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Boilers on blocks

bob_44
bob_44 Member Posts: 112
In a recent thread there were some comments on raising a boiler up on blocks. I was taught not to do that unless the boiler has a continious solid bottom, otherwise you will affect the secondary air and change CO2. Any opinions? bob

Comments

  • gerry gill
    gerry gill Member Posts: 3,078
    I believe you are correct

    however if a boiler has to be raised , then it must be raised..the site requirements are not and cannot be anticpated by the manufacturer..altho nothing stops the contractor from using enough blocks to simulate a floor..
    gwgillplumbingandheating.com
    Serving Cleveland's eastern suburbs from Cleveland Heights down to Cuyahoga Falls.

  • eleft_4
    eleft_4 Member Posts: 509
    Boilers on blocks

    What does this have to do with using the blocks as they were designed to be used?.

    Reading is a virtue!
  • gerry gill
    gerry gill Member Posts: 3,078
    nothing- you are also correct, eleft

    your right also, the blocks if used should be installed right ways..that was a good visual catch on your part by the way...I would have missed that..
    gwgillplumbingandheating.com
    Serving Cleveland's eastern suburbs from Cleveland Heights down to Cuyahoga Falls.

  • kevin coppinger_4
    kevin coppinger_4 Member Posts: 2,124
    It depends...

    on the type...if it gas and the bottom is not sealed up probably. Not so for oil boilers, most all are wet base.kpc

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  • Weezbo
    Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
    blocks are good :)

  • kevin coppinger_4
    kevin coppinger_4 Member Posts: 2,124
    I agree....

    I always get boilers off the floor. It looks better and it makes service easier. kpc

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  • jeff_25
    jeff_25 Member Posts: 110
    blocks

    we used to use a cement pad that ac would sit on but hard to find a supply houses they all went to plastic or the foam filled slabs the cement on were great in old house in milwaukee were the floor would pitch 6-8in to the floor drain just level the pad or even put blocks under pad
  • On atmospheric gas

    equipment that brings air in from underneath the equipment has to be installed at the height designed. If blocks are going to be used then it should cover the full bottom area of the equipment.

    My testing over the years has shown that it definitely can cause combustion problems and even contribute to pilot outage on standing pilot systems.

    A test I often use is to fire the equipment with bottom elevated and do a combustion analysis. Then slide a full piece of sheetmetal large enough to cover the full open area. The changes in combustion figures and reduction in CO will convince you that this is not a good practice to leave the bottom elevated and uncovered.
  • Michele
    Michele Member Posts: 28
    My Boiler on Blocks

    It was my initial post about my boiler install that prompted this thread. My understanding from these comments is that raising the boiler changes changes the combustion process and can result in higher CO emissions? Please confirm. Sounds like a safety issue to me.

    My contractor insists that it is ok to put the boiler on blocks (see attached pic) despite the fact that Weil-Mclain's installation manual recommends that it be put on a level pad/floor. But the installer said he called WM and WM told him it was ok to be put up on blocks. HELP!
  • eleft_4
    eleft_4 Member Posts: 509
    Blocks

    You have a safety issue because of the way the blocks are set on their side, no strength, can collapse.
    Either set them up , holes vertical, or fill the holes with semi dry concrete mix.

    Timmie is the Guru of Gas, listen up!

    Handle with care until you correct blocks, I don't think that boiler can hang from the Piping.

    al
  • jim walls_3
    jim walls_3 Member Posts: 31
    blocks

    I agree with al, the blocks should be flipped, more installed & filled, if you want to see why this is a concern. Get another block, sit it with the holes up, just as you would install it in a wall, and strike the block on top, you may chip it but you will not crumble it,,,,,,,then strike it on the end of the hollow section & watch it collapse,,,,,,,,,,it has no strentgh as it is installed under your boiler, I hope this makes sense,,,,,,,it is similar to trying to split a 2x4 board lengthwise vs. striking one, installed vertically, like in a wall and striking the center of the board, you could hit the 2x4 all day on the end and all you will accomplish is chips and wearing out your arm strike it on the side once or twice & you will probably break in 2,,,,,,,,,,,
  • David_5
    David_5 Member Posts: 250
    Blocks are the wrong way

    You never see blocks installed that way when they are used to build a wall. Once I went to a job where the oil tank was on blocks the way your boiler is. One block colapsed and the tank fell over after being filled. I wouldn't wish that on anyone.

    David
  • Weezbo
    Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
    That is not the way to go....on a boiler with blocks....

    the Blocks need to be complete with the "Handels "up! and "capped" with pavers..That way they supply a fairly stable base. and if your 'into' it, filling them with vermiculite and placing a plenum covering the blocks and bolted to the floor,with an angle iron frame with all thread running side to side to keep it in alignement ,with the supply run out and fastened to a wall and the return run out and fastened to another...will pretty much cover most of the bases...(at least i never had a call back for that particular job.) seriously that was a bit of over kill however i get kinda defensive from time to time...whatever...:) remember Handels up and capped with pavers..
  • Joel M
    Joel M Member Posts: 64


    I am a homeowner, not an expert. When I had my weil mclein oil fired boiler installed in '93, I told the heating contractor that I wanted it on solid concrete blocks in case of any kind of water leak or sewer backup. He said fine. I have never had any problems and no service man has ever said anything about them being there. Just my 2 cents.
  • Jaitch
    Jaitch Member Posts: 68
    I'm done praying to the oil-burner gods

    on my knees hours and hours on end.

    A good cast iron boiler of wet base design set CORRECTLY on blocks (you'se guys have some points about setting blocks) can let me work from my 5 gallon bucket/stool or the homeowner's easy chair.

    Makes it nice for the homeowner and easier on me :>)
  • wm on blocks

    besides the blocks being on the wrong side....

    A WM EG boiler needs to have a SOLID base at the right height. WIth additional disatnce of open space below the boiler you will get enough air going through the boiler that the additional draft WILL pull the flame off the burner tubes and actually pull the pilot off the pilot assembly (causing a re-light situation).

    A simple piece of sheet metal across the top of the blocks will fix the draft problem and simulate the floor.

    skw
  • Dale
    Dale Member Posts: 1,317
    WM instructions

    WM used to show a base make of regular non solid bricks wired together and a sheet metal top. That way you have the solid base and one that's easy to haul in and it keeps the metal off the floor.
  • Michele
    Michele Member Posts: 28


    Thanks....mine whole boiler rests on just two cinder blocks....one on each side.
  • eleft_4
    eleft_4 Member Posts: 509
    Mickey.


    Do It Yourself, go to your home center, buy a bag of Concrete mix, a small trowel and a pail. Mix a small stiff batch and fill the holes in the block. It's your boiler!

    Better safe than sorry,

    al
  • Michele
    Michele Member Posts: 28
    Good News - it is fixed

    The original installer is coming to pour a solid concrete floor underneath the boiler - will leave the blocks in place and frame it to the size recommended by the WM install manual. Thanks for all your help. The installer has also agreed to correct all my near piping issues....then I can get on to the business of pinpointing other system issues.
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