how does one clean a system?

Leo G_99

we usually install a side chamber off the primary loop. Usually 2" with branches at each end tying into the loop. On the primary loop, between the branches is a shut-off as also on each branch. We then plumb a drain at the bottom of the side chamber and just a plain screw cap at the top. Need to replenish your chems? open screw top, fill chamber, close screw top, close Pri loop stop, open branch stops. Simple! when your done, you just reverse your shut-offs, then drain the chamber.

Leo G

Chuckles_3

HO question

How do you clean a closed system and add chemicals to the water? Does it require special equipment designed to pump into the system? Does one connect it through the circulator flanges? Can a homeowner do any of this? I can buy Rhomar chemicals but I would have no idea how to introduce them into the system.

hr

Some choices

unless you want to drain the system down to a point where you can actually pour the "stuff' in... You will need a pump of some sort.

Small amounts can easily be injected with a hand suction pump. This brass version is from Silver King. Cheepo plastic ones are available at hardware outlets.

A couple pump choices, depending on the amount I need to pump. A simple plastic sum pump can work. For larger more volume fills, glycol, etc I use a 1/2 hp Teel transfer pump.

Regardless of the pump lower the system pressure to 5psi to allow "room" to squeeze in the treatment. Always put some clean water behind to assure all the juice has flushed out of the pump.

Do it with a cool boiler and all switches shut off

hot rod

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Chuckles_3

Being an amateur, I can't figure out which opening I am pumping the stuff into. (The previous post by Leo G seems to require additional plumbing.)

I could take a circulator off, but they are all on horizontal sections and if I squirted liquid past the flanges they will drip right back out. Am I missing something?

Also, if I squirt the stuff in with a hand pump, it is going to be very concentrated locally until I've had a chance to run the circulators to mix them up. Is this likely to damage the pipes?

Many thanks again,

hr

For example

I guesstimate the system needs 12 ounces of cleaner or inhibitor. I mix this with 1 gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Then use the hand or electric pump to squirt this in. Add an additional gallon or so of water after the treatment is pumped to clear the pump and hoses.

Any place in the system that you have a boiler drain or purge cock will work. The boiler drain at the bottom of the boiler works, squirt any gunk from that valve before you pump into it. Often a bit of sludge come out of this low point drain valve.

The cleaner and treatments aren't that strong, but I would wear rubber gloves as it stinks and is hard to get the smell from your hands.

Probably rent a small garden hose size pump from a rental place. A Little Giant or Simmer is planty.

This is probably a 15 minute job for a plumber that has the equipment, if you don't want to tackle it yourself.

Good idea to run the zones for 15 minutes or so to circulate it throughout the system.

hot rod

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Chuckles_3

It makes more sense now. Many thanks for the explanation and the photo!

Steve Garson

Does it make sense to clean a 70 year old steam boiler?

Steve_35

Yes, annually.

Steamhead

Sure does, Steve

but on steam I prefer to flush the boiler with a hose or something similar. The problem with using chemical cleaners in a steam boiler is you have to get all the clemical out when you're done, which can be difficult. Leftover chemical can interfere with proper steaming.

Also on some boilers, chemical cleaners can damage the rubber seals between the sections. But I doubt this would be a problem on a 70-year-old boiler- they were all put together with push nipples back then.

Once the boiler is flushed out, it should be skimmed to remove any oil that may still be on the water surface. When you're done, you may notice it steams much better, depending on how dirty it was when you started.

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c.t.kay

cleaning

if the system has an air seperator similar to a spirovent you may unscrew the top and introduce your chemical at that point.

.

Yes, sure enough, our Honeywell air separator has one of those knurled collar thingys that appear to be holding the top part down on the bottom part (the bottom part is threaded).

I'll try unscrewing it in the summer when I am ready to clean. Many thanks, this is even easier!