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Sizing new steam boiler
JK_3
Member Posts: 240
Dan's book EDR ratings for every radiator would be very helpfull but even if your plumber is very good not having experience with residential steam heating systems could prove to be a problem as there is much more to it then just sizing the right boiler. there is much to understand to make a steam system installation work right.You should find a professional through this site and hope that your plumber understands that for some things we seek out the specialists.
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Comments
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Sizing a steam boiler
Hello, I am replacing my 1931 steam boiler at my house this spring to convert from oil to gas. My home is roughly 1400 square feet. I will be using Burnham equipment as that is what the gas company offers as a benefit for converting to gas fuel. I am having difficulty determining what size boiler to order. The literature I have seen tells me to calculate the quare feet of steam for each radiator by measuring the radiator height, number of section, and number of tubes. Nothing I have found has given me a formula to make this calculation though. I have 8 radiators:
Height Sections Tubes
36" 6 12
37" 9 18
38" 6 18
25" 8 16
37" 4 8
37" 4 8
37" 7 14
36" 6 12
Can anyone point me in the right direction here? How do I make this calculation? What other factors are considered when sizing the boiler? I live in New England, it is a one pipe steam system and the pipes are not insulated (yet). Thanks for any help. I have a great plumber to install this but he has little experience with residential steam systems though. Thanks in advance!0 -
Two good places to look
This very web site under "SHOP" has a book called "EDR" (every darn radiator), which I find invaluable.
For short-hand use, the Burnham web site has a Heating Helper in PDF format which has some good obsolete radiator sizing data.
Number of tubes, height, section c-c dimensions, type of tubes are all pertinent. If you are unsure of the type ("Fero" "Column" etc.) check several that are close in dimension and triangulate. Often they are close.
I chart them on a spreadsheet to save time but you can figure that out I am sure, even long-hand.
You are right and wise to size based on the EDR method, not heat loss. But both numbers are always good to know.0 -
Free boiler
Just to let you know nothings free..... Buy the best equitment and intaller you can find.0 -
Agreed,
but we also have a joint opportunity here to herd along this "plumber" (Greg's term but let's assume basic qualifications as a pipefitter), make him knowledgeable about steam and turn him into a steamhead/wethead in the best way.
Greg is willing to work with and apply steam correctly. He might do well to find a pro and start from scratch with another, but if Greg has confidence to stick with one he knows, everyone benefits: The contractor gains guided knowledge, there is an apparent loyalty between the contractor and HO (that be you, Greg ) and the number of steam practictioners increases with improved skills.
Not discounting what you are saying, JK, just seizing the opportunity!
My $0.02,
Brad0 -
Brad
You are right and being that this is not an emergency then time could be spent learning . The more professionals that understand how to do steam right the easier it becomes to have consumers that understand this. Also the free boiler is not free from my understanding it is only discounted a few hundred dollars and they only give a couple of options. I have had to install quite a few of these because the cust did no twant to understand that there was other equiptment better suited to thier needs and usually say that they are not going to be in the house long enough for the fuel savings to cover the increased installation costs. I don't like doing this but I do like making sure that my daughters get to enjoy their childhood.
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Amen to that!
If it were an emergency, absolutely find a pro, skip the learning curve and get her done right. And the utility boilers? I have seen too many which had me say, "do they still sell those?
Given the time to next heating season as you astutely pointed out, let's see if we can make another Wallie here too while we are at it.
Your other job, that of being a dad to daughters, cannot be overstated. Your priorities are well in order. Hug 'em daily.
Brad0 -
Excellent
Since being introduced to this site I have been enlightened in many area's as well as finding forgotten facts in my own mind to share with others and someone else with a thirst would probably bring more of the same. As far as my daughters, there is no greater payoff for all that I do than their hugs and kisses and the "I love you daddy" that we share every day.I am the luckiest dad in the world.
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sizing
As the others suggested the main topic is to start with your edr, if you get a book suggested this is pretty easy. If you post pictures of your rads and list them again by how many col. and how many sections along with height and a picture someone here will tell you the number. Burnham is a good boiler, the key will be to get your plumber to install it like the install picture, you can't imagine how often that's NOT done. Then to skim the boiler after the install, again very important and seldom done. Then you get all the main pitch checked and insulated, spend about $300 on new main and rad vents and be ready for next winter. You will get a vent damper and elect. ign. You should pay for a second lwco for safety but it's not required.0 -
all those prevoius
All the above posts are coorected, I myself a plumber AND boiler man.. I've seen too often that heating systems are ruined and dangerous done by plumbers thinking pipes are just pipes... Get a real boiler pros... I have been given boiler jobs by other plumbers that know to say away from it...0 -
Greg, I see a red flag here
your quote: "that is what the gas company offers as a benefit for converting to gas fuel".
Since you're in New England, your gas supplier is probably Keyspan or whatever they're calling themselves now. They and some other companies have a pattern of pushing for boiler replacements and even offering free boilers to get people to convert. Then once enough people have converted, the price of the gas goes way up. At that point you're screwed, since you can't convert the typical gas boiler to oil (some manufacturers do support converting their oil-designed boilers to gas).
BTW, natural gas is no longer regulated in most areas like it used to be- only the utility's piping network is. They can charge what they want for the gas, and you can't do anything about it.
Look carefully at the cost per BTU of oil vs. gas in your area. A "therm" of gas contains 100,000 BTU, a gallon of #2 oil contains 140,000. Don't forget to include all the little taxes and fees that the gas company doesn't want you to consider (ever wonder why they're in such small print?). Then think about what you'd pay if gas went up 50%-100%.
On the other hand, oil companies are in direct competition which tends to keep prices lower. And a new oil burner that is properly set up will not soot up your boiler- period. Ask me how I know that.
There's not a thing wrong with Burnham boilers. That is one of my favorite brands. And whatever fuel you use, a new boiler will be much more efficient than anything from 1931. But you need to consider ALL the facts before deciding what fuel to use.
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Is Free really free
First all of the responses are excellent. The gas company is giving you a free boiler to get your business. What kind of service are you getting, your choice of boilers from a list, no professional help from them. How about service? Ok, it is often said gas doesn't need service like oil, really? An improperly operating steam boiler is a potential bomb in the basement, it should be serviced annually just to be sure the safeties are working properly. I am not anti steam as that is what I have in my own home. Good luck and keep seeking answers.
Leo0 -
Proper piping
If you gas ulitity is doing the change out please for your own sake make sure the manafactors piping sizing is at a mimuin meet or exceeded also replace your main and raditor vents also make sure that your main vents are allready properly sized and located in your system last but not least that upon completion that your boiler is skimmed and clean and if there are wet returns that they are in good condition if not have them clean or replaced and on another note make a request to have the plugs that are located on the boiler water side removed and replaced with nipples and caps to ease future bottom side cleaning of mud that will aclumate there .Ps are your steam pipes insulated also .peace and the best of luck clammyR.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
NJ Master HVAC Lic.
Mahwah, NJ
Specializing in steam and hydronic heating0
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