Steam Header Diameter Varies

RAS

Thanks for the response. Here is the additional info you requested. The boiler is a RESCO PSB-5D The boiler model number is BS2AAN000150AAAA. Input BTUH 150,000

I have posted 3 photos showing the piping and added labels showing pipe diameter.

RAS

Steam Header Pipe Varies in Diameter

Our home is about 80 years old. The heating is provided with a one-pipe counterflow system. The furnace was replaced about 8 years ago (before we bought the house). The current furnace has a 2 1/2" steam header outlet. The installer downsized this to 2" for the 3' run to the original 3" pipe T which then divides to two 2 1/2" runs left and right to feed the home radiators.

Question: Is it worth resizing the three feet of 2" header to 2 1/2"? Does the current reduction in diameter greatly affect system efficiency. We have an estimate of about $900 to pull apart the old piping and repipe to 2 1/2".

Thanks for your help.

Joe Grosso

We'd have to know

what boiler you now have, and what the manufacturer specifies for that model boiler. Most manufacturers use the same end section for all boilers in a model series, tapped the same size, but may allow smaller piping for the smaller models in the series.

Since this is a counterflow system, I'd be interested to know how the installer handled the condensate returning to the boiler. Dumping it into the steam header is wrong. There should be a drain connection to take the condensate to the return connection on the boiler.

How about taking some pics and posting them here so we can see what you have?

Joe Grosso

Looks like that's a re-badged Dunkirk \"Plymouth\" boiler

I think it would be a good idea to increase the 2-inch riser from the header to the tee to 2-1/2-inch. You have steam feeding what looks like two 2-inch mains thru that riser.

I see the drip (drain) lines coming from the mains. These are connected together above the boiler's water line, which is a no-no since steam could get into them and bang. That tee needs to be located below the waterline.

Do both mains have vents at the end?

RAS

More Info On Boiler

The boiler label says "certified by Dunkirk Boiler Corp." The mains are indeed 2".

The drip line for the main line going off to the left can be seen in photo 1, just behind the red padding I put on an elbow of the water feed line that I kept hitting my head on, at the top left of the photo. It's a bit further down line from the boiler than the drip line on the right. The black pipe drip line on the main to the right connects to the copper drip line just out of sight in the photo, behind the 2" riser. You can see that connection in photo 3.

I don't have vents at the end of each main, but I am having them installed. Luckily there are capped T's close to both end of the main, where vents can be installed.

Thank you very much for your help.

patrick linhardt

good call steamhead

Hi Steamhead,

Good question about venting. Love the reply, "Luckily there were capped tees..." Amazing what happens out there.

Yes, definitely put in the vents, and increase near boiler pipe size to manufacturer's recommendations or larger to slow the exit velocity of the steam. Slower steam is drier steam which heats more efficiently.

Best regards, Pat

Steamhead (in transit)

Make sure your main vents are sized properly

Do this by measuring the length and diameter of each main. In your case we know they are 2-inch diameter. This tells us how much air must be vented from each main.

dennis02

header

If your gonna change the risers i think you should have someone come in and re pipe all the near boiler piping so that way you ll have corrected all the problems in one shot because other than what has already been said your header looks to low jmo