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Recirculating hot water

Why do you need a pump at all? If the piping is sized and installed correctly there really isn't a need for the pump. If your tubing is already installed, why not try it without the pump, you may be pleasently suprised. Let gravity do the work.

Robert O'Connor/NJ

Comments

  • Gene_2
    Gene_2 Member Posts: 59
    DOMESTIC HOT WATER RECIRC.

    Looking to install a hot water recirculating loop to reduce the wait time for hot water in my home. I've been looking at Grundfos and Taco. I like the Taco because of the available digital timer (no resetting clock after power outage). Is it necessary to get a circulator with Integral Flow Check or get one without it.
    Thanks
  • Gene_2
    Gene_2 Member Posts: 59
    DOMESTIC HOT WATER RECIRC.

    Looking to install a hot water recirculating loop to reduce the wait time for hot water in my home. I've been looking at Grundfos and Taco. I like the Taco because of the available digital timer (no resetting clock after power outage). Is it necessary to get a circulator with Integral Flow Check or get one without it.
    Thanks
    Gary
  • john_27
    john_27 Member Posts: 195


    we just went with a taco 7....running constantly...be sure to insulate your pipes....so farso good ....pressure hasn't been reduced....and hot is immediate.
  • J.C.A._3
    J.C.A._3 Member Posts: 2,980
    I'm sorry, but I've really got to get in on this....

    #1. You are NOT "re-circulating" hot water, you are circulating it.(just a pet peeve, as is....)

    #B. The hot water comes from a WATER HEATER....NOT a"Hot Water Heater"....Hot water, DOESN"T need to be heated!!!!(CAPISE?)

    When I recently brought this to the attention of a realitor, it made her break out laughing. For some strange reason, they are always reffered to as a "hot water heater". Maybe WE should start refering to them as "hot water maker"?

    Potato/PotAAdo, Tomato/TomAAto, let's get this stuff right! Chris

    Maybe I have too much time on my hands? JCA
  • Andrew Hagen (ALH)
    Andrew Hagen (ALH) Member Posts: 165
    But

    it's realtor, not realitor. ;-)

    Running the circulator continuously increases standby loss significantly. I'm fond of the idea of occupancy sensors located in the bathrooms and kitchen. That way it's there when you need it, but not there 24/7.

    Even a simple timer is better than running it constantly.

    Not to mention the potential pipe erosion problems with small diameter copper tube with high velocity water circulating inside.

    The timed circulators are not that expensive, and they'll save you $$.

    -Andrew
  • Mark Hunt
    Mark Hunt Member Posts: 4,908
    Occupancy sensors


    We used them in a dentists office to activate the radiant panels and the domestic circ.

    Doctors liked the instant hot H2O and the patints liked the warm chair.

    Mark H

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  • Bill Jirik,
    Bill Jirik, Member Posts: 54


    Recirculation lines on domestic hot water are really a nice thing but you really need to watch the pump size as bigger is not better, I have seen many times an oversized pump create errosion and subsequent leaks in copper tubing not to mention effecting the normal temperature stratification that is what allows you to draw 80% of the tank volume without a significant change in temperature. I personally use a "Taco" 003 on most of my jobs
  • Gary_7
    Gary_7 Member Posts: 25
    Taco 003 For Recirculating

    Bill are you saying that a Taco 006 is too big for approx. 50' 3/4" copper supply and approx. 50' 1/2" pex return??
  • ScottMP
    ScottMP Member Posts: 5,883
    I think

    the biggest thing to watch is the temperature loss. If not insulated the copper tubing can loose quite a bit of heat.

    One of my biggest impressions from ISH is how little insualting we do on heating systems for residential work.

    Chris, I hope you don't have TOO much time on your hands :)

    Scott

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  • SVDW
    SVDW Member Posts: 80


    You don't need to use a pump w/an integral check but you do need a check valve as the pump dumps back into the cold inlet of your heater. Use a bronze pump with either a timer or a built in aquastat so the thing doesn't run all night wasting energy & heating your house. I would insulate the water lines as well if they are not already insulated. Some companies are making these little under-sink type pumps w/check that return down the cold water supply to the sink. Put it on the farthest fixture from your heater & it will take care of everything in between. They typically operate on an aquastat b/c otherwise you'd always have hot water in the cold supply. These pumps are good for re-model work but I would not use for new construction. Good luck.
  • steve gates
    steve gates Member Posts: 329


    all it has to do is move. the slower the better. I use the grundfos, timer, on/off, sensor and check in one.
  • Bill Jirik,
    Bill Jirik, Member Posts: 54


    a Taco 003 would be perfect for your application, however you might try piping the system as a gravity return first, supply pipes sloping up from the water hearter and return sloping down to the heater connecting to the heater drain with a brass nipple, tee and check valve, if you have no air pockets or heat traps it should circulate by gravity, you might have to tilt the check valve slightly so it is partially open yet shuts on water draw, if piped right it will circulate, if it doesn't add a Taco 003
  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,599
    options

    Hello: Suggest you look into www.gothotwater.com Also, if a separate circ line is the right way to go, look at some of the recent articles by Gary Klein in the engineering trade journals. Try googling "gary klein hot water". He suggests a sensor at the last hot water usage point on the loop. No need to heat up the whole line, just to have it cool. Also, keep hot plumbing out of the ground!! It's a BIG loser. Hope that is of some use.

    Yours, Larry
  • Joe Mattiello
    Joe Mattiello Member Posts: 720
    Taco plumb & plug

    Taco offers a plumb & plug package to facilitate the installation, and have your system run more efficiently, and with high cost of energy these days that sounds good to me. The plumb and Plug comes with an analog or digital timer so you only operate the pump when you need too. Additionally there is an optional clamp on type aquastat with a fixed 20 degree delta 95 to 115 degrees, that works with the timer, so the pump cycles on and off on temperature with in the time period set on the clock. For your reference I have attached the submittal data information. I f you require additional information you can visit the Taco web site at www.taco-hvac.com


    taco, Inc.
    Joe Mattiello
    Technical Service Technician
    joemat@taco-hvac.com
    401-942-8000 X 484
    www.taco-hvac.com
    Joe Mattiello
    N. E. Regional Manger, Commercial Products
    Taco Comfort Solutions
  • Joe Mattiello
    Joe Mattiello Member Posts: 720
    003 will work fine

    The taco 003 will work fine up to approximately 200' of pipe. You should have a check valve after the pump before the water heater. Taco offers the 003 with an integral type check valve, saving you time and money, with enhanced performance because we eliminate the pressure drop through the external check.
    Taco, Inc.
    Joe Mattiello
    Technical Service Technician
    joemat@taco-hvac.com
    401-942-8000 X 484
    www.taco-hvac.com
    Joe Mattiello
    N. E. Regional Manger, Commercial Products
    Taco Comfort Solutions
  • bob_44
    bob_44 Member Posts: 112
    JCA do you

    take a leak or leave a leak?
  • J.C.A._3
    J.C.A._3 Member Posts: 2,980
    Bob,

    I HAVE a leak! BTW...Thanks Al.I missed that one!

    Like I said, just one of my pet peeves. Chris
  • Gary_7
    Gary_7 Member Posts: 25
    Thank You All For The Input

This discussion has been closed.