w/m gold gv6 flow problem????????????????

joe_14

i was asked to go look at a weil mclain gold gv6 boiler. i havent worked on to many of these. the problem is cant seem to get enough heat. internal circ is running but returns are not getting hot. when i purge water comes around hot. when i stop purging the returns get only luke warm.boiler temp on the gauge on the supply is reading 180 degrees. there are seven zones all running off the internal circ. my feeling is that i need another circ on supply side. there six heating zones and an amtrol zone,which is not on priority. could the internal mixing valve be causing this problem.
any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance



joeg.

hr

Depending on the vintage

some models have a 3 way thermostatic valve under the hood. These do stick from time to time. I believe it is a Hoffman brand and it has a big square headed plug to remove the cartridge.

hot rod

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lchmb

curious

I don't have any literature on the 6. How similiar is this to the 4? Does it have a mixing valve of some sort or a mixing circulator?

hr

Depends on the year

I have a GV3 in my home, about 10 years old. it has the 3 way. I think they have gone to an injection pump, like the Burnham Revolution, in leiu of the mixer. Not sure how long ago they switched. Lift the upper cover to find out

I've installed dozens of the early GV golds. A bulletproof boiler in my opinion. Mine, even in a messy laundry room (lint) enviroment, hasn't missed a beat. I haven't even replaced the ignitor!! And it runs year round with an indirecrt tank attached. I hope the new condensors I am installing come close to this reliability

hot rod

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joe_14

mixing valve

hi hot rod

you are correct it does a hoffman mixing with the large plug on top. do you feel this could be the problem and that the internal circ can handle the load.can i remove the plug and clean the cartridge.


thanks again joeg.

lchmb

ok

I have yet to see one with the mixing valve. I would think that if this system has been running ok up till now that it is not in need of another circulator. Unless of course the system circulator is failing which mean's it need's to be replaced. I would look closer at the mixing valve or the GV control. Seem's to me the problem would be somewhere in that area...

joe_14

how do


i go about checking mixing valve can i take it apart and clean or can i replace the cartidge.
thanks joeg.

Wild Bill

W/M GV

Joe,

Contact your local Weil McLain rep, they have a "fix" for the mixing valve on the early GV boilers, but please bear in mind that it involves removing the hex plug from the mixing valve. I was just at a job with an old GV with identical problems. I went with the local Weil rep, we could NOT (two foot pipe wrench, a persuader nipple and two guys) get the hex plug out of the mixing valve. The rep gave me a good deal on a new GV boiler......we are changing it out later this week.

Good Luck,
Wild Bill (Go Patriots)

joe_14

do you


have the name and number of a rep for the n.h. area

thanks joeg.

tim smith

Thermostatic element

We have replace quite a few of them on the GV and I think also on some of the Burnham models. pretty easy, just did one about 2 weeks ago. I think it was a Taco element on the Burnham. If the boiler is getting hot internally and not allowing any out then pretty sure that's what your up against. PS, call Weil Mclain and they will tell you who the local rep is, also they can give you the part# while your at it.

hr

A boiler cleaner

MAY help if the spool is stuck or stickey. The wax elements DO go bad, and this is an open 'er up case.

Tap around that valve with a couple hammers, one to tap, one to back up. Just as you loosen a "frozen" fitting.

You can also heat around the valve, if you plan on a rebuild. Just be careful of the insulation and wiring.

Might be easiest to have a new valve on hand if you plan on getting rowdy with the big guns Think I would remove it before I over wrenched. Hate to see you break something else, like a casting port connection

hot rod

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Doug Wagoner

No circulator external to the boiler?

Joe, the instructions with my W/M-GV-4 specifically stated that the pump inside the boiler was not to be used as the main zone pump.

Paul Brockfeld_2

weil-mclain gv mixing valve technical services bulletin

Following is the text for the W-M Technical Services Bulletin on the GV-series mixing valve. It is available at www.weil-mclain.com. The mixing valve element is obsolete however I have one left on the shelf. E-mail me if you need it. Hope this helps.

Number: SB0401R1 (Page 1 of 1)Date: February 25, 2004Subject: GV Mixing Valve Repair – for Model GV Gas Boilers Series 1 & 2 Only (Rev 1) (This information is only required if it is determined that mixing valve needs replacement.) Weil-McLain Model GV Series 1 & 2 boilers utilize a mixing valve arrangement as part of the internal piping in the boiler. Repair parts for both the mixing valve and mixing valve element for GV Series 1 & 2 boilers are no longer available from their suppliers. As a result, alternative repair methods have been developed to help resolve the non-availability of these repair parts. Note that the GV Series 3 and GV Series 4 boilers are not affected by this situation since they use a bypass circulator instead of a mixing valve to help maintain the temperature in the boiler. For Model GV Series 1 & 2 boiler installations where the system return water is consistently above 130°F, the GV mixing valve spring and element can be removed and the bypass plugged as follows Note: For radiant systems or large water volume systems (such as with cast iron radiators) where boiler return water temperature can consistently remain below 130°F, follow the instructions shown below entitled “GV Series 1 & 2 Boiler Bypass for Systems with Low Return Water Temperatures”. For GV Series 1 – System return water temperature consistently over 130°F If a repair is required on the mixing valve/element on a Model GV Series 1 that has a system return water temperature that is consistently over 130°F, plug the mixing valve bypass as follows: 1. Turn boiler off and let it cool to 100°F or lower. 2. Drain the boiler so that water level in the boiler is below the mixing valve. 3. While holding the mixing valve body to keep it from turning, remove the cap plug on top of the mixing valve. (If the mixing valve cap plug cannot be removed, carefully cut mixing valve from piping, replace piping with iron or copper piping and plug ½” bypass tee that was connected to bottom of mixing valve. Skip steps 4-7. Go to steps 8 & 9 below.) 4. Remove the spring and element inside the mixing valve. 5. Insert a ½” nominal copper sweat cap by turning the cap upside down and inserting into the opening in the bottom of the mixing valve. 6. Using a hammer and a punch with a diameter to fit inside the upturned copper cap, tap the ½” nominal copper sweat cap into the bottom mixing valve opening. Tap the cap until it is firmly seated into the opening. 7. Replace the cap plug on top of the mixing valve and tighten securely. 8. Re-fill boiler and purge the air from the boiler and system. 9. Turn on boiler and test for proper operation. For GV Series 2 – System return water temperature consistently over 130°F If a repair is required on the mixing valve/element on a Model GV Series 2 that has a system return water temperature that is consistently over 130°F, plug the mixing valve bypass as follows: 1. Turn boiler off and let it cool to 100°F or lower. 2. Drain the boiler so that water level in the boiler is below the mixing valve. (con’t on page 2) www.weil-mclain.com.

boiler_bum

GV6 boilers

I've been living with a GV6 for 23yrs. and have been in the service industry for 35yrs.. The GV's have had there quirts mostly because they weren't understood.. As long as the parameter's were followed with the install and service setup they ran for many years, Mine does not have a mixing valve. it has a manual crossover valve just outside of the boiler. The valve is adjusted to above 130 degrees after the unit has ran for a while and settled out.  We have a 4000 sqft house with 3 zones of radiant and the unit has plenty to spare. The mixing valve is a norm in the industry and needs to include in the service instructions, the need for a couple of 5 foot pipe wrenches to open. Many years ago I started opening these and applying antiseize to the threads before installing them.. heat was tough on them.