New Wet Returns??

Rob_21

I'm getting new wet returns installed, after determining that the ones I have are deteriorating (I'm losing water in the system reallllll quick, and a quick hole I made in the basement floor confirmed the deterioration!).

What should I make sure the plumber does in order to maintain the life of the new returns? Obviously, I'm assuming they'll do the best job possible (they've done good work for me in the past). It appears that the bad returns I have now were simply laid into some concrete, with a small 'channel' dug next to them to collect water if they leaked. Should the new pipes be wrapped in something to protect them? What questions should I be asking in regard to the installation?

Specs: residential, one-pipe system, wet returns are approx. 12 feet long in the floor

Thanks!

Unknown

I'd request

insulation around the returns , to protect the pipes from reacting to whatever goes in the floor , and to also keep the heat in them . And also ask for a valve and drain on the return near the boiler , for flushing the returns out if needs be . Is the pipe going back in the floor ?

Rob_21

Yep, the pipe is going back into the floor (as far as I know). I've heard that it's not quite as cut-and-dry to have them run up high when the system's built around them being in the ground.

Is that the case? I can post a picture of the system if it helps ...

Unknown

Sure , if you got some pics

I'd love to see them . I'm not sure what you mean by having the pipes run up high ? You mean above the floor , or off the floor ? Running the new pipe right on top of the floor should not be a problem , as long as the pipe is well below the normal water line . Running the pipe off the ground as a dry return can be done also , but it depends on a few dimensions of the boiler and steam piping .

Rob_21

Thanks for the help; here's the system (see pic). Missing from the picture is the OTHER side of the boiler setup, which mirrors the one shown.

As you can see, the basement is partially finished so we can't really run the pipe at/close to the floor as much as I would love to!! The only way we could do it above-ground would be to run it right under (or thereabouts) the thick pipe that carries the steam up in the top-left hand side of the picture.

It's hard to see, but the boiler setup itself is in its own little "closet" of a room (usually we have folding doors in front). If there was any way to make the returns dry, without obstructing the basement, boy would I be all for it!

Anyway, have a look at the picture and let me know what other info I can provide. I'm really appreciative of the great help/advice on this site!

Unknown

Rob , it looks like the main

goes through the wall . Will they be opening the wall to connect to the return ? Looks like a workout room . How's the heat in there ? Another option is to run the return into 1 1/4 inch Multipak baseboard to give the room some heat if needed . But more than likely the main gives off plenty of heat . You could just run a bare pipe around the perimeter of the room , close to the wall on the floor . It really doesn't take up much space . Getting around the heater might be tricky , but it can be done .

Running a dry return isn't a good option if you want to keep the headroom . It has to be pitched down all the way back to the boiler . Maybe chopping the floor is the best option . Were you planning on a new floor anyway ?

Rob_21

The heat in the room is actually really good. The pipe runs about 1/2 inch underneath the floor under some pretty brittle concrete, so it shouldn't be too hard to dig around.

My plan is to do most of the concrete removal myself the day before work begins, since that's 75% of the labor charges right there.

Unknown

Ahh , good idea

Since it's so thin , a sledge hammer will break the slab up real fast . Make sure you dig it out deep enough to get some insulation on the pipe and maybe buy some sand to backfill over it . You definitely don't want sharp concrete chunks laying on top of the pipe . Good luck on the big dig .

Rob_21

So what you're saying is to dig out the channel with the pipe, put in the new pipe, cover the pipe w/ insulation, pour some sand all around it, and then top THAT up with the concrete?

Thanks for all the help, Ron!

Unknown

Exactly

The sand might be a little overkill if you're using steel pipe though . It'd have to be a HUGE chunk of concrete to pierce steel . But if it's copper they're running I'd put the sand in there instead of the chunky concrete . The sand would be easier on the insulation too . And in a worst case scenerio the pipe leaked again , breaking up the floor with a good bed of sand in there is real easy .