Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

heat loss for stresskin panels

jwade55_2
jwade55_2 Member Posts: 21
in several of these, both radiant and scorched air systems. As others have mentioned equipment sizing is critical, as well as ventilation, where is this project?

J

Comments

  • pumpdude2
    pumpdude2 Member Posts: 16
    heat loss in stresskin panels

    I am doing a heating job in a house built with stresskin panels. I had several heat losses done. The manufacturer of the panels claims a major mistake with these houses is oversizing the heating system. Is there a difference and if so, how is it calculated?
  • Ron Schroeder
    Ron Schroeder Member Posts: 998
    I have only been involved with one

    and everyone oversized as noone would believe how effiecnt they are and lack of air infiltration, hope you can find someone that can figure it right for you. The guy installed it himself and only had two out of five panel rads installed the first winter and it heated fine. There was base board in other rooms but just the same they heat and hold heat well.
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    Do you mean SIPs?

    The manufacture should provide an R-value. No studs for thermal bridging either! Infiltration is very low.

    The loads should be un-believably low, I'm not sure about not making the load with staple up? Lots of glass perhaps? Regardless, I would stick with the transfer plates.

    Bid it with a modulating boiler to help with potential sizing error.

    Cooling contractors around here are missing the load also. cold humid homes, yuck!

    Consider an air exchange system also. I think ASHRAE has a new standard for a guidline.

    hot rod

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • It R what it R...

    That oughta wake up ol' Canasty Pete eh...

    Whatever the load calcs come out to, and they WILL be minimal, that's what you need in the way of heat input to take care of the load regardless of wether you're coming from on top of the floor or below the floor.

    If it were me, I'd do it from the ceiling, this way you don't have to explain why it is that the floor doesn't feel warm everywhere...

    Technically speaking, with a low load factor, you wouldn't need to cover every square foot of floor with tube, other than keeping peoples footsies warm and toasty, which may cause energy waste, just for the sake of warm feet.

    Warm feet and overall human comfort are not one in the same. People get that confused. Raising the Mean Radiant Temperature from any source, be it wall, floor, ceiling, countertops, or radiators is the key to comfort. Not just radiant floors...

    The house is going to be tighter than a ducks butt in January on a frozen pond. Make sure you include air to air HXer in your human comfort package.

    JM$0.02W

    ME
  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,644
    just for reference...

    I built a 1650 square foot SIPs house. It has 8" walls 10" floors and 12" roof. Heat loss calculated to 28K btu, but seems to be much less ;~)

    Yours, Larry
This discussion has been closed.