thermostatic trap testing

John Shea

Due to the limited condensate produced by a few 3/4 fittings & nipples, I'm having a hard time determining the bad from good.

Some of the traps are closing on steam, however, after a minute or two, no condensate is relieved. Other traps will periodically let out a few drops in succession.

Is it possible that the condensate has to 'build up' to a point high enough (maybe all the way to the bellows) in order for the bellows to cool/trap to open?

Some of them are a no brainer, others seem marginal.

I plan on watching one for a full heating cycle to see if the trap ever opens for condensate.

Thanks for your help.

Steamhead

Try adding some more pipe

as a "cooling leg" to produce some condensate for the trap to work with. This is a Dead Men's trick that still works well. You still see them on thermostatic traps used to drip piping in 2-pipe steam systems.

There's a photo of a cooling leg on page 123 of Lost Art.

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Robert O'Connor_3

trap testing

if possible, pipe a supply water prior to the trap with appropriate ball valves, back flow preventers and check valves. then you'll be able to cycle the trap and watch it function

Bob_19

There are

some variables involved with output. The bellows are basicly throttling depending on those variables.
Delta,
Back Pressure,
Hydraulic Pressure,

In a perfect situation the trap will not allow total release of condensate during loading.

John Shea

supply water

tptunstall,

piped in a fresh water supply (hot) with check valve and it works like a charm. There's no longer any question as to whether the traps are good or bad. Nice to finally know for sure.

Thanks for your help.

Matt Undy

Or dunk a portion of the pipe leading to the trap in water to condense more steam in that area....

Probably a little simpler than getting a hot water source depending on how much you use the setup and how elaborate you want to get.

Matt