Downsizing FERO radiators

t. tekushan

Greetings-

Am I foolish to attempt to take apart a spare fero cast iron tubular radiator to downsize it to replace a four section that is missing?

I'm concerned about the ability to take it apart without damage, and reassembling without leaks. I've never done this one before.

Any tips?

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Surprisingly easy to disassemble and reassemble radiators with push nipples. I use wedges cut from a strong, hard wood like oak but have seen old-timers put the handle of a long pipe wrench between sections and give a firm, quick jerk.

Push nipples seal with metal-to-metal contact, but I run a thin bead of pure silicon around for insurance (and perhaps a bit of lubrication).

J.D.Sarick

Downsizing Radiators

I'm interested in your description of downsizing a radiator, as I recently super insulated a room and want to take a 80" long (27) panels down to something close to 45", but am not sure how to begin. Do you have any specific ideas? Photos attached.

Mike T., Swampeast MO

That radiator sure looks like it is assembled with threaded nipples. If you do not see rods running from end-to-end at both top and bottom, threaded nipples were used.

After being in service for so long, you can consider such to be permanently assembled.

I would most honestly find a replacement. While it might take a while, you can usually find salvaged radiators at a very reasonable price. Burnham offers new cast iron radiators.

Ron Schroeder_3

unless space or aesthetics are a concern

consider reducing the input temperature of the heating system to lower the emitters output. You will reduce the fuel consumption of your heating system as a bonus.

Ron Schroeder_3

Mike, I understand your dissassembly procedure

but do tell, how do you press the radiators together again? Also, since I have never asembled or reassembled a radiator, how do you treat the push nipples prior to reassembly?

Mike T., Swampeast MO

While I guess that the dead men had a press of some sort to do it, I just use the rods. There's enough threading to allow one or perhaps two sections to be pulled together. If pulling together a number of sections, I use fully threaded rods--then remove and replace with the old rods cut to the proper length and re-threaded at one end. Tighten all rods evenly--you'll know when it's fully together...

J.D.Sarick

Space was the killer

Yup, you hit the nail on the head. Space was the main saver. The room is only 12ft by 14ft, but was lined with windows, so you could feel the breeze through them in the winter. I replaced all the windows and buttoned up the room, and now the radiator seems like it will be HUGE for the room. Figured I could salvage some space with a smaller radiator. Might be more of a pain than I originally thought.

J.D.Sarick

Threaded Rods

Nope, no rods. I've seen the ones you are referring to. The ones I have (from looking in the EDR from D. Holohan) seem to be the "American" Corto Window seven tube Radiators. How exactly does the 'threaded nipple' work? You wouldn't have a web site link showing one. For the life of me I cannot visualize how this thing is being held together!!

I've found one half the length (18 sections) for $180. Is that a fare price for a savlage one. . . $10 per section?

Thanks for the Help

Mike T., Swampeast MO

The big connections you see at the top and bottom of each radiator section have been threaded (female) from BOTH sides. The nipples are slightly tapered to the center and are male threaded from both sides. The inside surface of the nipples has two lands (raised areas) at 180 degree opposition.

Lay a section down. Set nipples connection. Put another section on top. Use a wrench that engages the lands (spud wrench) to draw the sections together by turning clockwise. Repeat for each section...

If you think, "Oh, I'll just use a spud wrench to disassemble", think again! You'll destroy either the lands (99.9% certain) and eventually most modern spud wrenches without removing a single nipple. It's conceivably possible to remove threaded nipples via EXTREMELY careful cutting/grinding, but unless your time is either infinite or nearly worthless you'll be much better off not even making the attempt.

I'm stubborn and patient. I've tried with very little success. Truly not worth the effort!

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Even in my area (certainly not rich) that's a fair price for an unrestored, untested radiator. If you're patient and observant you can sometimes get them free for the hauling.

J.D.Sarick

Threaded Nipples

Ahhh, now I get it! Thanks for the description and the warning. I appreciate your comments from your experience relating to what I was thinking of doing. I've just replaced the whole warn out slate roof with a complete new slate roof on this place. What I planned four weeks for took four MONTHS. Without your insight, I would be sitting in this place in January hovering around 10°F kicking myself! I'll stick the whole thing back in there and let it go as is. What's an extra 4sqft. I still have to replace all the steam traps, as there are no cages in any of them! Maybe I'll practice on a small one I have in the basement once I have heat again and let you know how it goes.

Thanks TONS!!

thfurnitureguy_4

Who has push nipples? I have a big rad that leaks where it came apart

J.D.Sarick

Steam Trap Repair Parts

You seem to be in the know, so how about this!! All the steam traps are either empty or they do not work. Some are the Dunham-Bush 1A & 1E and some have Barnes & Jones '1950' Covers - seemly been updated earlier as the main bodies still look like the Dunham-Bush. I was planning on getting all new covers and getting the repair cages from Barnes & Jones even though all the Main Bodies are from Dunam-Bush. Is there any quality difference between the B&J or the D-B steam trap guts?? Would there be a functional problem with a D-B main body and a B&J Cover and Cage Unit??

Thanks in advance for your help!!