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gas valve

john_81
john_81 Member Posts: 9
Ive asked Robertshaw and the Tank with no help maybe you guys can
The maximum temperature produced by my Robert Shaw (9000246) natural gas
control valve is 130. It is installed on a 4 year old Ace hot water tank
(30 gal 30M btu) which I use ( in addition to domestic hot water) to heat
600 feet of pex thru a small circulator. I have replaced it once under
warranty and once myself no avail. Please understand that the burner shuts
off at 130 registered on a good thermometer placed on the output side of the
heater. I have read it should produce 160, but if the valve is faulty, 3 of
them have been faulty. Can you recommend a solution or a more sophisticated
valve that fits?

Comments

  • Mitch_4
    Mitch_4 Member Posts: 955
    is it a WDER7200 valve?

    They make 2 knobs for it. one white that limits the temp to 130°, and a blue one that goes to 160°

    Get he model number and knob color, maybe I can help, Not familiar with ACE brand, but the valve I know well.
  • john_81
    john_81 Member Posts: 9
    Robertshaw (9000246)

    Thanks for the response mitch.

    Ive been looking for a model number for this thing for years.
    What the Ace book calls the Mfg number is above. It is not WDER series since I have seen those pictures on Rs website.
    The valve looks closest to the 110 series and has a black and red knob. If you asked for a gas valve for a hot water tank in a plumbing supply store in CNY 10 years ago, this is the only one they stocked.
  • Mitch_4
    Mitch_4 Member Posts: 955
    sorry..

    I'll look into what I have here about that number...But I can't promise anything
  • John are there

    any numbers on the valve. Robertshaw uses factory numbers which can be cross referenced to a catalog number. The factory numbers are usually somewhere on the valve. If I have those I may be able to help you.
  • john_81
    john_81 Member Posts: 9
    Robertshaw valve

    The only number on the valve is on a paper sticker: 37C73U640.
    It is natural gas with high limit protection that destroys the valve, push button on top to light the pilot settings Hot, A B C and Very Hot. Max is supposed to be 160. I cycles 30 degrees. Its picture is in every water heater installation manual that I have owned and on the lighting instructions on the side of the heater.
  • John that is a

    White Rodgers water heater control. It is an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) only control. A 37C73U-168 can be used to replace it and it goes from 70 degrees to 160 degrees.

    All water heater controls have builtin high limit control (ECO)

    Hope this helps you out.
  • john_81
    john_81 Member Posts: 9
    wrong again


    Thanks Tim. Maybe thats why Robertshaw didnt answer me. My id came from an Ace catalog provided by my retailer--no name is on the valve. But my original problem remains. Is there something in my design, that is, the circulation of the water or maybe the insulation on the tank that would cause it to close at 130 rather than 160? Three in a row have done this.
  • Sweet_2
    Sweet_2 Member Posts: 143
    Is it possible that

    your water heater is under sized to handle your heat loss? Three in a row?
  • john_81
    john_81 Member Posts: 9
    heater too small

    I'll never know Bob until I get the valve to close at a higher temperature. Ive replaced three valves because they closed at less than 160.
  • Sweet_2
    Sweet_2 Member Posts: 143
    John

    Is the gauge your using in an immersion well or in the flow of water? And your sure the T-Stat is satisfying?
  • john_81
    john_81 Member Posts: 9
    gauges

    My system is not sophisticated Bob. The gauge I use is a meat thermometer taped to the return line of the radiator, close to the hw tank. The only thermostat is in the gas valve.
  • big bob
    big bob Member Posts: 6
    just a note

    robertshaw has put out a recall on many of it's gas valves due to faulty production.especially on water heaters.i ran into a bad one last week and tryed to order a new one and they are trying to send me a retro fit.because they have had so many problems according to sales rep.
  • john_81
    john_81 Member Posts: 9


  • john_81
    john_81 Member Posts: 9
    old thread gas valve

    Sorry to wake up this old question. Attached is recent correspondence with W-R which answers nothing. Can anyone help?
  • John, I am not

    able to download your e-mail to White Rodgers. Maybe it is just me anyone else able to read it????
  • John get rid of the

    water heater. Put in a boiler and be done with it. It is my opinion that wateer heaters are not very good boilers.
  • Steve_35
    Steve_35 Member Posts: 546
    Tim you can't read it because it has a funky extension.

    Right click on the file and save it as a .doc. You should be able to open it then.

    Basically, it says they build the valves to the manufacturer's specifications and if you've installed three of them and they all act the same they (WR) don't think it's likely the valves are faulty. Then they suggest taking it up with the manufacturer of the WH.
  • Steve_35
    Steve_35 Member Posts: 546
    Tim you can't read it because it has a funky extension.

    Right click on the file and save it as a .doc. You should be able to open it then.

    Basically, it says they build the valves to the manufacturer's specifications and if you've installed three of them and they all act the same they (WR) don't think it's likely the valves are faulty. Then they suggest taking it up with the manufacturer of the WH.
  • Mad Dog
    Mad Dog Member Posts: 2,595
    This is why I don't care for water heaters as a hydronic heating

    source...learned the hard way myself. On one I finally put a regular gas valve on, seperate aquastat, and a blocked vent switch - just to be sure. By the time, you do all that, you might as well put a small boiler in. Mad Dog

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • john_81
    john_81 Member Posts: 9
    \"On most days, the urge to oversize is greater than the sex driv

    Sorry to look the gift horse in the mouth guys but putting a boiler in does not solve the problem of what's wrong with the valve or why the tank does not perform to its specs or which valve I might use to overcome the problem.
This discussion has been closed.