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check-trol by B&G

jim P._2
jim P._2 Member Posts: 28
in THE MAIN WALL
Has anyone used the B & G Check-trol? It looks like a great product. The reason I am asking is the 200 F max.working temp. the litereture states. I have my boiler aquastat at 180 F and when it gets real cold I turn it up to 190 F ( once this year). Am I cutting it too close if I use this product on my system. A homeowner. Thanks. JIM

Comments

  • Ernie
    Ernie Member Posts: 94
    check-trol

    Jim I to am a HO and have 4 of these on my system, been in operation for the past 2 years, no problems to date with the temperatures you mention. Hopefully we will hear from some of the professionals.
  • Kal Row
    Kal Row Member Posts: 1,520
    i think they are trying to scare us from...

    soldering it without a wet rag, cause most system are running into those temps - if they really meant 200f wet, the valve would be usless

    the grundfos and taco ifc pumps come with a spring checks made out of the same nitrile stuff and they are rated above the 220 upper limit of your typical aquastat
  • jim P._2
    jim P._2 Member Posts: 28
    Chek-trol Isolation Flow Control Flange

    Kal, the 3/4 " model 101231 comes in 3/4" NPT. No soldering involved. It still says 200 F Max. operating temp. Jim
  • jim P._2
    jim P._2 Member Posts: 28


    Ernie, Just to make sure these are the Isolation Flanges by B&G with the built in check that I was talking about. What temperatures are you running by them? Are yours installed vertical or horizontal? B&G Literature does not say anything about orientation. Thanks Jim. Back to the super bowl game.
  • Ernie
    Ernie Member Posts: 94
    Jim

    Sorry it was B&G Hydrotrol Flow Control, they have a Max operating temperature of 250*F, according to their Web Site.
  • ed_19
    ed_19 Member Posts: 14


    I used the flanges on my new radiant system. My boiler loop temp. only gets to 190 deg max. I have them in vert. and horz. positions. The system is in my own house and has been running since the beginning of December. The flanges seem to work very well. I did not have a problem when I soldered them. The brass valve makes up the actual face of the flange, and the “ears” of the flange can spin 360 so you can put the bolts and nuts in the most convenient spot. I will use them again. Once these catch on it will be so easy to replace a pump.
  • Kal Row
    Kal Row Member Posts: 1,520
    jim may be right

    i would appear from this web site
    http://www.dynalabcorp.com/technical_info_acetal.asp

    that it's the acetal palstic check itself, not the nitrile that is the limiting factor
  • jim P._2
    jim P._2 Member Posts: 28
    Acetal max working temp

    is 180 F according to the link you posted Kal. I would still like to hear from a B$G tech rep concerning this matter. Clearing this up will determine whether I use this product(at180-190 F). Thanks Jim
  • jim P._2
    jim P._2 Member Posts: 28


    Ernie How do you like the Hydro-trols? My second option is to use the B&G isolation valve without the check (rated at 250F) with the hydro-trol (rated at 250 F). The B&G check-trol isolation valve is cutting it a little too close with the 200 F max. design temp.
  • jim P._2
    jim P._2 Member Posts: 28
    check-trol iso valves

    Ed do you have the isolation valves with or without the built in check valve? Do you have any concerns about the max working temp. Jim
  • Ernie
    Ernie Member Posts: 94
    Hydro-trol

    Jim they have not given me one bit of trouble and would use them again if the opportunity arises. You can see three of them neatly tucked between the circ's the fourth is hidden.
  • jim P._2
    jim P._2 Member Posts: 28


    Nice. Are they installed on your returns?
  • Ernie
    Ernie Member Posts: 94


    No Jim, they are actually on the supply, the circ is comming down from a primary loop and makes a U turn and up and out to their respective zones. Works great.
  • Kal Row
    Kal Row Member Posts: 1,520
    cant seem to raise the b&g rep...

    everyone is at the ASHREE show in orlando

    i left this message on their site

    please go to heatinghelp.com and respond to this thread about a "checktrol" issue -lets see if they bite
    http://forums.invision.net/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=154660

    anyway: attached is the pdf from the taco 007ifc - same material names - but rated for 240 - so the plot thickens...
  • Kal Row
    Kal Row Member Posts: 1,520
    here is the gundfos...

    again same materials and 230f
    but they give you temps tables based on ambient air

    also they give you a nice min inlet pressure per temp table, they dont want you cavitating their pumps to death with hot water flashing into steam in the impelors inlet!!!
  • Kal Row
    Kal Row Member Posts: 1,520
    dont get it, if useing checktrol's - why the heat trap loops?

  • Ernie
    Ernie Member Posts: 94
    Kal

    Was not meant to be heat loop traps as they do not go down far enough before they turn up and out to the zones. If I open up the checks they will bleed hot water into the zones.
  • jim P._2
    jim P._2 Member Posts: 28
    They all (taco,grundfos, B&G checktrol) have

    > again same materials and 230f but they give you

    > temps tables based on ambient air

    >

    > also they

    > give you a nice min inlet pressure per temp

    > table, they dont want you cavitating their pumps

    > to death with hot water flashing into steam in

    > the impelors inlet!!!



  • jim P._2
    jim P._2 Member Posts: 28
    They (Taco,Grundfos,B&G checktrol) all have

    ACETAL as the limiting factor. According to the link for plastics the max. temp. is 180F for this plastic. How is it that these products are rated higher than this limiting factor. Do they go bad after X amount of time? There is a world of diference between 180 F and 200 F and/or 230F. I am just a homeowner but something is not right here. Jim
  • dan_21
    dan_21 Member Posts: 5


    The manufacturer of the check valve that is used in the Check-Trol, rates the check valve at a maximum temperature of 200 degree F at 150 PSI. We are comfortable using this device to the maximum temperature of 200 degree F.
    best regards,
    Dan Schaffer
    Bell & Gossett
  • Kal Row
    Kal Row Member Posts: 1,520
    can the check be reversed in the body...

    also is the ball valve full port?


    i use lots of ballvalves, spring checks, and flanges, and usually in succession - and usually with a drain ball valve - which would be a nice option

    Should you decide so add a purge port option - please cast it with multiple threaded bosses with plugs in the unused ones, (see pic below). With the raven-sales and webstone ones, i always manage to end up with the purge port facing upward

    Personally, I would cast a square block next to the ballvalve low enough so that the ballvalve handle can clear over it to the open position, and drill two ports, upward and downward, and plug one, and screw a long necked ballvalve purge to the other, this also has the advantage of not having the purge ports inline with the piping plane where it’s difficult to hook up a hose between the pipes
  • Kal Row
    Kal Row Member Posts: 1,520
    Ernie - did they come with a blank flange plate also??

  • Ernie
    Ernie Member Posts: 94
    Flange Plates

    Kal no blank flange plates on the Hydro-Trols checks.
  • Kal Row
    Kal Row Member Posts: 1,520
    any plans for bolt insulators...

    i have just about had it with large size dielectric unions - the plastic parts, crack and disintegrate from temperature swings, and then the union walks itself apart –
    how much could fiber bolt sleeves and washers cost already? – I do it now with heat shrink tubing and fiber washers – but it would be nice if someone sold a kit with,
    2 bolts same torque, and same 5/8 head but thinner, 11/16 nuts but with matching smaller inside threads, 4 half flanged sleeves and 4 washers, 2 lock washers

    see picture – also whatever happend to my request for movable, integral ball purge in front of the pipe plane also in pic
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