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Bathroom heating suggestions

hrhr Posts: 6,106Member
First I nail 2X2's on the studs to allow the plates to flush out with the stud. This also "frees up" the stud for the backerboard to be nailed on. Usually you can find enough scraps on the job for this. Even short pieces of 2X4 or whatever. This happens to be a 2X6 exterior wall.

I like ThermoFin U best, but C Fin works too. You need to reach behind to pound in the tube with the C. The air Palm Nailer makes this very easy. Wear ear plugs!

We run this as a separate loop for balancing, or to run just the walls without the bathroom floors if desired in summer months.

Hense my desire for that real LOW output modulating boiler:)

Be sure to nail plate any stud that you drill through to protect the pex.

Homeowners LOVE heated shower walls. And floors of course.

hot rod

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Comments

  • Jack_23Jack_23 Posts: 153Member
    Bathroom heating suggestions

    I'm fixin' to destroy the bathrooms in the house one by one and would appreciate some suggestions on heat. I've got a Buderus G-224 which runs baseboard throughout the house. I am interseted in upgrading from the baseboard to _______?
    I am taking it down to the joists, rafters and studs. Tile floors. Walls combination tile, rock above maybe some wainscoating. Radiant floor would be nice, maybe panels. Room is only 4.5 X 12'. What do you like?
  • WeezboWeezbo Posts: 6,232Member
    if the structure will support the gypcrete radiant floors is a

    path to take...it depends though on what the heat needs are for your home and where the bathrooms are located in the home,and just how tight you can get the structure for controled ventilation and how well insulated you can get it... as theres more savings to be realized by better insulation of the building envelope than simply changing emmitter choise.thats all sounds simple...till you get into it..:) if you are able carpenter theres some work ahead :)
  • The real question is...

    what kind of radiant will it be?

    Can you give up a 1-1/2 of height, go pex in wetbed.

    No room, pex with extruded aluminum transfer plates from under the sub floor.

    Keep the controls basic but include a floor sensor on the thermostat.

    Steve
  • BillW@honeywell[email protected] Posts: 1,099Member
    Don't forget...

    the heated towel rack(s)! A loop behund the big mirror will help minimize mirror fogging.
  • Joe BrixJoe Brix Posts: 626Member
    SInce you'll need a different temp zone

    Can you get the piping down to the boiler?
  • jerry scharf_3jerry scharf_3 Posts: 419Member
    radiant requires a different water temp

    Jack,

    If you want a good simple solution, I would go with one of the really great looking panel rads or similar hooked to a TRV. You wan't have warm tootsies, but the room will be comfortable and the effort is quite small. Someone posted a web site within the last week, and some of those pieces are works of art that heat.

    If you want to go radiant, then you will need some method of getting cooler water. A simple way might be a Taco RMB. As for the floors, there are any number of ways to go. I would probably go for warmboard or thinfin on top as a first choice, then gyp bed as a second.

    My thinking is why get involved with the structual load when you don't need to. Then again I live in northern california, and structural codes out here are amazing, even to the locals. When you add weight to the floor, you not only need to increase the gravity load support, you also need to increase the hold down all the way to the foundation to prevent uplift and the shear to cover the increase in moment and diaphram capcity of the rest of the floor. With each house you say they can't ask for more steel that this. Then each time you get the next set of appoved plans you shake your head and say the last one wasn't so bad... Two story houses now can require straps beyond an MST60 (6000 lbs capcity.) I would guess a 3000 sqft house with a couple interesting structural details would use 100,000 nails.

    jerry
  • Mad Dog_2Mad Dog_2 Posts: 3,455Member
    You have NO choice..............................................

    If you are going with tile floors.......RADIANT!!!!! Mad Dog

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  • hrhr Posts: 6,106Member
    Consider aluminum transfer plates

    under the subfloor and up the shower walls.

    Of all the radiant installations I do, the radiant shower walls are the biggest "crowd pleaser". Customers talk, to their friends, most, about their warm shower walls.

    I would still prefer radiant floors/ walls, in a tiled bathroom, over any other installation.

    Warm, comfortable, hidden, safe, etc, etc.

    Plenty of ways to "mix down" from a boiler or baseboard loop.


    http://www.pmmag.com/CDA/ArticleInformation/features/BNP__Features__Item/0,2379,62497,00.html

    hot rod


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  • Jack_21Jack_21 Posts: 99Member
    Okay...radiant....Now...

    I am going down to the base structure in floors, walls, ceiling so I can reinsulate, repair and re-route a bunch of water, soil and heat piping (the half bath on the first floor is right below and is coming out at the same time for piping/wiring access). I will be able to re-insulate the outer walls. Maybe inner too. Not for nothing do they call it a thunder jug!

    Hot Rod, when doing the shower walls; do you have a detail? How high up the wall do you go? Thanks for the link to John's article.

    Not sure yet but I may pour it. The area is well supported and I will glue and screw some additional 2x's to create a kinda torsion box for strength. Any other recommendations?
  • S EbelsS Ebels Posts: 2,322Member
    Radiant option #2

    Consider Climate Panels from Viega. Only 1/2" thick and the added weight is about 5% of gyp or concrete. We've used them on walls floors and ceilings, even under stone on a fireplace. As with anything you do, there are design considerations to be thought out. Small diameter tube requires shorter loop lengths, but in the dozens of jobs we've done with this product we've never had to use a high head circulator.

    http://www.viega-na.com/shell1.asp?areaId=1&sectionId=2&subsectionId=3&pageId=9
  • Jack_21Jack_21 Posts: 99Member
    Thanks guys, I appreciate the assist!!

  • vhlaundryvhlaundry Posts: 41Member
    Now that is very cool

    I have redone one bathroom and wish I had done it this way. However, I am also in the process of a second which is back to back the completed one. They share on common wall which is 6 foot wide with 8 foot ceilings. The bathroom I am working on still has the common wall open........I wonder if I could sneak in some of this this good stuff on the back of the completed bathroom as well as the bathroom I am working on?

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