Re-routing hot water heat

John McArthur_2

I plan on reducing the length of tubing/baseboard heat in my bathroom. Seems simple enough to cut and re-solder copper to make the new run.

However, I'm new to boiler and hot water heating. What should I do to flush the line before I start and how do I properly fill and get the air out once the job is complete.

Thanks,
Chuck

lchmb

Have you made sure the baseboard will be enough to keep the room warm? With that said, I would make sure to cool the system down first, just to be safe. You'll have to drain the loop, shut off the fast fill to start. Then generally drain from the purge station. Once the water is gone, cut the pipe, redrill the floor to run your piping through. Run your new pipe up from the cellar, reconnect your baseboard, get the baseboard cover's all cut to size and then purge away. I generally purge to start, then warm the boiler back up and purge the system with hot water. It may seem like a simple thing to do, but if you do not have all of the possible fitting's on hand you could drive yourself crazy running back and forth to get them. I would suggest if your not really handy with soldering pipes you get a fire retardant blanket, keep a bucket of water close by and use 50/50 solder....Good luck

John McArthur_2

Thanks for your help.

Current baseboard length is only about 5 feet long. I'm reducing it to around 2-3 feet. The bathroom is only 9'x4' if I don't count the bath/shower alcove.

Reason for me doing this is that with the current setup in the room, the vanity cabinet is notched out in the back to fit over the baseboard - which means the heat behind is heating my x-tra TP and wife's gadgets stored under the sink - not the room.

While I'm not familiar with purging and bleeding the system, hopefully all the valves work and don't stick as I try to bleed it.

Also, I read before that you should wait before pressurizing the system. Is this correct and how long should I wait before I fill her up?