatinghelp.com one of the others will be able to help.

Dan


Quoting Larry Edelman :

> Dear Dan 02-12-06
>
> I have been reading and studying your books "Pumping
> Away" and "Primary SecondaryPumping Made Easy" I have
> learned a tremendous amount for which I am greatful. I
> have been in the HVAC business for over 30 years and
> must admit I have learned alot from reading
> your books and in fact I feel guilty for doing so
> many customers a dis-service due to my lack of
> knowledge. After studying your books I feel much more
> qualfied than I did however I now have a job hooking
> up an and outside wood fired boiler in conjunction
> with a gas fired residential boiler in the house. I
> plan to use a tube and shell heat exchanger to
> interface the two boilers togather. The exhisting gas
> boiler is very typical and is providing hot water to
> base board
> fintube heaters and the system is a single zone system
> and heat controlin the house is accomplished by
> cycling the circulating pump piped improperly in the
> return line at the boiler. My purpose in writing you
> is to request your reccomendations for hooking in the
> heatexchanger as I don't recall any diagrams where you
> address this type application.
> If you would please sketch a simple line diagraham and
> any comments you might have. If you would I would
> appreciate it much and want to thank you in advance.
>

Ed_26

heat exchanger

I would use a 'brazed plate' heat exchanger,because they are more efficient.(www.flatplate.com)

Blackoakbob

sounds like perfect place....

for the Taco X-Pump Block, separate fluid paths, pumps, kinda plug and play. The expense would be offset by the ease and speed of installation. Check it out for a very compact solution to your requirements. Best Regards.

Larry Savino

From a heating contractor who is also involved in the hearth products industries,

Not all wood burning stoves/boilers are created equal.

Unfortunately in our society ,as soon as anything goes wrong and a lawyer gets involved anybody who did anything is being drawn into court,

That being said make sure you understand the liability you and your company are assuming when you pipe this unit in,

We wont install them,we wont wire them,we wont sell them.

The only advice I will give you is that you have to protect what ever heat exchanger your using on the boiler side from freezing and that can be done with a free a stat on the heat exchanger.Image if the wood boiler piping is circulating and there is no fire in it,you could be sending in less then 32 degree water from the wood boiler into the heat exchanger the wood boiler piping is normally protected with an anti freeze but the boiler side is not.

You really have to think your control wiring carefully so you dont have this problem. The best way to do it with a loop for the entire house then the 2 boilers are set up like a lead lag boiler injecting into the primary loop and the wood boiler being the primary boiler.on the wood boiler side of the heat exchanger as long as the return pipe back to the boiler is at least a certain temperature (Maybee 90 degrees)the wood boiler stays the primary boiler because we assume it still has a fire in it. As soon as it drops below 85 (depending what type of a controller you use and what its differential is) you fire up the fossil fuel boiler and lock the wood boiler out of the mix.You could also fire an alarm to tell the home owner that the wood burner has lost or is losing its fire.

Good luck with it. Study the control circuit carefully.

Boilerpro_3

Take a lok at tekmar's 363 control

It is designed for this application and you can find wiring diagrams and piping diagrams on thier site.

Boilerpro

ALH_4

Yup

The 363 is the injection control of choice for this application.

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-Andrew