Nusience Riello

Geo_4

I have a Buderus g-115/4 with a riello f-40 burner. New in 2001, Using the reccommended 1.25-80B nozzle, proper draft at breech and burner, air shutter is at 4.0, a 5.0 is spec'd but you can't get 12% co2 till air is cut down. Anyway, the owner keeps having problems requiring reset on the burner, usually 2weeks to 2 months after service. It has gravity fed fuel in the basement, fuel pressure is at 145psi. I replaced a set of cracked electrodes earlier and tried a new control module, to no avail. Normal chimney, unit does have an ecomatic. Thanks- george

TGO_54

resetting

Check for carbon on the nozzle, you should not touch the nozzle with your bare fingers when installing it. Also check the electrode settings - they must be exact in some applications. They are in the book that came with the boiler.
Good Luck!

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Dan_15

Riello

Have you tried to contact Riello or us (Buderus) from the job site with your instruments?
Riello - 1800-474-3556, Buderus 1-800-283-3787.
Thanks,

Weezbo

riellos are good burners,maybe 60 degree nozzel....

and reset every thing.....clean the air filter out of thecover,make sure there is nothing interfering with outside air,check that there is nothing in the near vicinity of the boiler that might be a cause of dust lint or creating a way for air to be pulled back in the room. make sure the burner isnt dragging lint around on the fan or worse.

Geo_4

thanks for the suggestions, I'll check for dirty blower wheel and maybe a 60deg nozzle, I always end up there on a saturday and tech help is hard.

Rex Whitmore

Is this unit taking in fresh air from out side? I had a similar issue and had to keep choking (less air) down the unit when the temperature dropped outside. I also had to readjust for warmer days (more air). Turns out the intake air had to be tempered (warmed up closer to room temperature) and needed to stay at a constant in order for the burner to function properly. This can be done by increasing the lenth of the intake pipe. Or make up some type of reversed intercooler (similar to a tubo charged automobile, but in reverse).

Mellow_2

I had one buderus rep

At a job with me. I installed a 115/21 and riello burner and had a rummbling........The factory has changed the burner for this unit and has been using the 80 deg nozzles. The rep sayed it looked like the 80 deg was hitting the ret. head and to install a 70 deg. If you have carbon on the head I would make a change.............The rep told me I could go back to the 70 A or a 70 W. I am trying the W and this is the longest time without a problem. I want to thank buderus for coming out so quickly and helping me with a problem that was more about the BURNER, not about the boiler. good luck.

Mad Dog

We had a problem with the post purge phase on a Riello

last week. Burner would run fine for an hour and then shut down. Tech support acknowledged it has been a common problem. They suggested a new board or just eliminating post purge. Mad Dog

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J.C.A._3

Post-purge controls.

Matt, sorry to hear you had a problem with a Riello control. Last night at Buderus, that problem was addressed in a "roundabout way". (Nobody will say that it is OK to do this, and the results could be damaging....so it was kind of pushed off to the side and left at that)

My personal advice would depend on the unit the burner is placed in. If it is a direct vent unit, I wouldn't even DREAM of running it without a post-purge. Many have removed the "card" and gotten away with it, but if you are direct venting without an air damper, be it electric or hydraulic, the natural convection could inevitably cause problems with cold oil on a prolonged down time.

The cause of all of these post purge control failures has been determined and the response has been slow, to say the least. Again, noone wants to admit to a problem unit.

To Riello, my advice would be some kind of nozzle assembly heater to keep things in check if you can't get the post purge to work properly. To field techs. , my #1 advice would be to make sure the wiring to the control is done properly on install. I've found my share of "lack of the second "constant" 120V feed being overlooked and not connected in the junction box. (Note the PINK WIRE ON THE MOLEX CONNECTOR!! That would be the one that makes the pre/post purge work)

I've been doing this for a LONG time now, and find that there are very few control failures that are widespread. When something keeps coming up and gets labled as a "problem burner or control, I tend to sit back and wait for the fallout. Most of the time it turns out to be the overlooked instructions that were the culprit. Ask any factory /field/phone rep. and my guess is that they will concur in spades. Sorry to be a "Breaker" about this, but it has been what I've found most of the time. Chris

joe_31

riello

had a similar problem on a kerr furnace. rechecked everthing found push on cad cell eye loose tightened the prongs up. changed from 60 to 70 w nozzle. closed air gate till we found smoke with burner cover off, then on had to make more adjustments through gate access after remounting box with outside air closed gate again had gone from 12 to 14co2 after we put the box on found smoke again then readjusted it to 13.5co2 zero smoke. riellos do not work with cold air or oil. 2 other furnaces we have 150watt light bulbs in outside air intake pipe for a barn
in doylestown with riello burners that come on 5 min before these heaters start in ice cold barn also use snorkels and tiger loops on oil tanks. lots of crap if we could only find some old internationals with old wayne burners and ratty old noisy field ventors. price of progress?

Mad Dog

Thanks Chrsi and everyone else

Yeah. I love it...only when you're dying on these jobs do they finally admit that "yeah, it has been a widespread problem" The guy on tech support okayed it, but we'll probably go back anyway. Mad Dog

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Ron Schroeder_3

Hi George,

Last time that I saw that problem, the burner was set up with a little too much excess air (CO2 just a tiny bit too low) and the flame was a little "fluttery". Just a little less air brought the CO2 into spec., smoothed out and quieted the flame and got rid of the lockout.

Ron