boiler pressure problem

Maine Ken

Your exp tank should not be waterlogged. I recommend having someone check it. From the voice of experience, you don't want to mess with an exp tank full of hot pressurized water w/out knowing what you are doing.

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ET

boiler pressure problem

My system is regulated at 15psi yet even with a new regulator it runs up to 30 psi after a few days. I do not have domestic hot water.

The expansion tank starts off empty and is water logged when the pressure rises to 30 psi over the few days.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

jeff_51

I take it you have an auto fill

we do not use them. To often they mask a problem. It sounds like the system is adding water when it shouldn't. Shut off the feed valves and monitor your system pressure. Cold it should be 12-15psi, when heated around 20-22. Is this a new or existing system? Any changes? Bladder tank or captive air? how old is the tank? Is it holding pressure? Do you have rads? I have seen many systems that were installed 70-80 yrs ago and the expansion tank was always too small. The attic rads were never heating cause they were filled with air cause the expansion tank was always too small. Give us a little more to work with

ET

answers

To Jeff and others....more info.
The system has a B&G auto fill.
New auto fill. After removal, the old one tested good!
It is a 50 year old system, generally trouble free.
Only recent change is new beraing assembly/impeller on B&G circulator pump.
Expansion is captive and bound to be large enough after all these years.
We have tested the exp tank by isolating from system and maintaining pressure for 24 hrs.
The system has radiators which lok more like an automotive radiator than cast iron. Each has a bleed fitting.
The burning question is how is the water geting into the expansion tank and effectively pressurizing that air, when we start it off enpty?
Thanks, Ern

ET

answers

To Jeff and others....more info.
The system has a B&G auto fill.
New auto fill. After removal, the old one tested good, too!
It is a 50 year old system, generally trouble free.
Only recent change is new beraing assembly/impeller on B&G circulator pump.
Expansion is captive and bound to be large enough after all these years.
We have tested the exp tank by isolating from system and maintaining pressure for 24 hrs.
The system has radiators which look more like an automotive radiator than cast iron. Each has a bleed fitting.
The burning question is how is the water geting into the expansion tank and effectively pressurizing that air, when we start it off empty?
Thanks, Ern

Larry (from OSHA)

something to consider

Greetings,

A couple of suggestions for you from a fellow homeowner. First check this link:

http://www.heatinghelp.com/newsletter.cfm?Id=41

It talks about why compression tanks get waterlogged. Second, go the the books section and get some of Dan's books, specifically his "Pumping Away" book. Lots of really good information. If you have not had a hydronics professional take a look at your system, you might want to check out the Find a Professional section of this site. You may have someone really good right in your area.

Good Luck and please let us know what you find out.

Larry (from OSHA)

jeff_51

use the isolatoion valves

and shut of the auto feed for a couple of days and monitor the system and see what is happening. That will eliminate that. Just go through the system and isolate and go one step at a time. You will find it. Let us know what you are finding

Jim Burke comfort zone

XTANK

> My system is regulated at 15psi yet even with a

> new regulator it runs up to 30 psi after a few

> days. I do not have domestic hot water.

>

> The

> expansion tank starts off empty and is water

> logged when the pressure rises to 30 psi over the

> few days.

>

> Any suggestions would be

> appreciated!



I would first check all convector's to see if they have auto vents if they are i would close the caps to make them a manual vent you can't have auto vents with old style tanks.

Jim Burke comfort zone

x Tanks

First i would say if problem started after bearing ****. was installed was the sytem bled after this was done .
Second you say there are auto vents on all your convectors which can cause you problems you can"t use this type vent with old style tank.
Third thing is are you sure tank is empty after you drain it .
Start by closing all auto vents then drain your tank making sure it is completely empty sometimes you must blow into the hose.
Hope this helps.

Big Ed

Tank water logged in a few days

You have a hole near the top of the tank or your snorkel that quick drains the tank is leaking...

Empire_2

B&G Airtrol fitting

This is a must to stop the absorbtion of your air charge back into the system. Without this device, waterlogging is an inevitable problem.

Dick Charland

Jim makes a lot of sense, you need to make sure the tank is emprty. Is there an equalizing fitting on the tank with an 1/8" plug to allow air in when draining? Opening the drain valve after shutting off the system valve to the tank will take the pressure off of the tank, but then it will pull a vacuum and hold water in the tank. If there is no equalizing tube, blow into the tank and be prepared for the water that will come flying out, nasty stuff, continue until tank is thoroughly drained.

I once had one that drove me nuts, turned out 1/8" plug had been turned in so much the tank fitting had a hairline crack. causing the air to leak out.

ET

30 psi Pressure Problem Solved!

I was not aware that I was using the hot water coil as I had installed a separate water heater some years ago. So yup, it was the water coild leaking internally. Hope this helps folks in the future and thanks!!!!!!!

Many thanks to the person posting the note on where to look!
It wasn't unduely waterlogged as the old style tank seems to typically run at about 1/4 full or so!! ET