Hey Oil Burner Guys!

Jaitch

I'm having way too many callbacks when the burner is off on saftey, resets, lights right up and passes the usual tests. We always have that choice- motor, transfomer, control, etc.

Any thoughts on how to sort this out without resorting to
A. The On-Watch device or
B. Change 'em all

Just Curious:

JAITCH

jim sokolovic

I'm sure...

you're going to get some book reading suggestions - the answer to this would be an awfully long, otherwise! I guess some assorted tips might cover your inquiry partially, though - I still find alot of oil lines that need to be blown out, even with the little field service I still do.

Joe Grosso

Frist of all are you using a meter to test the cad cell eye,relay and ignitor.Use gauges for oil pump and oil line.Also are you checking the motor for bad start switch on old style burner.Also check for voltage drop could cause problems.Give us alittle more info please.

Mitch_4

oil burner

If I read you post correctly, the primary is tripping the reset. I am assuming it is a 8184 or some similar type one shot reset. These typically only trip on the cad cell not "seeing the flame".
All other safeties kill the power to the primary control. So the problem is confined to the burner.

What burner are you using? and what are the readings you get?

Jaitch

The Specs....

Beckett AF or AFG with an R8184G or R7184G - annual tune up performed recently. Oilfilter changed, tank valve flushed, oil line flushed, pump screen serviced or replaced, nozzle line & tube flushed, nozzle replaced, pump set at 100 psi with 85 psi cutoff (& holding) - glazed porcelains looking great, gap set with Beckett's gauge (along with Z dimension check), cad cell resistance measured under 800 ohms, 0 smoke, 12% CO2, -.02 DOF. PS: The fire looks great, too!

Sometimes we have the "phantom lockout". So far the Power company has not put me "in the know" where they are having brownouts, but, of course, when we get there 125VAC OK!

Transformer checks performed three ways, screwdriver between posts and posts to ground (don't do this at home) and secondary voltage checked to be 10,000 with the meter that weighs twice what an iron core transformer weighs. Sometimes, if I hold my finger on the button until my finger turns blue, I will catch the transformer breaking down under service, but that's not the main area of trouble.

Either the motor or the control, I guess. How do you check for a bad start switch in a sleeve bearing motor? (I do like the cap starts, but there's a awful lot of old motors still around)

Seems like too much guesswork to decide to change either the control or the motor, Murphy's Law sez no matter which one you decide - you'll be back!

Been an oil co tech for 22 years, and this one still trips me up and I'm tired of it.

Your suggestions will shed some light on a point or two I am missing, I sure.

Thanks - JAITCH

Mitch_4

okay..

All the reads look good, so we are looking at the odd things. Testing the end switch involves removing the motor, and connecting the OHM meter to the motor leads. You should get 3-4 ohms. Then slowly rotate the blower wheel while pulling the shaft in and out as you rotate it. Do 2 complete turns. If the read jumps to 7-8 ohms, the end switch could be the problem. If it checks out ok, I would hook the vaccum guage up and see the vacuum you are puling. Anything more than 6" and you might be separating the air in the oil which will cause flame failure. If you have an outdoor tank, it may be colder oil causing the pump to pull a greater vacuum. Tigerloop or preheater may help.

Also on the transformer, was the arc a nice blue/white? or golden. If its golden it may be a problem. These transformers are centertap. Take your OHM meter and do each terminal to ground. The difference should be less than 15%. So if you get say 700 Ohms from one terminal to ground, the other should be in the 595 to 805 ohm range. Also the resistance from one terminal to the other should be les than 2000 total.

Keep us posted.

M.

Joe Grosso

One more trick.Get a 1500 ohm resistor can buy at any radio shack and take of wires on ff and turn on burner,then put each end of resistor on both ff and tighten down screws.burner should keep running if it goes into lockout bad relay period.

lchmb

one or two other tricks 8184

Check the voltage across f-f with the unit running...you should register 3.2 to 3.4 volts. With the unit off it should be 0. Another trick is with the unit running for a minute give the control a tap with a screwdriver. It should be able to hold and if it drop's out replace it...:)

curiousity kills

test

Burner moter should run at 2 amps.

Glenn Harrison_2

Cut and paste this link

for some excellent info on burner motor testing.

http://www.beckettcorp.com/scripts/filesearch/techinfo/664828.shtml

Jaitch

Many Thanks

So many good responses, we just ran some sample start switch tests and a few other things that were mentioned to check them out. Even after 22 years, I'm living proof that you can teach an old dog new tricks, if the dog is willing to listen! The most powerful tool you own - is your mind!

Many thanks - JAITCH

Glen

oil delay solenoid -

this sounds very familiar as I had the same burner with the same level (high) of frustration. Ultimately it was the oil delay solenoid that would - as it's whim decided - close. Instant lockout. Pump pressure always checked out on a static test - was finally noticed during real run time testing of oil delivery pressures.

Rookie_3

Had one similar and I found the coupling was slipping.

Dan