Olsen Duomatic won't relight

Darin(in Michigan)

I'm with John. If the burner turns on and off while the blower runs constantly, you have a prime candidate for an oversized furnace or under sized ductwork. Either way, airflow is a problem and the unit is cycling on limit. Find the filters or, if they don't exist, you may have a plugged secondary heat exchanger or if you have AC, a plugged A coil.

Bob North

Olsen Duomatic won't relight, no power?

Amateur, but technical person here with a question...Last night I realized my furnace wasn't lighting but was making clicking ignition noises. This morning I removed the AC, closed the inline gas valve and closed the Honeywell control valve to off. Then I removed the pilot and pipe mechanism coming from the control unit and cleaned the tip real good and re-installed the pilot. I opened the main valve, then the control valve, and plugged in the AC. Now, not only are no automatic ignition noises coming from the unit, but even the blower fan doesn't come on when switching from the thermostat. Is there a reset switch I can't see somewhere, or any ideas on why I'm not seeing power? Yes I've still got 120VAC from the wall. Thanks.

tom_49

make sure blower door is secure.

Bob North

Yep

Finally found the interlock on the upper panel door...and power back now....but the rapid clicking is still present with no lighting of furnace. Sounds like the clicking is from the pilot itself rather than the control box. Since I've already thoroughly cleaned the pilot, are there any ideas here? Thank you guys.

ed wallace

no heat

hot surface igniter is bad

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lchmb

spark ignition

Sound's like either the pilot orifice is plugged or your gas valve is not enegyzing to allow the pilot to recieve gas. You can't just clean the top of the pilot, it's the orifice that makes the big difference.

Bob North

If I physically blew through the gas pipe when I had it out (which I did) should I have gotten any resistance, or should a clean orafice give a totally clear tube? There was in fact quite a bit of resistance when blowing through it. Thanks again guys.

Darin_3

Clean the oriface

Cleaning the oriface will insure proper gas to the pilot. Be careful not to overdo the cleaning and punch the hole out larger than its designed. a single bristle from a wire brush can be big enough but again, don't punch the holes. Also, the spark has to be at the top of the pilot and not shorting out at the base of the electrode

Glenn Harrison_2

You will get resistance...

but you should be able to hear a hiss of air as you blow thru the pilot tube and burner.

All of the Duomatic Olsen furnaces I have worked on are rusty. I would be willing to bet your pilot orifice is almost rusted shut, or the spark electrode is rusted enough that the spark is weak.

In all honesty, I have to advise you to get a professional contractor in there. The next couple of steps I would take can be dangerous unless you know exactly what you are doing. So I can't advise you further, especially on a public forum, where to go after you have taken the pilot out and cleaned everything thouroughly.

bob young

gas can be fatal

Make sure your insurance premiums are paid up to date.because you are getting ready to blow up your house. working on GAS & not being qualified is criminal. families end up dead for someone trying to save a few bucks. its not worth the gamble.

Mitch_4

Technical Support from Olsen

Hi Bob;

My name is Mike Breault and I do technical support for the ECR International - Olsen Division products. We are the original manufacturing facility formerly known as Duomatic Olsen.

I would like to talk to you about some things to check on the unit, as well as where you can locate a replacement part. You can reach me at 519-627-0791 ext 228.

Mike

Bob North

Duomatic Update

Thanks much for all the guidance, especially the warnings of danger. I will only tackle the basics and leave the rest to the experienced. A belated update due to the holidays... I've thoroughly cleaned the pilot opening, and the pilot now consistently lights. But I am unsure about the flame sensor on this model -- the schematic calls the ignitor the "ignitor/sensor"...which I cleaned/buffed with steel wool. I did this because I'm unsure of the "normal" operation of the unit. Here's what I'm observing:
--the pilot lights the burners,
--the burners stay lit for 3-5 minutes, then
shut off awhile---and the blower remains
on,
--normal heat is coming from the vents,
--the pilot relights the burners at intervals
until the inside temp reaches the t-stat
setting.
Questions for this model:
Is the intermittent relighting of burners "normal" oper- ation, or should they stay on fully until the t-stat temp is reached?
I find no internal filters for this model...is this correct?
Is there a seperate "flame sensor" I can't see, other than the ignitor with the thick orange (high voltage?) lead to it? I pulled up a panel to view the burner compartment, and there is nothing like a flame sensor in it.

The unit seems to be working with a pilot cleaning. Just wondering about "normal" operation. That's as far as go, and thanks again.

curiousity kills

can you see a spark? check all your ground wires from the spark control to the furnce are tight and not corroded.

John MacGregor_2

Duomatic

If your furnace and ductwork are properly sized and designed, the burner should stay on until the t-stat is satisfied, otherwise it is operating on the high limit and probably overheating the heat exchanger which can cause prmature failure.
Good luck,
John

jaybee

i was thinking more on the lines of checking proper grounds on ignitor ,flame sensor if rust is present.a flame sensor want open gas valve if it doesnt sense a flame to ground. I am a green guy though just thought i would try. GAS KILLS SEEK A PROFFESIONAL.

Darin(in Michigan)

I'm with John. Mo0st of the time when the fan runs constant while the burner turns on and off, the unit is cycling on limit. Check for plugged filters, a loose belt, a plugged a coil if you have Air Conditioning, or a plugged secondary heat exchanger. Also verify the heat anticipator is set correctly. If the pilot assembly is a Honeywell, the spark electrode and the flame sensor may be the same rod with a spark plug wire run to it.