Installing a angle valve for a steam radiator

John_67

I'm a first time homeowner. The house is about 90 years old but with a fairly newer (within the last 7 years) boiler but with much older radiators. Everything I know about steam heating I've learned form this site and others over the past two weeks and from my science backround.

I'm trying to install a new angle valve on a steam radiator on a one-pipe system. I striped the threads on which the packing bolts screwed on to, appearently it was already stripped and someone added extra packing into the bolt or at least that's what the nice gentleman from New Age Heating said. Of course, the valve didn't leak at the packing nut until I touched it. It rattled like crazy so I tighted the packing nut and it stoppedw When it started rattling again it only made sense to tighten it more, right? Of course not!

The problem I'm having is the valve leaks where it threads on to the steam supply/condensate return pipe. Also, when I attached the new valve to the steam supply/condensate return pipe, I had trouble lining up the valve with the pipe entering the radiator. If I tighten the the valve all the way down on to the supply pipe the valve ends up to be below the pipe entering the radiator. Because of this, I didn't tighten the valve on the the supply pipe on the way. BTW,I did not use any type a sealent on the threads. The guy at the supply house said if it leaks use pipe dope but I'm worried that won't work because the valve isn't tighted fully on the supply pipe.

What should I do, except call the New Age guy who wanted to charge me $300 for installing the valve for me? I need a new hot water heater to so spending $300 on a job he said I could do myself.

ed wallace

new rad valve

you should have used pipe dope on valve did you check to see if rad valve mates to radiator spud thats the part that comes out of the radiator is there play in the pipe

Big Ed

leverage

On the riser use quick wick(lamp wick) and non oil base pipe dope on the threads. This will take the slack on the old threads.....Now try to use a crow bar or rig a leverage jack to lift up the riser to the spud. At this time if the union nut is over worked or the seat is damaged replace the spud. To change the spud you need a spud wrench . Apply just a finger dap of plumbers grease to the unions surface. You don't want to induce oil or grease to the system so be care full.. Have fun

P.S. At this time I bet you feel the $300 would have been a good investment..... I do it myself...

gehring_3

valve


You can also use a combination of teflon tape and pipe dope to build up the threads a bit for a tighter fit without having to screw down as many theads. I have also had luck in certain situations (depending on what else is off of that riser) to go down into the basement and gently drive a wooden wedge under the elbow leading up to the riser to raise it enough to make a difference upstairs. You have to be gentle and careful though or you could adversely change the pitch on other things tied in nearby.

Ken C.

You should have called a pro

In theory, replacing a steam radiator valve is simple. In actuality, there's a lot a homeowner can screw up (I'm surprised you got the old valve off).

Your best bet would have been to hire the pro, $300 to replace a radiator valve is not unreasonable.

John_67

Well, I used Rectoseal #5 plus teflon tape and ran the heat for two hours with out any leaks. Thanks to everyone for helping me out.