Another Buderus ? for Joe

Dan_15

The differential should be 20 degrees. I suggested to make sure the bulb is inserted all the way into the well and using a little heat conductive compound to help. If the Honeywell aquastat is off by 40 degrees or more on the differential, it should be replaced.
Thanks,

Geo_4

Another Buderus question

It seems that 75% of the buderus units I put in, usually gb115-28's or 35's are way off on their aquastat readings. The small honeywell aquastat seems to be way off compared to the supply temp thermometer. They'll drop to an indicated 120 degs or so b4 they kick back on, when the aquastat is set at 180 or so. Do I need some kind of heat transfer paste in the well or is this normal?

J.C.A._3

Joe,Not to disagree.....

But my experience with the Honeywell heat conducting paste has been REAL BAD! I think they should change the name to heat conducting solder.

I wish I had a dollar for every job that the stuff was used on and had to replace the well when the problem was the aquastat. Break off the liquid tube and kiss it goodbye. I can tell by the smell immediately when they break, so I just get out the hose and start draining.

The stuff hardens like a rock after a few years and doesn't work as well as advertised.Maybe they could mix some anti-seize into the compound to make things work properly? Until then, I'll stick to making sure the probe is inserted as deeply as possible into the well. JMHO. Chris

oil-2-4-6-gas

JCA

i have been using a mixture of heat conducting compound and a nickel-based anti sieze for years--just for that reason-

Joe@buderus

Input

Thanks for the info. I will recommend a little anti-sieze be mixed in with the heat conductive compound. The only issue's I've had is it seemed like I ended up with the stuff EVERYWHERE. Thanks,

tim smith

Honeywell aquastats

Are you talking about the electronic aquastats, We have had 2 doa ones on GA124. My local rep said they have had quite a few. We find that the differential between off and on is 45+ when there bad. Good luck, Tim

Wayco Wayne_2

Gotta Love

that Anti Seize compound. We used to put it on Drive pulleys on large blowers back when I did commercial A/C work. You could come back years later and it would free up, just like butta. Why not use just the anti seise in the well? Seems to me it would conduct pretty well. WW

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pstef_2

Other types of Anti-Seize

I thought there was one brand or formula that actually contains copper flakes in suspension through-out the Anti-Seize compound. Should help in thermal conductivity, not sure if as good as heat transfer compound.

Constantin

I agree...

I'm also a convert to the judicious use of anti-seize from dealing with some rather nasty corrosion problems on my mums boat.

As long as the anti-seize fills the well altogether, you should get some pretty darn-good heat transfer between the probe and the well walls. The responsiveness should be adequate, but I'd check once to be sure.

Boiler Guy

Copper A/S

The product I use is called Copa-slip. It is a copper impregnated anyisieze with a working range from -25F to 1900F. Excellent on LWCO gaskets etc. Never had this product "bake out" yet. Works good mixrd with Johnson Gas valve grease too.