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BaseBoard Or Buderus Panal Radiators

Larry_10
Larry_10 Member Posts: 127
I just put in a new buderus Boiler and dhw and now im adding a new addition to my house and need to heat it.

what would be the best to use for that end of my house?

buderus panel Radiators
or
suntemp baseboards

this will be for a master bedroom and 1 new bathroom

I have 1 hydro air zone one baseboard zone and now I will need another zone I will also be upgrading from the r2109 to the r2107

thanks

Comments

  • Jim Eastman_2
    Jim Eastman_2 Member Posts: 27
    Buderus panel rads

    Put the panel rads in with non-electric thermostats. I did this on my house where I don't have the radiant floors and these units are nearly as comfortable as the radiant floors! If you put more than one in a room, you can control the temperature in the room quite well, too. For example, if the room addition has an area with higher solar gain and a "shaded" area, the thermostatic valves can correct the imbalance in the room by shutting down the area of solar gain while allowing the "shaded" panel rad to continue to add heat to the room. Now, the sun goes down and the panel in the "solar area" is now colder than the "shaded" panel. The panel closer to the glazing will need to add more heat than the panel in the "shaded" area. The thermostatic radiator valves are wonderful tools to ensure that your room is comfortable!
  • Big Ed
    Big Ed Member Posts: 1,117
    Buderus

    I installed them in a problem section in my home . I needed the extra btu for recovery on cold days . I could not add enough base board in the room for lack of space. You can pack btu's in using the Buderus "22". I placed them under the windows to produce a heat curtain.....

    At first my wife questioned me using radiators . Now she loves them . Very easy to clean and they look modern with their clean look. . I love the comfort and control....

  • Joe@buderus
    Joe@buderus Member Posts: 165
    Panel Rads

    The Panel Radiators work on two principles, radiant (heats objects, projects heat into the room) and convection (cold air enters the bottom and as it heats it rises). This provides greater and more comfortable heat. As stated in an above post, the model 22 takes up less wall space while providing the Btu's. The use of thermostic valves would be recommended with the hydro air and R2107 Control.
  • Ted_9
    Ted_9 Member Posts: 1,718


    I agree. We have a problem living room that gets cold and the house is forced air. I am switching to hydronic heat and this is the first room. What a differance, the room and the floor are no longer cold. I cant wait to get the rest of the house done and shut down my 2 year old warm air furnace.

    PATRIOT HEATING & COOLING, INC.

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • Steve Ebels_2
    Steve Ebels_2 Member Posts: 47
    Ted

    I did the same thing in our house when we moved here 9 years ago. We have a Vertical style Vasco rad on an interior wall of the living room + Climate Panel (major glass heat loss). You can stand across the room (14') and feel the heat from the rad even with water temps <140*.

    One word of caution with radiant floor and panel rad/trv combo systems. Leave an area around the rad void of your floor heating. The TRV can "see" the heat from the floor and it shuts down prematurely.

    Ask me how I know that (G)
  • Ted_9
    Ted_9 Member Posts: 1,718


    Here are some pis. Notice the crayon on the wall to the left of the first rad.

    The rad in the first pic I got new, but the second rad I got scratch n" dent for 50 bucks. Its slightly older style too.

    They work wonderfully.

    Thanx Steve.

    PATRIOT HEATING & COOLING, INC.

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  • Larry_10
    Larry_10 Member Posts: 127


    ted they look good post a picture of your boiler room are you useing buderus? i will go with rads on my new side of the house

    thanks
  • Jim Eastman_2
    Jim Eastman_2 Member Posts: 27
    Buderus panel rads and system

    Here are a couple of shots of my boiler system. The first shows the three radiant zones fed by injection. The second picture shows the injection manifold and above the boiler you can see two circulators that are taking "high temp" water to the panel radiators and the indirect water heater (all Buderus equipment). I have four Buderus panel radiators with TRVs. The outside temp is 41* F and the radiant floor zones are working at 88*. The panel rads are being fed water at the lowest temp possible. The Ecomatic sets the temp and protects the boiler from condensing. The primary and the panel radiator circs do not operate until the boiler is a minimum temperature of 140*. I have the system set to turn off the space heating at 58*. This system does not save much fuel vs. the forced air that it replaced, but it is 1000% more comfortable!
  • Ted_9
    Ted_9 Member Posts: 1,718


    Rooster Boy, the boiler room is not ready yet, I'm waiting for the GB142 to come out. I am using a Munchkin T80 as a temp.


    PATRIOT HEATING & COOLING, INC.

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  • Weezbo
    Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
    Well,....for some reason we are on the same page here:)))

    aint it the way to go.....:) i like the Taco pump block guys as the way to deal with the distribution...with TRV out there in the field further dialing in point of use.
  • Jammer_2
    Jammer_2 Member Posts: 7


    When using these panel radiators what is the best way to pipe / control them? What about if you have a mixture of panel radiators and radiant floor heat?
  • Ted_9
    Ted_9 Member Posts: 1,718


    Jammer, it depends on the overall system but here is a good way. Pipe the panel rad in a homerun system. Each rad gets a supply and return going back to a radiant manifold. You can use either pex of aluminum pex. These should be on constant circulation and each rad with a non-electric thermostatic head.

    PATRIOT HEATING & COOLING, INC.

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  • Dan_15
    Dan_15 Member Posts: 388
    Question

    Jim, thanks for posting the pitures (I like the injection valve set up!!) My question is why the 140 degree min. temp before the circulator for high temp loop comes on?
    Thanks
  • Larry_10
    Larry_10 Member Posts: 127


    hi Ted on my panel I the first branch is now free because I put a new to at the end on the manifold and put my dhw in 1 inch on the first branch id like to put 2 or 3 rads on that zone. how would you pipe that on the first branch

    I was not sure what you ment by a homerun id like to use one cerc 007 with ifc

    and take it from there

    ps. looks like you had fun at buderus and id love to see the new pics of your boiler when it comes out and you put it in.

    also if you like id love to do you up a new website and make it look real good if you give me pictures and ideas of what you would like I can do it for you im good at Photoshop

    here is some pictures of me I did in Photoshop

    thanks
  • Jim Eastman_2
    Jim Eastman_2 Member Posts: 27


    I have the ecomatic set for 140* return to protect against condensation on the cast iron boiler. The system will actually run at lower temps as requested by the ecomatic, but if the boiler needs to fire and the system temperature is less than 140 degrees, the ecomatic shuts down the primary and secondary circs until the temperature of the water in the boiler gets above 140* before turning the circs back on. This protects the boiler from seeing very much cold water before it gets above the condensing temperature.
  • Jim Eastman_2
    Jim Eastman_2 Member Posts: 27


    Jammer,

    See my posts and pics earlier in this thread. I have a mixture of three radiant zones and four panel radiators on a constantly circulating loop. The idirect water heater and the panel loop are "high temp" zones and the radiant is tempered by use of the injection system. The indirect water heater has priority and the ecomatic control ramps the boiler temp up to 180* to produce DHW. Once the DHW is done, the circ for the panel radiators comes on (and stays on)while the boiler purges the very hot water down to the correct water temp for the panel rads. The beauty of this system is that the panel radiators can utilize the thermostatic valves to adjust for the widely varying temperatures that my constant circulation provides. The panel loop might see 180* water during a post DHW run and then see 100* water as the system gets ready for another burn cycle.
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