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Gorton Vents

Drew_5
Drew_5 Member Posts: 11
in THE MAIN WALL
Dan's book suggests that the size of the radiator should determine #size of the Gorton Vent, but Gorton advises to consider the distance from Boiler and also the Floor of the house. Which is more important? I've just switched all my vents to Gortons. (One #4, Ten #5's, Two #6's) based on Gorton suggestions, and I'm still getting a dramatic heat differential between first and second floor. Can you offer suggestion, or direct me to earlier threads that discusses this?

Comments

  • chuck_6
    chuck_6 Member Posts: 107
    Vent sizes

    Drew:

    We have all Gorton vents, and you may need to do some experimenting. Both the size of radiator and distance from thermostat and boiler matter. In the room with the thermostat you want to put a Gorton #4 (smallest opening). In rooms near the thermostat you may want to use a #5 or #6 (#6 if the radiator is large). Upstairs you probably want to go with the Gorton C and D (biggest opening).

    You should also check the vents on the main. Steamhead responds to all venting questions, and when he responds - listen to him. To save him some time, measure the length of each main and the diameter of the main as well. Steamhead can tell you what main vents you need. Hopefully you have insulation on the mains. You can measure the outside and say how thick the insulation is. Properly venting the main is very important and helps immensely with the venting of each radiator.

    In the meantime, speak to Ken at Gorton. If you both have time, describe each room (distance from thermostat and size of radiator), and also talk about your main vents. Ken can certainly help you. Gorton's phone number is (908) 276-1323.
    But it sounds like you may need some Cs and Ds to vent the air out faster.

    Chuck

  • Drew_5
    Drew_5 Member Posts: 11
    Vent and Temperature balance

    Thanks- Here's some more details....All of our radiators get heat, and everything is fully insulated, pitched properly, etc. Our Thermostat is set to constant temp of 68 degrees.

    Started off with #4 on Thermostat room(1rst floor), #5's on First Floor, #6's on Second Floor, and #C in Attic and Bathrooms. The second floor and attic were way too hot. (one room hit 80 degrees) so we switched to:

    #4 on Thermostat room, #5's on first floor, #5's on Second floor, and #6 in attic and Bathrooms.

    While less dramatic, we're still getting an 8 degree difference between upstairs and downstairs. SHould I consider 4's on the second floor? It seems that that would contradict all of Gorton's guidance.
  • Drew_5
    Drew_5 Member Posts: 11
    Gorton

    Chuck,

    Do you mind sharing what vent combo you are using?

    Thanks,

    Drew
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,385
    Drew, it might not be a venting problem

    If any radiators were removed from the first floor, it will throw the system out of balance. Check for radiator connections that have been plugged or capped off.

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  • Drew_5
    Drew_5 Member Posts: 11
    Radiators

    Thanks for the very quick reply....no radiators have been removed since originaly installed, however, one Cast Iron Convector radiator (all the others are identical sized regular sectional radiators) was added 40 years ago, on a small addition off of the back of the house.
  • Drew_5
    Drew_5 Member Posts: 11
    No Vents on Main.....

    OK, I inspected the Main Pipes and saw there are no vents on the main pipe. I photographed the area I think I should install them, but would like some opinion on whether or not these should be the right places. I attached some photos and I think they should be placed before the main pipe turns down to the Wet Return pipe. Correct? Pictures are labeled
  • TGO_54
    TGO_54 Member Posts: 327
    second floor too hot

    Depending on the age of the house, second floor bedrooms may have been sized with the windows open. You may have to slow the venting way down if this is the case. You way also want to consider TRV's in the hottest rooms.

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  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,385
    You definitely need main vents

    Measure the length and diameter of each main and we can tell you what you need.

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    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
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    Consulting
  • Drew_5
    Drew_5 Member Posts: 11
    Vents/PSI

    In inspecting my system, I noticed the PSI was at 12 (way too high as per this site) and I notched it down to .5 - 2.5 Without Main Vents installed yet, will the pressure be relieved from the system, or will I have a problem reducing this pressure? Despite the boiler saying max PSI 20, am I in a dangerous situation at 12???
  • Drew_5
    Drew_5 Member Posts: 11
    Main Pipe Measurements

    One Main Pipe emerges from the boiler and splits into Two (with third added for addition), with the following measurements:
    #1 Main length= 16' w/ 6 radiator branches Diameter= 2 1/2
    #2 Main length= 30' w/ 5 radiator branches Diameter= 2 1/2
    #3 Added Radiator, 30' of pipe leading directly from Boiler to one radiator going to addition. 2" Diameter

    All radiator branch pipes are 1 1/2 inches in diameter.
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