Tekmar type control, how to fool it.

Ted_9

Can you change the out side design day to 15 instead of 0 )in New England) so that the control will give higher temps.

Other than possibly over heating, does anyone see a problem with this?

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Mark Eatherton1

Yes...

You can turn the OSA design temp to just about anything you want. It just increases the angle of attack of the curve slope. Gets you where you want to be faster. Besides possible overheating, wasted fuel would be my only other ocncern.

Sounds like you're having problems making a system put out:-)

ME

Kal Row

my own experiance with tekmar...

is that they have the "terminal unit" (type of radiation) curves figured pretty good - and the most i have had to adj is +/- 5 to 10 degrees, more than that, and I’d be seriously looking at the whole design – starting with errors in the HeatLossClac (hey, it happend to me) – or the system – like a flow problem somewhere (happened to me too),
nobody is perfect but tekmar gets within 10 degrees “und dat iz feh-ree gutt, ya!!”

Unknown

can you just adjust the reset curve to make it more aggressive? which tekmar are you using?

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Ted_9

Mark, Cal, yes it really is a system design and piping issue.

I was called in to look at it and there are a few problems that I will be working on. But I was think as a tempoary measure untill we can get there. If we raise that OSA design temp up, it may give them a bit more heat.

Here are some photos to look at for fun and learning.

Its hard to see where everything is really going, but here goes.

Tekmar 360 existing.

You see that 3way mixer, its mixing 3 high temp radiant baseboard and to more manual mixers for the staple up.

I guess from what the home owner says, the baseboard has long runs and is with 3.8 pex. So I;m replacing that 007(attic) circ with a ups15-58 3 speed Grundfos so that we can tweek it.

Now taking a step back, looking at the primary loop its ok, but the secondary branches are exactly 12" on center apart(not correct).

Now they are mixing down all of the high temp(which needs up to 180 degres) and radiant manual 3 way.



THE QUICK FIX: I'm cutting out the 3 way and the return branch that goes into it and making the closely(12") spaced tees just supply and return manifolds. I;m adding a Tekmar363 to do boiler reset for the high temp and to mix on of the radiant zones and we'll use the 360 for the other radiant zone.

THE GOAL: To get more gpm to the 3 high temp baseboard with outdoor reset and to mix down the to large radiant zones with outdoor reset.

What do you guys think? Give me any contructive critisism.


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Kal Row

361 and i just raised the oudoor design point from 10 to 15

Kal Row

a benny hill would say \"oy vey\"...

too many un-dynamically controlled things which had to have been set right - LOL

hydronicsmike

No problem changing the Outdoor Design Setting (OUT DSGN)....

The Control will always give you the DSGN SUP temp at OUT DSGN condition. However, to increase the Target (TRG), you could simply increase the ROOM setting that will parallel shift the Heating Curve. If you increase it from 70°F (default), the Curve is shifted up, resulting in a higher target temperature.

If you have further questions, please feel free to call tekmar at 250-545-7749.

Happy New Year!!

Mike

Kal Row

i was wondering...

on a control like the 361 which is basically a heat source supply control (as opposed to a 371 which is a whole house control), does hooking up the optional indoor sensor to the complaint spot in the house, take care of it without fiddling with the design points?

Kal Row

you are on the right track...

getting rid of the fixed mixers and making tekmars control it, as to the pump, re-check the head requrements, a 15-58 might have enough flow but not enough head, you might have to go to the 26-97 or 99 to overcome the resistance of that circuit - some of those pex loops require some serious push, a 26-99 has 30ft of head but also draws 3 amps

hydronicsmike

Kal

an Indoor Sensor connected to a Control such as the 361 will automatically shift the heating curve up or down, depending on Indoor Air Temperature. An Indoor Sensor should only be installed in a single Zone System as the water temperature is determined by the Indoor Sensor and its location. The result would be the right water temperature which would mean continuous circulation.

I hope this answers your question. If you have more, please feel free to call tekmar at 250-545-7749.

Thanks.

Mike

Ted_9

Hey Mike, dont forget about me.


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hydronicsmike

Never Ted!

Mike

Ted_9

Thanks for getting back to me. You've been very helpful.

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hydronicsmike

You're most welcome Ted.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Mike