Beckett Heat Manager

Jason_15

It sounds like a great product in theory, so I installed one on my boiler. I verified that it was wired properly, etc. I have never been able to catch it in the "economizing" mode even 1 time. And I have spent some time watching. The boiler seems to run exactly as it had before this product was added. The unit registers input from the sensor, and the LED's all change to indicate status, etc. But it literally has done absolutely nothing to change the boilers firing habits. This is a single zone copper fin tube baseboard system with a Crown 100K btu oil pin type boiler that is 50% oversized at least. It should do something??????

[Deleted User]

Beckett Heat Manager

What are your thoughts on the Beckett Heat Manager?

Any advice would be helpful.

Thank you.

Robert O'Brien

I've installed quite a few with a only couple minor problems.It basically does what it's supposed to.I also have one in my own house that spends quite a bit of time in the economizing mode

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Robert O'Brien

Heat Manager

Jason,why don't you give Beckett a call @ 1 800 OIL-BURN? Maybe you have a problem with the unit,sensor or wiring?

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John@Reliable_10

Jason, If your system is that over.................

sized you may be better off going true outdoor reset and bypass piping at the boiler. I think you could see some real fuel savings.

Jason_15

Robert

Thanks. I'll give beckett a call. Do you have a multi zone system? I was just thinking that a small zone only calling would not dump heat so fast, thus lots of economizing time. Whereas with mine the whole house is one zone (1600 sq. ft.) Even so, this time of year I know I'm not losing much heat.....

REF

Heat Manager

IF your customer doesn't save at least 10% they get their money back. We have sold a ton of them. I did have one bad out of the box, and Beckett made good very quickly. You have to be on the ball from a wiring stand point. The first few may take 3/4 hour, but they are worth the time for both you and the customer. Especially when fuel is going up up and away. They have nice literature to help you sell them. I try to calculate pay back for my customers to help them see the value. Hope this helps.

Respectfully,
REF

Mike E_2

My experience = Bad

I have a oil-fired multi-zone setup with zone valves. I installed a Heatmanager last fall. During normal operation, it economized for about 6-8 minutes before firing. This was with an aquastat setting of 180 high, 20 diff. But after about 4 days of use, the unit started to lock out and prevent the burner from firing. Some times all the lights would be dark, and the burner wouldn't be allowed to fire. Other times the Standby light was still on, even though the aquastat was calling for heat.

I called Beckett (who were very nice and helpful) and they said they were having problems with some units, and had a redesigned unit going through beta testing and should be ready in 2 weeks. They sent one out after that time, and I got it hooked up, and guess what. Yup, after 2 days it started locking out again.

I just couldn't trust the unit anymore, as I was afraid to leave my house for any extended period of time, so I returned the unit and got a refund.

Also, I am over-radiated in my house, so I tried to run lower water temperatures. If I turned the aquastat any lower than 170 high(20 diff), it would economize for 1 minute or less before firing. The lowest temp it can see at the sensor and still economize properly is about 160.


Basically all the Heatmanager does is to create a larger differential. In my testing, I had my aquastat set for 180 high, and a 20 diff. The Heatmanager would let it go 7 degrees lower than that. So it ended up firing at 153.

If you have an aquastat that is capable of a 25 - 30 differential, you really wouldn't benefit from the HeatManager.

Just my opinion,

Michael

JOHN_103

HEATMANAGER

I HAVE 5 ZONES IN MY HOUSE ALL SMALL AVERAGE ABOUT 20 FEET SLANTFIN 30A. I RUN MY LIMITS AT 150-180 AND 15 DEG DIFF. ON THE LOW,IT ECONOMIZES UP TO 10 MIN ON EVERY CALL FOR HEAT,NO LOCK OUTS YET IN ONE FULL SEASON,KNOCK ON WOOD BUT KNOW OF ALOT THAT HAVE LOCKED OUT.WAS TOLD BECKETT BEEF THEM UP TO HANDLE VOLTAGE SWINGS.

JPY

My experience = Bad

Quote:
"Michael If you have an aquastat that is capable of a 25 - 30 differential, you really wouldn't benefit from the HeatManager".

By setting an aquastat differential to 25 - 30 degrees, that diferential is constant, meaning it will always be the same whether it is needed or not.

The HeatManager monitors the temperature at the boiler supply pipe 3 times a second, constantly recalculating a new start point for the burner.

The HeatManager supply temperature sensor "watches" the rate of decline (temperature drop) at the supply pipe...how fast or how slow is this temperature changing. By doing this, it now knows the load on the boiler.

It will also recogonize if another zone calls ie: the temperature was dropping at a steady rate, another zone comes on and that rate of decline is now faster. The HeatManager might have decided to let the burner fire at 150 degrees F., but now due to the change in the rate of decline, it has calculated that it must start the boiler at 158 degrees F.

The rate of decline is directly proportional to the heat load at that moment in time. By holding the burner from firing, burner cycling is reduced resulting in slightly longer, more efficient burn times.

Holding a burner from firing by using a wide differential results in more in-efficiency due to the low start point all of the time. Adjustments like this can damage a boiler, and at the same time by the time the aquastat reacts and allows the burner to fire, the boiler temperaure could be way too low...anything you tried to save is now lost because the burner has to "play catch-up".

If you need more assistance, please e-mail me at:
jpy@intellidynellc.com

respectfully,
JP Yonelunas
Manager, Technical Support
IntellidyneLLC

JPY

My experience = Bad

Quote:
"Michael If you have an aquastat that is capable of a 25 - 30 differential, you really wouldn't benefit from the HeatManager".

By setting an aquastat differential to 25 - 30 degrees, that diferential is constant, meaning it will always be the same whether it is needed or not.

The HeatManager monitors the temperature at the boiler supply pipe 3 times a second, constantly recalculating a new start point for the burner.

The HeatManager supply temperature sensor "watches" the rate of decline (temperature drop) at the supply pipe...how fast or how slow is this temperature changing. By doing this, it now knows the load on the boiler.

It will also recogonize if another zone calls ie: the temperature was dropping at a steady rate, another zone comes on and that rate of decline is now faster. The HeatManager might have decided to let the burner fire at 150 degrees F., but now due to the change in the rate of decline, it has calculated that it must start the boiler at 158 degrees F.

This "rate of decline" is directly proportional to the heat load on the boiler, (how fast is the BTU shedrate).
By holding the burner from firing, burner cycling is reduced resulting in slightly longer, more efficient burn times.

Holding a burner from firing by using a wide differential results in more in-efficiency due to the low start point all of the time. Adjustments like this can damage a boiler, and by the time the aquastat reacts and allows the burner to fire, the boiler temperaure could be way too low...anything you tried to save is now lost because the burner has to "play catch-up".

If you need more assistance, please reference this posting and e-mail me at:
jpy@intellidynellc.com

respectfully,
JP Yonelunas
Manager, Technical Support
IntellidyneLLC

JPY

My experience = Bad

Quote:
"Michael If you have an aquastat that is capable of a 25 - 30 differential, you really wouldn't benefit from the HeatManager".

By setting an aquastat differential to 25 - 30 degrees, that diferential is constant, meaning it will always be the same whether it is needed or not.

The HeatManager monitors the temperature at the boiler supply pipe 3 times a second, constantly recalculating a new start point for the burner.

The HeatManager supply temperature sensor "watches" the rate of decline (temperature drop) at the supply pipe...how fast or how slow is this temperature changing. By doing this, it now knows the load on the boiler.

It will also recogonize if another zone calls ie: the temperature was dropping at a steady rate, another zone comes on and that rate of decline is now faster. The HeatManager might have decided to let the burner fire at 150 degrees F., but now due to the change in the rate of decline, it has calculated that it must start the boiler at 158 degrees F.

This "rate of decline" is directly proportional to the heat load on the boiler, (how fast or slow is the BTU shed-rate).
By holding the burner from firing, burner cycling is reduced resulting in slightly longer, more efficient burn times.

Holding a burner from firing by using a wide differential results in more in-efficiency due to the low start point all of the time. Adjustments like this can damage a boiler, and by the time the aquastat reacts and allows the burner to fire, the boiler temperaure could be way too low...anything you tried to save is now lost because the burner has to "play catch-up".

If you need more assistance, please reference this posting and e-mail me at:
jpy@intellidynellc.com

respectfully,
JP Yonelunas
Manager, Technical Support
IntellidyneLLC

JPY

My experience = Bad

Quote:
"Michael If you have an aquastat that is capable of a 25 - 30 differential, you really wouldn't benefit from the HeatManager".

By setting an aquastat differential to 25 - 30 degrees, that diferential is constant, meaning it will always be the same whether it is needed or not.

The HeatManager monitors the temperature at the boiler supply pipe 3 times a second, constantly recalculating a new start point for the burner.

The HeatManager supply temperature sensor "watches" the rate of decline (temperature drop) at the supply pipe...how fast or how slow is this temperature changing. By doing this, it now knows the load on the boiler.

It will also recogonize if another zone calls ie: the temperature was dropping at a steady rate, another zone comes on and that rate of decline is now faster. The HeatManager might have decided to let the burner fire at 150 degrees F., but now due to the change in the rate of decline, it has calculated that it must start the boiler at 158 degrees F.

This "rate of decline" is directly proportional to the heat load on the boiler, (how fast or slow is the BTU shed-rate).
By holding the burner from firing, burner cycling is reduced resulting in slightly longer, more efficient burn times.

Holding a burner from firing by using a wide differential results in even more efficiency loss due to the low start point all of the time.
Adjustments like this can damage a boiler, and by the time the aquastat reacts and allows the burner to fire, the boiler temperaure could be way too low...anything you tried to save is now lost because the burner has to "play catch-up".

If you need more assistance, please reference this posting and e-mail me at:
jpy@intellidynellc.com

respectfully,
JP Yonelunas
Manager, Technical Support
IntellidyneLLC

JPY

My experience = Bad

Quote:
"Michael If you have an aquastat that is capable of a 25 - 30 differential, you really wouldn't benefit from the HeatManager".

By setting an aquastat differential to 25 - 30 degrees, that diferential is constant, meaning it will always be the same whether it is needed or not.

The HeatManager monitors the temperature at the boiler supply pipe 3 times a second, constantly recalculating a new start point for the burner.

The HeatManager supply temperature sensor "watches" the rate of decline (temperature drop) at the supply pipe...how fast or how slow is this temperature changing. By doing this, it now knows the load on the boiler.

It will also recogonize if another zone calls ie: the temperature was dropping at a steady rate, another zone comes on and that rate of decline is now faster. The HeatManager might have decided to let the burner fire at 150 degrees F., but now due to the change in the rate of decline, it has calculated that it must start the boiler at 158 degrees F.

This "rate of decline" is directly proportional to the heat load on the boiler, (how fast or slow is the BTU shed-rate).
By holding the burner from firing, burner cycling is reduced resulting in slightly longer, more efficient burn times.

Holding a burner from firing by using a wide differential results in even more efficiency loss due to the low start point all of the time.
Adjustments like this can damage a boiler, and by the time the aquastat reacts and allows the burner to fire, the boiler temperaure could be way too low...anything you tried to save is now lost because the burner has to "play catch-up".

If you need more assistance, please reference this posting and e-mail me at:
jpy@intellidynellc.com

Respectfully,
JP Yonelunas
Manager, Technical Support
IntellidyneLLC

JPY

HeatManager

Jason,
You say you have never seen the HeatManager in the Economizing Mode.
1.Is this a cold start boiler?
2.If not and it maintains temperature, what are the
aquastat settings?
3.Does the boiler supply Domestic Hot Water and what method
(internal coil, indirect fired, etc.)?
4. Is this a "low mass" type boiler?
5. Please explain the boiler set-up and operation.

Respectfully
JP Yonelunas
Manager Technical Support
IntellidyneLLC

JPY

HeatManager

Jason,
You say you have never seen the HeatManager in the Economizing Mode.
1.Is this a cold start boiler?
2.If not and it maintains temperature, what are the
aquastat settings?
3.Does the boiler supply Domestic Hot Water and what method
(internal coil, indirect fired, etc.)?
4. Is this a "low mass" type boiler?
5. Please explain the boiler set-up and operation.

Respectfully
JP Yonelunas
Manager Technical Support
IntellidyneLLC

Joe Moody

Heat Manager

We have sold many Heatmanagers in the last 12 months. This is a great product that does work when operating properly in the correct application. An outdoor reset control controls the temperature in your house based on outdoor temperature. Who cares if it is hot or cold outside, your inside temperature should be the temperature that is being monitored. The Heatmanger is reacting to the indoor temperature. As discussed earlier in this thread a few of the original models had some minor issues. If you have a Heat Manager that you think may not be working correctly I would suggest calling Beckett. They have stood behind this product 100%. Any warranty we have had they have reacted to quiclky to make sure the end user is satisfied.