Munchkin Vision One & Pool Controls

Dunwell

First off, I want to thank everyone here for the past advice. You’ve helped me acquire a better understanding of all things heat-related—Muchos Gracias!

I’m now at the point where the plumber is about to daisy chain everything to the pool, I just have some loose ends. Here’s the complete set up:

1. 11x24, 7000 gallons, fiberglass indoor lap pool
2. Filter- Hayward Starclear Plus (C900)
3. Pump- Hayward 1.5 HP SuperPump
4. Heater- Jass LT 100,000 BTU stainless steel tube heat exchanger (hooked up to a Munchkin 140,000 BTU boiler)
5. Aquatrol Salt Water Generator (for pools under 18,000 gals) (This unit has a built-in timer and I’m going to plug the pump into this unit to utilize this feature, would you?)

Now my dilemma is in the controls. My plumber hasn’t installed it yet, but I seem to remember hearing something about the Vision One controller for the Munchkin having pool controls. Is this true? If so, how does it work?

Also, what will I do for a thermostat since I don’t have a typical pool heater (which normally has the temperature indicated on the unit)?

Let me tell you what I’d like. I’d like to be able to come home, hit a button on the thermostat (which I’d like near the pool on the main floor, not in the basement with the rest of the controls), and have the whole system kick in so I can go for a nice dip in a warm pool in the shortest amount of time. I want to be able to set the thermostat for 80 degrees and have the pool ready by the time I get my suit on. Is that too much to ask? :)

So what’s the procedure? My plumber is a newbie. Does the thermostat connect directly to the boiler or to the heat exchanger/pool heater? Where does the Vision One controller fit in? Where should the Vision One controller mount, near the boiler or near the pool?

Also, I’ve been hearing that the pump I was given by the pool company may be too big for my pool. A contractor told me that it may push the water thru the heat exchanger too quickly and the water will not be able to get warm enough. He mentioned getting another, smaller pump. I’ve been doing some reading and haven’t seen anything to substantiate this. What are your thoughts? I hope it ain’t true because I want to keep this set up as simple as possible.

Thanks for your help and come over for a dip anytime if you’re in the Berkshires! :)
Dunn

Dunwell

I'm going to bump this up because I really need help. Any takers please?

jerry scharf_2

I'll take a shot at it

Dunn,

The vision one has four inputs, a indirect hot water heater sensor, an outdoor reset sensor, a thermostat contact and a indirect contact. If you are using the indirect for domestic hot water, then the only option is to treat it as a thermostat input and zone the pool.

If you want to use the indirect mode to heat the pool, I don't think you can get what you want with the sensor. That is designed to keep the tank at a target temperature all the time. There are many ways to get what you want, here's one way. Get an double throw relay, route the button you want to press to a 24V circuit that energizes the coil. Have one throw of the relay also bring 24V to the coil, and put an aquastat witht he right temperature range in line that is closed when below set point. Use the other throw to be the contact closure to call for indirect heat. You will also need to slave the filter pump off the relay so the heat makes it to the water.

As for the pump, the faster the flow through the heat exchanger, the more heat gets transferred. It may waste energy, but you can't make the pump too big from the HX point of view. You don't care how hot the water comes out, just how much heat (BTUs) you can get into the pool water.

My sislter lives in West Hawley.

jerry

Dunwell

Munchkin Vision One and Pool Controls

Thanks Jerry!

I appreciate your answer and passed it on to my plumber!
OK, you can bring your sister for a dip as well!

Dunn

Mark Eatherton1

Dunwell...

I think you might want to rethink your strategy. Do the math. Each gallon weighs 8.33 lbs, and each rise or drop in temperature requires one btu. SO, lets say your pool cools down to room temp, 70 degrees F. The btu's required to get it from 70 to 80 degrees would be 7,000 X 8.33 X 10 degree delta T, or 583,000 btu's. These btus don't take into consideration the evaporation losses (SUBSTANTIAL) nor the pick up load of the concrete, striclty the water weight.

So, 583,000 divided by 132,000 btuH (Munchkins output) would require 4.41 hours for the water alone. Now, if your're a REAL slow dresser...

Two things come to mind. If you keep the pool hot, but the air cool, you'll have ALL kinds of relative humidity problems. Cover the pool.

Secondly, keep it warm, and when you have the cover off, keep the air temp about 2 degrees F warmer than the water temp so that the flow of energy is from the air to the water instead of viceaversa.

The Vision One control will not be of any good use to you under these operating constraints.

Hope we don't burst your bubble...

ME