Problems with rowhome hot water heat

Brian_26

There is something definitely wrong with my heating system. I would like to diagnose the problems but I haven't been able to identify the type of system that I have. I have a 3 story rowhome and there are a few problems. I am spending a fortune on heating. The radiators farthest from the boiler will not get hot. These are located on the third floor and the bathroom on the back of the house. I constantly bleed the radiators and air comes out. Occasionally the problem radiators will get a little luke warm but never hot. I installed the auto bleed valves on the problem radiators and it hasn't helped.

My system was poorly installed. It seems similar to a gravity fed system. The system has a supply side and the return side and something that resembles 2 loops for different parts of the house. BUT, the expansion tank is in the basement (with the boiler) not the attic...sorry no attic in this house. The boiler is a fairly inefficient new model that was installed about 5 years ago. I don't have the model but I can track it down. It definitely stinks of a poor DIY install.

Any hints on where to start. What type of system is this? We are gutting the back half of our house and I want to fix it the right way! I just would like some hints on how to start.

Weezbo

find someone who knows how to at least identify the boiler

might even go the extra mile and get a person who can savey the system by experience,divining things over the telephone and internet can lead to misunderstandings...

Steamhead

Rowhome?

That's what we call 'em in Baltimore, they're "townhomes" almost everywhere else. If you're in Baltimore, contact me.

Your problem sounds like there is not enough water in the system. A bad fill valve can cause this. You can confirm this by looking at the gauge on the boiler- it should be around 18 pounds in a 3-story building.

If your system has large pipes (2-inch or so) in a little rowhouse, it was definitely a gravity system. There's nothing wrong with changing these to forced circulation, but it has to be done right.

The basement expansion tank was first used in the 1920s, but didn't really become universal until the 1940s or so.

Any boiler made since about 1980 must have an annual efficiency of at least 80%. Since your bills are high, the boiler may be oversized or not set up properly. This must be corrected by a pro.

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Brian_26

rowhome heat

Ok, I have done a little more research. I have a Sears Kenmore High Efficiency Gas fired hot water induced draft boiler. The model number is 229.965570. It is definitely a big sucker...225BTU input and 186BTU capacity.

It was running at only 14psi. I opened the reducing valve to add water and got the pressure up to 20psi. The radiators up stairs warmed up in a hurry and have been keeping hot since.

So how is the pressure regulated. How do I set the pressure so that I maintain 18psi as suggested. Is this adjusted with the reducing valve? I don't think that I have an air purger. Should one be installed? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Brian

Steamhead

That boiler sounds way oversized

for a typical rowhouse. Unless your house is way bigger than usual, it's probably up to twice the size needed. Most of the 3-story ones we see use boilers of about 100,000 BTUH input or less. If your fuel bills are high, this is probably one reason. To be sure, run a heat-loss calculation on the house, or at least add up all your radiation to get an idea of how much heat is needed.

The reducing valve is what regulates the system pressure. Most can be adjusted by a screw or nut on top. If it's stuck, or corroded, have it replaced.



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Brian_26

rowhome heat

My house is one of the bigger rowhomes. It is 2600 sq ft with very high ceilings. We have very drafty windows and no insulation. I would do a heat calc but I am scared at the results. The previous owner that installed the boiler was fanatical about having a perfectly restored Victorian. He restored about half the house and added no insulation. We are gutting the back of the house and it will be well insulated.

I will check/adjust the reducing valve.