steam returns

thfurnitureguy_4

I have 2 steam mains in a one pipe system 300" from boiler. They mount at the celing and run parolell the length of the building on opposite sides. One side heats 5 min. faster at the main vent than the other. The slower side is colder throughout the building. Should I try to equalize the two sides by taking away vents on the faster side? I think that the steam is crossing over to the slower side at the Y for the return and closing the vents on the slow side before the air is purged. This would force the remaining main venting to be done through the radiators on the cold side. Is there another way to pipe this return? see the pict. thanks T

Steamhead

You nailed it

The new return should have been installed below the boiler's waterline like the old one was. The standing water in the return would have kept steam from crossing over.

Lowering the new return would be best. But if this is not an option, pipe down from one steam main about five feet, then back up to the return. At the bottom of this "U" seal, install a boiler drain for flushing and filling it. Fill the seal with water before re-starting the system. The water in the seal will prevent crossover steam.

One of the two steam main connections must be direct, i.e. not running thru the seal. This will avoid the problem of changing the "A" dimension at the end of the new return to a "B" dimension.

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thfurnitureguy_4

Thanks once again! The old system may not have been right either. The old return was well above the boiler water level. I assume this U seal will fill its self. And do I understand It will be like a 5' tall U filled with water with a flush drain at the bottom?

jesse the great

yes

listen to steamhead 5'down & 5'up

Steamhead

You must fill the \"U\" seal

before starting up, otherwise it will bang until it fills. Use a washing-machine hose to connect a regular garden hose to the boiler drain at the bottom.

Once filled, it will stay full unless someone drains it.

The old return was probably below the waterline of the original boiler, which was much taller than most of today's boilers.

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thfurnitureguy_2

I see, Should I keep the same 2" ID pipe size for the U seal? and is there a U type fitting with a drain tap or is this a build-up out of elbows? Thanks T.

Steamhead

Keep the same size

and make the U out of elbows, tees and nipples.

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thfurnitureguy_2

As always Thanks !

thfurnitureguy_2

U Seal

Is this what the Dr ordered? Is the 60" water column to keep steam pressure from blowing me back in to the previous situation. Lets see 1# for 28"wc I guess its good for a little better than 2 PSI of steam?

Steamhead

That should do it!

remember there will normally be steam pressure on both sides of the U, so there's even less chance of blowing the water out.

How's the system working now?

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thfurnitureguy_4

We finally ordered the vents. They should be in this week. Its been a slow start for this business and the budget for steam vents came after all the self labor clean up was done. Just adding the U seal increased the # of sections heated in my radiator by 2. If I remove my temporary plugs where the new vents will go(manually purge air) it will just heat the whole radiator on a lite day and completely on a cold day. I am looking into my burner nozzle It seams that Burnham rep. recomends a larger GPH nozzle. My instructions call for the one that is installed. Still some confusion there. I am going to install the vents before starting with the burner. If this is wrong this will be the last straw with the company I had do all of this work when we bought the place. I would like to hire you for a final look see and recomendation when I am done with the simple stuff. Thanks T

ThermalJake

A thing of beauty!!

Do you think that black pipe has testosterone in it?

Otherwise, how do you explain the feeling when you're done?

Jake

Steamhead

Whenever you're ready

call me on (410) 466-8116, in the evening and we'll set something up.

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Steamhead

That feeling comes

from hearing the Dead Men cheering from the other side.

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