Difference Between Beckett Heads

tony the tech

Can anybody explain the difference between a Beckett "F" head (F3) to be exact and a "V1" head. We are retrofitting a 125MBH boiler that had an old ARCO burner on it 1.25 80 deg nozzle. We are trying to decide between the F head and V head on an AFG burner. Also we are trying to figure out how to size a new firing rate. SInce a Beckett is more efficient than the old burner shouldn't we need a lower firing rate to get the same BTU's? The boiler is on a testing loop at our plant.
Thanks

Weezbo

basically ....allowable fireing rates...

its like using a F-3 rather than an F-5 riello burner...one can fire at that low a level and the other that high a level buh...they tend to like some where in the middle.... there are different patterns of swirl and the like produced from different heads and nozzels andsettings in a draw and pump pressures also have a little something to do with it...

J.C.A._3

Beckett head differences,

F heads are "fixed" heads. The nozzle must be adjusted to them by use of (preferably) a"tee" gauge or less trustworthy measuring tape.The number following the F is the width of the slots around the air swirl device (in 1/16ths of an inch)See the Beckett manuals for the proper firing rate for each different size.F heads, as a rule like an 80° nozzle. Again, check the manuals

The "V and M heads" are adjustable in the tube itself. More like a CCT/Carlin/blue angel design. Again, the manuals are just the starting points in their measurements. TESTING is the only way to verify all adjustments!!!! V and M heads are usually fired with a longer fire.(read 60° nozzle)

Be warned, there are different air tubes available for the V and M head also! Burnham has one made for their boilers that has more holes to mix in secondary air to the mixture. They say it quiets them down a bit.(maybe a good choice for all of them?) Depending on how much fire you'll ultimately need, and the shape/type of the firebox would be the determining factor. Hope this helped. Chris

Jim \"Rocky\" Kelleher

Hope that helps?

J.C.A. your are the man.Awesome oil burner info!
I'm just starting to get my feet wet in the oil burner service business, I just wished I had been an apprenticed to someone as knowlegable as you.
Happy holidays

Weezbo

hmmm...

so , the load you want on it while running would be sized to maximum output of the boiler ? or the equivalent of the previous burner with 1.25 at 80 degree and 100 psi? what does the test loop require to operate ?

Firedragon_4

This should help too,

for an apprentice or a master.

http://www.beckettcorp.com/

e-mail me and I'll give you the password and username.

Check these out too:

www.OilTechTalk.com

http://www.carlincombustion.com/

http://www.riellousa.com/

Oh yeah and my cyberhome too:
www.FiredragonEnt.com

Welcome to the wacky and wonderful land of Oildom!

eleft_4

F; L1; V1-#; 16hole

The standard air tubes are for F heads are AF##XR thru XS depending on the length and firing rate. Heads range from F0 thru F31. depending on the firing rate. LFRB (5880) specs for; F0 up to 0.065; F3 or L1 up to 0.085; F4 or F6 up to 0.90; V1 up to 1.00

The standard air tubes for L1 heads 8 hole are AFG##MB depending on length. 0.05 to 1.00 fr

The standard air tubes for V1 heads 8 hole AFG##MD depending on length. 0.75 to 2.75 fr.

The M tube mentioned used in Burnham V8 series 16 hole AFG70MMAQN for L1; Starting at AFG70MDAQN for V1-0 heads to AFG70MDASN up to V1-6 heads.

Mery Christmas

al

Weezbo

)

Ilike your approach if just enough info will do Plenty will do better:)))now the guy Really has something to think about! )) Icouldnt even make these links show up on a computer attachment..ok so let me ask you How do you make the writing turn blue? i was interested so i could make my snow hat blue. *~/ is there a special key i need to plink on ?

Steamhead

Tony, which ARCO (Arcoflame?) burner was in it?

Some of the later ones were actually early flame-retention units. Before that many of them were Shellheads, and the oldest ones were probably garden-variety low-efficiency ones. Obviously the Shellhead and flame-retention burners had better efficiency than the antiques.

Either type of Beckett head is OK, just make sure it matches the firing rate you will use and is set up to specs.

On this type of retrofit where we're replacing an old-style burner with a flame-retention unit, I like to start with a firing rate 20% smaller than the one in the old burner. Keep in mind this is just a starting point, you may have to use a lower rate if the boiler heats too fast or a bigger one if it's too slow. And keep that digital combustion analyzer running while you experiment, to make sure you're not producing smoke or CO or a too-high or too-low stack temp.

Some older burners, especially Shellheads I believe, produced a flame that was shorter and wider than that produced by a flame-retention unit. This may mean using a nozzle like a "W" with a shorter flame pattern in the new burner to avoid impingement on the firing chamber walls. If the chamber is so wide that you can't clean up the fire without a lot of excess air, replace it with one that more closely matches the flame pattern of the burner.

If the boiler's flueways are large, it's a good idea to put bricks or baffles in them to slow the hot flue gases and make them wipe the boiler's heat-transfer surface better. This may allow the use of a lower firing rate. If you do this, make sure the draft over the fire doesn't fall below specs.

Recommended reading if you haven't already: One old- "Audel's Oil Burner Guide" by Frank Graham, and one new- Combustion and Oil-Burning Equipment" by George "Firedragon" Lanthier.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

eleft_4

)

If it's my post you refer to, the jpg files ( pictures)should open when clicked on, the same for the pdf. file (adobe)
Web is just a name. these are not url's

al

Firedragon_4

Thank you my friend!

tony the tech

Thanks

Thanks steamhead I really appreciate the reply. The burner is a EH-6 Arcflame. It looks like an early flame retntion head? Can I ask your opinion, would you retrofit with a Becket AFG or the Carlin EZ. As this boiler is just on a test loop I have some time to fool around. I've never done a retrofit. The guy in our maint dept that used to take care of the three test boilers/burners left. I need to start learning quick. I ahd worked with him for a while (I'm an electrical guy myself) He has shown me how to tune up using the Bacarach kit and all but we never did any swap outs together. Any opinions are welcome.

Firedragon_4

BTW, Tony!

If you can find a copy of Burkhardt's Domestic & Commercial Oil Burners it's a classic read and a must have.

Check this out too:
https://www.norastore.org/online_shop.cfm

The OTM book is a lot of paper for the bucks.

Steamhead

I have the most experience with Becketts

but there are those who swear by Carlins, Riellos etc. A good burner is a good burner. It's the installation that counts! BTW, what model boiler is this?

Since that's probably an old flame-retention unit, I wouldn't downfire much with the new one. Read the books and the manual that came with the burner, set up the various dimensions according to the manual, tune it up with the Bacharach and you should be OK. If you have any doubts, it wouldn't hurt to bring someone in who has more experience. You can probably find someone on the Find a Profesional page of this site.

Now the burning question: Do you still have the installation and setup info for the EH-6 burner? If so, please scan it and send it to our friend Alan Mercurio at Oil Tech Talk, www.oiltechtalk.com . This site has a collection of instructions for older burners but they don't have the EH-6.

Let us know how you make out!

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

tony the tech

Sorry we don't have the manual

The boiler is a 1JT.

tony the tech

Weezbo...

I just want to replace what is there with an equivalent burner giving equivalent input. I'm not sure what the loop actually requires I just want to replace the burner. But am not sure to replcae it with a Beckett or Carlin (that decision is still up in the air) and just put in the same nozzle or can I use a smaller GPH nozzle and get the same imput. To do that doesn't make sense in my head but I'm not sure.

Rookie_3

Tony

I did an burner retro on a old W/M that had a Shell Head, it worked out very well. I used a Beckett AFG with a F3. The old burner had been firing at 1.0 gph but when everything was set up with the Beckett, .85/80* worked out best. Home owner says they picked up some milage on fuel also. I had to match the burner with the chamber and what I thought would be used in the range of nozzles.(shape of flame to match the chamber) The links Firedragon posted may have some info on that for you. The links with the advise of the gentlemen above should get you in the right
direction. Good Luck...........ROOKIE

Bill Nye_2

Tony

> I just want to replace what is there with an

> equivalent burner giving equivalent input. I'm

> not sure what the loop actually requires I just

> want to replace the burner. But am not sure to

> replcae it with a Beckett or Carlin (that

> decision is still up in the air) and just put in

> the same nozzle or can I use a smaller GPH nozzle

> and get the same imput. To do that doesn't make

> sense in my head but I'm not sure.

Bill Nye_2

Tony

The newer flame retention burner will burn the fuel more efficiently and the flame temperature will be a little hotter. So yes, you can use a slightly smaller gph nozzle and have the same or more heat.

The F head would be my choice, easier to set up and you do not need the higher static pressure the V head can make. The burner does not have to fight to push through your old boiler. The newer boilers are tighter and offer more resistance to the flue gas.

You could probably do an F-3 head and 1.00 80° or an .85 80° with the pump turned up to 140psi. You may have to experiment and try 3 or more nozzles to find the one that is the "best".

Weezbo

ok Tony , Welcome to the real fun.*~/;)

simply snatching out a burner and sticking in another is not what you wll be doing. changing a fuel oil nozzel and bumping up the pressure isnt the way to go. there are many minor technicalities to where you are going in this small adventure in your life.:) one way is to go to the boiler furnace appliance manufacturer and ask them if they have a burner that they prefer to have installed on thier equipment and ask why alot. on your own its a different thing altogether , here are some of the variables to think about.....the internal flue ways of the firebox wether it is a dry base or wet base,on furnaces the type and size is also of a lot of interest as the wrong nozzel or burner flame can burn a hole right throught the box and jepordize someones life. some boilers with a dry base had minor technicalities associated with air that "infiltrated "along the seams and the changes to a wet base would dazzel the new proud owners... some times older boilers have very thick mortar and fire bricks in the chamber, maybe you can remove thismaterial size things correctly and get even more btu's outtathe bad boy and not be over firing it..although the nozzel mostlikely will be larger and the pressure higher on the oil pump...now there is also some things a guy can do to the venting....does it have a9'flue? well thats like way over the top,yet that too can be used if you are beefing up a retro out put. does it have a barometric? maybe this would be a good idea at this time ....does it have forced induced draft? then perhaps that needs to be addressed in this adventure....i know i know you werent wanting quite this much info:)) however if this is one of many appliances venting into an induced draft at the end of venting it will behave differently thouroughly cleaning the vent and chiminey is in order also....the boiler isnt new lets face it so , if this is like a really top notch test you want then the thing to do is lose the skins and get into it....a soot devil is thetoy along with a slaker and avariety of boiler brushes....pull the entire boiler apart isnteven a bad idea..especially if you really want it cleanand you got time:)so lets say its all clean and you have basically a new boiler there in front of you minus two baggs of soot two bags of powdered fire brick and moartar with the zeal to continue.....:) you going to need to go look in the mirror...you will likely wonder where this sudden resebalence to rocky racoon came from....:)do not hesitate at this time to leave it in the mans building.....oki well i need a cup of coffee..... BRB oh What Kind of Boiler is it have any idea? wet or dry base?

eleft_4

eMail Dan@Beckett,



He might be able to help you if you can give the proper info

DReisner@beckettcorp.com

Merry Christmas

al