Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Radiator removal
Rick_21
Member Posts: 1
Hi Folks,
I've noticed that this forum is mostly about steam heat, but I'm hoping you might be able to help. I've got a gravity circulated hot water heating system in my home that I'm renovating. I need to temporarily remove two of the radiators so that I can properly install sheetrock and flooring. The system currently works very well; it heats up nicely with no drama. The pipes appear to be cast iron, and there are bleeder valves on the tops of the radiators. How should I proceed so as to not mess up the rest of the system? Thanks for your help.
Regards,
Rick
Washington, DC
I've noticed that this forum is mostly about steam heat, but I'm hoping you might be able to help. I've got a gravity circulated hot water heating system in my home that I'm renovating. I need to temporarily remove two of the radiators so that I can properly install sheetrock and flooring. The system currently works very well; it heats up nicely with no drama. The pipes appear to be cast iron, and there are bleeder valves on the tops of the radiators. How should I proceed so as to not mess up the rest of the system? Thanks for your help.
Regards,
Rick
Washington, DC
0
Comments
-
Unless
the radiator are piped in series, you shouldn't have any problems. Well, I shouldn't say "any"; perhaps minimal. There are always small problems you run into whenever you fool around with a system.
Drain the system to just below the radiators, cap the lines, re-fill the system and vent any air out of the radiators.
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
You have to drain the system at least to a level below the radiators you're removing. Then loosen the unions at either side of the rads and remove the rad. Then you'll have to remove the hand valve and angle portion of the other union. (Use TWO pipe wrenches in opposition to one another!)
Then put caps over the pipes and refill the system. Be aware that this will completely stop circulation in those branches and that air will be trapped as well. As long as the project isn't going to take too long and the weather isn't going to be absurdely cold you shouldn't have a problem. If you expect a longer project and considering that it's January with D.C.s unpredictable weather you may want to connect the supply/return together using a union. When filling put a tray underneath and slightly open the union to remove the air. Then water will continue to flow and there will be very little danger of those branches freezing.0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.3K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 99 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 63 Pipe Deterioration
- 916 Plumbing
- 6K Radiant Heating
- 381 Solar
- 14.9K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 53 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements