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Please CHECK your dryer vents!

ed_19
ed_19 Member Posts: 14
in THE MAIN WALL
I have run a couple of vents using Sch 40 PVC and SDR 35 PVC. The PVC has a smooth wall and will not corrode due to damp air. I use a duct seal and tape on the joints. Joints can be glued in place or dry fit together. I have found that the smaller sheet metal screws work well to hold sch 40 together as the tip does not go all of the way through the wall of the pipe. I try to use long sweeps where possible.
I guess I'm just a plumber that does HVAC work
Does anyone see a problem with the PVC dryer vent?
I even got an engineer to approve the use.

Comments

  • John Shea
    John Shea Member Posts: 247
    Friday, I got a call from an old friend.

    He asked for my help in an emergency. Turns out, the pastor at his church had a fire in his home caused by lint in the dryer vent. Fortunately no one was hurt and structural damage to his house was limited to two rooms. However, all of his belongings were damaged via smoke and/or water. What a mess!

    I was able to restore elec. gas & water within an hour or so. His Rheem hot-water boiler (man it's tiny) fired right up and began to heat the house right away.

    Just wanted to drop a reminder to everyone to check their dryers. Please be safe.

    God Bless.

    PS. you'd think that with all the technology we have today, that someone would have developed a 'safe' dryer vent. Maybe hot rod could come up with a 'hydronic' clothes drier?
  • John Shea
    John Shea Member Posts: 247
    duplicate

  • John Shea
    John Shea Member Posts: 247
    dup

  • Constantin
    Constantin Member Posts: 3,796
    Yup...

    ...cleaning dryer flues should be on everyone's annual PM list, particularly if it's not the smooth-wall variety. Corrugated Al (or gawd-help-you, spiral plastic) is excellent at accumulating the stuff and causing a nice little fire from time to time.

    I had an interesting experience yesterday when faced with a frozen dryer vent terminal. However, it wasn't completely blocked and the dryer soon cleared a substantial area around the house of all snow.

    However, some snow had gotten into the terminal, which was more than a bit disconcerting to listen to (and see) getting cleared on startup.

    In the new house, everything is different... the dryer vent is not only 10' above ground (goodbye snow), but the vent piping is smooth as well. This should limit lint accumulation significantly.
  • Constantin
    Constantin Member Posts: 3,796
    PVC in this application scares me...

    ... under "normal" operating conditions, you are likely going to be fine. However, should the contents of the piping ever catch fire, you're likely going to be in a world of pain.

    I would only use smooth-wall Aluminum, or better yet, stainless pipe for dryer venting. Either option is far more resistant to burning contents and may contain the fire to the point where fire damage will be minimized, particularly if the pipe and vent terminals are insulated in walls, etc. with appliance-grade fiberglass/rockwool.

    However, the biggest insurance against dryer vent fires is still vigiliance with the lint screen in the dryer, coupled with annual cleanings of the dryer vent and the appliance itself. The latter is very rare, but I hope to do it in the new house...
  • Larry_10
    Larry_10 Member Posts: 127


    The contractor who built our house did a terrible job with our dryer vent. Too many bends, and used the wrong type of vent materials. Eventually a squirrel damaged the vent termination and the duct where it was connected so the dryer was venting into our attic. I needed to do something fast, so I rigged up a temporary setup using 4" galvanized steel hard duct running in the attic and out a side wall. The duct was insulated to prevent condensation. Just for grins I did a test placing an Oregon Scientific wireless temp/humidity sensor in the duct and ran a load of clothing through the dryer and logged the readings. Just wanted to be 100% sure I was staying well above the dew point. Anyway, after using the setup for 3 months now I decided to do an inspection and opened up the duct at the one 90 degree elbow. It's amazing how much lint has already started to accumulate in the hard pipe. I'm beginning to think twice a year cleanings make sense. This experience has also made me appreciate how nice it is to have direct access to the ducting for cleanout inspite of the negative aspect of running it through a cold attic.
  • Dr Pepper
    Dr Pepper Member Posts: 38
    Filter

    I tore out my long steel (ragged edge of acceptable length) duct and replaced it with new steel vent simply because it could not be cleaned. Ever since, I have been thinking how to build a "basket strainer" for the lint. The sorry screen in the dryer is good for the big pieces but a second filter would keep the duct clean longer. How do you CLEAN your dryer vent pipe?
    Thanks,
    Art
  • Weezbo
    Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
    basically.i dont:) i use a hang the clothes all over the place

    method *~/:) i use my dryer for a storage bin for toilet paper and paper towels:) sortta like a night stand and safe for the TP :)
  • jim sokolovic
    jim sokolovic Member Posts: 439
    Cold T.P....

    Weezbo, if I forget to take the towels out of the dryer right after they are done - they feel real cold, this time of year! I'm with you on the clothesline, though - why not use the boiler jacket heat emmitted to save on the dryer energy use and wear?
  • Larry_10
    Larry_10 Member Posts: 127


    I use a combination of a dryer vent brush (http://www.improvementscatalog.com/Parent.asp product=131839x&dept%5Fid=1) to loosen the lint, and then blow it out the end with a leaf blower.
  • Dale
    Dale Member Posts: 1,317
    Listing

    A normal running dryer has a 150 degree vent temp, what is the max temp of that pvc or even cpvc? Does the dryer install instructions give pvc as a listed material, does the dryer mfg allow it, how does the pvc withstand the high clorine found in dryer sheets? no to all counts and that't the reason it isn't used, too great a fire risk.
  • Dale
    Dale Member Posts: 1,317
    Different dryers

    If you buy a new dryer you may look in to the ones rated for the longer vent option. With all the condos the dryer mfg have upped the allowed vent length. No one allows sheet metal screws to hold the pipe together, the alum tape and a band clamp is the safest. Single wall can be purchased in 8 foot lengths to lessen connections.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    What about copper ?

    Other than being fairly expensive , wouldn't DWV grade be a good choice ? Dry fit of course , and a little aluminum tape on the joints .
  • Susan_6
    Susan_6 Member Posts: 42
    Try eBay

    I put in a bid on eBay for one -- they have a lot and a few styles.

    Thanks to heatinghelp.com I have a CO detector, steam pipe mega-insulation, TRVs on order and now dryer vent cleaning! I'm warmer and safer.
  • Constantin
    Constantin Member Posts: 3,796
    Yeah, why not...

    ... copper should be resistant enough to open flames inside. Other choices include some of the stainless vent piping that get installed into chimneys and the like. Some of them are warrented to work even after a creosote fire, so a little lint conflagration here and there should be peanuts by comparison.
  • Sweet_2
    Sweet_2 Member Posts: 143
    I dont think

    PVC is a smart choice. Single Wall vent pipe, no screws mini mal 90s is the way to go.IMHO
  • Nick_16
    Nick_16 Member Posts: 79
    I like the idea

    I think it is a good idea. About Hot Rod making some sort of Hydronic clothes dryer. He is very talented with that bed frame! LOL
  • Larry_10
    Larry_10 Member Posts: 127


    There was a thread about hydronic clothes dryers several months ago...

    http://forums.invision.net/Thread.cfm?CFApp=2&&Message_ID=128940&_#Message128940
This discussion has been closed.

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