Condensate for Superstor

Richard_4

had the same challenge this week on a dunkirk steamer.found no tappings in casting to run a condensate loop. drilled and taped the coil plate on the left side of boiler for aquastat,piped in my circulator off the bottom return and piped in my baseboard return to the coil plate on the front side of the boiler.(dunkirk has two coil locations)I extended a dip tube into the front section below water level. circulation was great but was not hot enough.I then raised the level of water in the boiler aprox. one inch,thewater started circulating hot. this went on for weeks,increced aquastat to 200,reversed circulator tried everything. out of frustration I removed the front coil plate and dip tube, reinstalled coil plate,refilled the boiler,turned on the circulator and instantly 200 degree water circulating andstill heating.It appears that my return water was being channeled through the section with the dip tube and through the mud leg, and into the suction side of the circulator. in other words, my return water was not mixing with the hot water in the boiler. I hope that sharing my challange helps you with yours.

Todd_9

Superstor off steam boiler

First time I've had this problem. We added a superstor to a weil 566he steamer. The "out" to indirect is from the bottom right tapping(where the boiler drain is) the return is throught the boiler side of the hartford loop. When we fired up the boiler, we were getting very cool water- approx 120°. The top of the boiler near the coil plate was about 200°. We figured that the flow was just going throught the bottom of the boiler so we modified the skim port to use asd a return. We ran a copper pipe inside across the sections and made it like a dip tube to drop in the top right rear below the water line. This improved it a little but still not as hot as we'd like to see. What else can we do here?

todd s

Thanks

That might be it. This boiler, being a 66 series is 22years old. It is about 4" from the wall on the left side so even though there is a real nice spot on the rear coil plate, we can't get to it. What we did discover was this had been leaking from the gasket for a weil(while) and will probably need replacing sooner than later. The homeowner didn't really care because the house is being sold. We could have just replaced the Bock 32e but I was trying to make the situation better with the shared flue and oil line. No good deed goes unpunished. Thanks for the insight. I am very frustrated that its not working as well as planned.

Tom M.

I don't know how much room you have but

if you look on the left side of the front section a few inches below the water line, there is a knockout in the boiler jacket. Some boilers had a 3/4" tapping there and some did not. If you put your thumb on the knockout and press, you will feel the square head of the plug that came in the trim package. You can remove the top, remove the bottom screw from the side cover and pop the side cover out to the left. You can get a wrench inside the cover but the plug is always hard to get out. If there is only a plate and not a coil, the side cover will come right off. I just did one this week.

This tapping will pull hotter water from the top of the boiler and you won't get the "hot water on the high limit, cold water running across the bottom of the boiler" effect.

Hope this helps.

Tom M.

Keith_8

superstore

Todd,
How about reversing the flow and making your skim port tapping the supply to the indirect?

Do you have the room to extend your dip tube horizantally thru the top of the boiler and create a manifold that will draw from all of the sections?

Just a thought,

Keith

ScottMP

The problem

with that Kieth is that if the water level drops close to or below the tapping the pump could cavitate.

I found its best to draw off the bottom of the boiler and return at the top.

The few times I've done this ( with a SuperStor ) its wroked fine.

Scott

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todd s

3/4 tapping

Yes its there, however we are using this for the aquastat. I had thought about putting a tee there and using it for the supply and aquastat. I wasn't sure if this was a good idea but this boiler does have dual pressurtrols so there is some "high limit" redundancy. I would rather have the aquastat probe inside the boiler but If this was used as a supply, it would be sensing the water pretty quickly due to the fact that the circ would be moving water past it continuously. I suppose if the circ failed, the pressurtrol would allow it to make steam and we could get a too much heat call.

We had removed the left side jacket to access the 3/4port and that's when we saw the corrosion around the rear coil plate. The bolts are rusted and there's no way to get in there to drill and tap it.

EBEBRATT_6

Buy borrow or steal a copy of Dan's book "How Come" Chapter 6 "Condensate Hot Water Heating" tells you exactly what to do.