SolaRoll heating question.

George Peteya_2

I may be able top help you ... email me at gpeteya@slantfin.com.

Tharon

SolaRoll installation tool

I have developed a leak where the rubber tubes enter the copper manifold. Do you know where I can get the special tool for reinserting the rubber tube into the copper manifold? Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
Tharon

Tharon

SolaRoll installation tool

I have developed a leak where the rubber tubes enter the copper manifold. Do you know where I can get the special tool for reinserting the rubber tube into the copper manifold? Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
Tharon

Sweet_2

RE inserting

tubing. In my opinion find a different manifold system that you can make some mechanically sound joints consisting of a hybrid solder and IPS by barbed connection. Watts makes a manifold system that works well Im sure there are others as well, or make your own with copper fittings the only problem with this approach is soldered tees take up a lot more space.

Terry Larsell

SolaRoll oxy barrier

I'm looking at a boiler replacement job that has two manifolds that look like what is being described here. Small diameter rubber tubing that plugs into a copper manifold.

Is this SolaRoll? Does it have an oxygen barrier? Will it last?

IN this house they ran the loops at 180 deg and they seem to work OK. I'm wondering if that high of temp is needed and if I should try to isolated these loops from the rest of the system which will have an oxy barrier or abandon them altogether.

Terry

Sweet_2

I wouldnt

abandon tubing. No it has no oxygen barrier. Tubing will eventually develop pinhole leaks, These leaks are easy to repair as long as there above grade(obviously). I dont see any reason to isolate either.180* is to hot,140* should be sufficient. Will it last? 12 to 15 years is what Im seeing.

hr

I'd highly

recommend you isolate SR from the boiler or use all non ferrous components. It does allow a lot of O2 ingress.

hot rod

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Tharon

I posted the original add. It has been in my house for 25 years without a leak exept where a nail was driven into it. Does anyone have a rubber tube inserting tool I could rent or buy?
Thanks
Tjudd@ussynthetic.com

hr

If you

don't have to mess with the manifold, and just need an inline splice. I buy 1/4" brass barbed hose couplings and these nylon toothed clamps. Find them at any automotive supply store.

In a bind 1/4" copper tube works also, but no barbs.

hot rod

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hr

This is a solar roll manifold and

a cut a way view. Also the air nozzle we built to clear out plugged lines.

hot rod

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Sweet_2

If the problem

is that the hose &plastic insert have started to leak at the manifold youll find it quite difficult if not impossible to reinsert hose, chances are youll begin seeing more of the same from other connections . Installing a new manifold will make life a little easier in the long run. Good luck.By the way hot rod is right (whats new) you should isolate SR especially if this is a new C.I. boiler I dont remember your original post.

hr

Plenty of ways

to build new manifolds if the leaks are at that connection. Watts Radiant, Sioux Chief, and virtually all the radiant manufacture offer copper stub or socket manifolds. All you need is that 1/4" barb adapter. I have also found them at welding supply houses. It's a common size for small torch hose fittings.

This is a Watts custom cut base branch manifold, also the early TwinTran sweat by 1/4" barb connector and early Twintran and clamp.

Sometimes I run across that Solaroll that has become brittle and splits when you try to shove barbed fittings into it. I think UV gets to it in some cases. How does yours feel when you pinch it between your fingers. If it feels hard, crunchy, or brittle, guess what:)

hot rod

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