Buderus115/DV w/ Carlin

kevin coppinger_4 · January 2005

I have emailed Buderus but they are probably swaped with more pressing matters....I have installed two 115-28 boilers, Direct vents, each with Carlin ez1 burner and the seperate vent(aerocowl) and intake(one has the intake Fields vrv and 1 not). I went with the seperate hoods due to cross contamination concerns. The homes are next to each other for the same contractor..All set up to the latest specs from Calin & Buderus...Sat AM I get a call that one has stopped working...I look at the outdoor temp...-12F! After getting there it had locked out due to the Homeowner hitting reset 3 times. I pulled off the intake to get the warmer basement air to the burner thinking that it was the cold causing the fuel to gel...sure enough it lit off no problems...I left it that way for now...As I am coming upstairs the Contractor meets me at the top of the stairs saying they are having the same problem nextdoor...same temp. solution.left the intake detached on the floor...I can't leave it this way and I can't tell the homeowner " when it gets real cold take the intake off"....I know put in a chimney! Not my call...

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kevin coppinger_4 · January 2005

Heres the scoop...

I have emailed Buderus but they are probably swaped with more pressing matters....I have installed two 115-28 boilers, Direct vents, each with Carlin ez1 burner and the seperate vent(aerocowl) and intake(one has the intake Fields vrv and 1 not). I went with the seperate hoods due to cross contamination concerns. The homes are next to each other for the same contractor..All set up to the latest specs from Calin & Buderus...Sat AM I get a call that one has stopped working...I look at the outdoor temp...-12F! After getting there it had locked out due to the Homeowner hitting reset 3 times. I pulled off the intake to get the warmer basement air to the burner thinking that it was the cold causing the fuel to gel...sure enough it lit off no problems...I left it that way for now...As I am coming upstairs the Contractor meets me at the top of the stairs saying they are having the same problem nextdoor...same temp. solution.left the intake detached on the floor...I can't leave it this way and I can't tell the homeowner " when it gets real cold take the intake off"....I know put in a chimney! Not my call...

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J.C.A._3 · January 2005

Kevin,

Maybe make the intake runs longer so they can get some heat from the space before going through the burner? As this is a positive pressure system, I think there are probably limitations to the lenth on the intake.

Someone else here suggested sort of a reverse intercooler (an inter warmer?) to get some heat going through the burner during shut down periods. Air dampers have proved to be failures in all but a few cases, (See:Riello, they were there, they were gone, they came back run by electricity but Buderus hasn't yet spec'd them....)I would like to see some type of air damper but would like to have it attached with an adjustable post-purge timer, so we could be sure that all products of combustion were totally removed before it shut off the air currents. Nozzle line heaters work well while taking air from inside, but just can't keep up with convective air currents when it gets as cold as we've been seeing lately. (Keep up good thoughts, I just saw that we might see some above freezing temps. on Saturday!)

I know what I'd like to see but maybe can't explain it too well. Chris

kevin coppinger_4 · January 2005

Joe K. got back...

to me... Thanks Joe! I will try to prop open up the VRV to let in more warm air. You almost need to put a little Pelonis heater on the metal intake pipe.....maybe a 220V nozzle heater...LOL. kpc

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Jim Robinson_2 · January 2005

Buderus 115/DV in the cold

I have 4 on an Island that do the same every year and in Dec we have to disconnect the fresh air or they will not light when it gets below 0. And being on an island we can not get out there at night. I also have an outside noise issue with the chimney vented Buderus especially the 215 do you also have issue with this?

Todd_9 · January 2005

Direct vent

I was having a similar stuation recently also. Same model boiler but with the BF3 Riello. I put my hand on the intake pipe - close to 20ft with the elbows, and it was super cold. We spread the electrodes out a little and it seemed to help. I had thought of taking some pex and making a bypass from the supply to return while wrapping it around the intake several times. This would look weird but may be a solution. We had cut down the air to the burner and it helped but these can't be left with a #1 smoke.

Larry_10 · January 2005

this is one reason I use a swg stainless steel power Venter
I don't have burner problems or anything it's not noisy
and I have had one on my old forced air furnace for 3 years with no problems now I have a new g115-28 with a riello f3 burner and a new power Venter it's worked good all year so far and has melted the snow under it

what you must do with power venters is oil them 2-3 times per year I now have to use it in the summer because I got the lt160 tank so I may add a few drops in the summer

but if it were me id use a power Venter if you cant have a chimney

the black was when the boiler was new it made the black in the grass but it's ok now runs nice and clean

thanks

kevin coppinger_4 · January 2005

Jim ...you must have....

a Riello buner on the 215. That's typical. Not a problem unless you are outside in the winter...
--Back to the 115dv I am wondering if a solution would be to instead of a 8148 aquastat to go the tankless route to keep the boiler a bit warmer? The 3 pass boiler HATE being cold at startup! Lots of pulsing. Joe @ Buderus suggest. making a U shape in the line to keep it warmer and crack open the VRV..I suppose it also would help to put the VRV right at the burner intake... Allfuel chimneys are looking better! Too bad you couldn't use B-vent. kpc

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boilerworks · January 2005

Air intake

A longer run of intake pipe will help some.

Holding the VR-1 open will allow cold air which is denser than the room air to dump into the space. This will cool the space surrounding the boiler/burner and will not allow the air within the pipe to warm up as it is constantly flowing. True that it will dilute the intake air with room air. I would worry about dumping lots of cold air into a space that is not well heated especially with lots of plumbing near by. Also a lock-out with this approach would have serious consequences due to the potential of a freeze up.

You could try hanging a 40-60w work light from the intake piping to warm the air near the intake. The light will act like a small heater and will accelerate the heating of the air within the intake piping. It will also slow down the air leakage around the VR-1 damper by creating a temperature rise in the pipe thus causing air to flow out rather than in until the blower starts.

kevin coppinger_4 · January 2005

I was instructed...

to leave that open...I cracked the intake boot and that seemed to help too...you are correct, a small heat source on the pipe would be best.Not real practical for the homeowner. I will move the VRV to the burner and make the intake longer..maybe even lash it to the exaust! kpc

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boilerworks · January 2005

Worth a try ?

Here's another idea (untested) to try -

Remove the VRV and replace with a simple tee near the burner. The tee provides two sources of intake for the burner, outside and inside air as with the VRV. On the inside connection run a piece of pipe (perhaps flexible tubing like aluminum dryer vent) up to a spot near the ceiling (above the level of the intake). Cap the end with an intake screen to prevent debris from being sucked in. Now you will be constantly mixing inside air with outside air and the outside air with not freely dump into the room as it is heavier and should not rise above the level of the intake.

I think this will work nicely and it's relatively simple to do.