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Just wrapped up this Buderus install.
Ted_9
Member Posts: 1,718
We replaced a 30 plus year old Utica input 125,000 out 100,000.
I did a heat loss and with a safety factor it was around 55,000 btus. We went with one boiler size up for the future indirect.
BTW, the gas line is temporary, just for the weekend.
I love those Grunfos 3 speed pumps.
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I did a heat loss and with a safety factor it was around 55,000 btus. We went with one boiler size up for the future indirect.
BTW, the gas line is temporary, just for the weekend.
I love those Grunfos 3 speed pumps.
PATRIOT HEATING & COOLING, INC.
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Comments
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ok ,I'm confused...
if you have 15-58's why the extra flow checks? Very nice and neat.Why did they opt for the GA over the g series nat. draft? kpc
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Nice Install!
As usual, it's a good-looking install.
I like the isolation flanges above and below each circulator. Makes for a trouble- and bubble-free replacement later. The mountings for the circs and so on was also much more sturdy than the free-hanging stuff that preceeded it. I presume that between your improvements to the piping, the variable-speed circs, and a new control system, that the folks in this small house will enjoy their newly-quiet system a lot!
If there was one thing that I, the mere homeowner engineer, would have done differently, it's the placement of the take-offs for the IDWH. I would have had them at the back wall, by putting a T in for the 90° turn to the left, for example. Then, less pipe would be required to get the hot water to the IDWH (i.e. you could plop one in at the location of the present one, with minimal repiping of the domestic stuff). Besides addressing the gas connection, you may also want to cover the electrical box to the top right of all the pumps, if you haven't done so already.
From your camera picture names, I presume you're using a Nikon. Like you, I have a lot of trouble getting the Nikon to focus in low-light situations. Even when we can see clearly, our prosumer Nikons let us down. To still get a sharp picture, use a flashlight to temporarily illuminate the object of your desire while pressing the shutter button down (which will allow the camera to focus), then turn the light away from the object before pressing the button down all the way. With people at night, I usually use a keychain red LED light that won't blind them, yet allows me to focus my camera.
As much as I love my Nikon, I find the deliberate omission of a auto-focus assist light in their prosumer line to be unforgivable. Even if you supplement a Nikon prosumer model with a "Speedlight" flash (which has a built-in red AFA light), the firmware deliberately does not send the Speedlight the AFA signal. GRRRR!0 -
> if you have 15-58's why the extra flow checks?
I remove the internal check when the circs are point up for draining. I was also sent the wrong Band G checks. I ordered the brass ones.
> Very nice and neat.Why did they opt for the GA
> over the g series nat. draft? kpc
Half of the basement is finished, so the GA was the logical choice.
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If there was
> one thing that I, the mere homeowner engineer,
> would have done differently, it's the placement
> of the take-offs for the IDWH. I would have had
> them at the back wall, by putting a T in for the
> 90° turn to the left, for example. Then, less
> pipe would be required to get the hot water to
> the IDWH (i.e. you could plop one in at the
> location of the present one, with minimal
> repiping of the domestic stuff).
Thank you Constantin. Actually a few things may happen. We may add some radiant very soon, at which point I will use the one inch tappings on the left and add the indirect(when the glass lined dies in 5 to 7 years) next to the boiler with new tappings and electrical right from the Logomatic.
Besides
> addressing the gas connection, you may also want
> to cover the electrical box to the top right of
> all the pumps, if you haven't done so
> already.
Yes, sparky is on the case.
>
> From your camera picture names, I
> presume you're using a Nikon. Like you, I have a
> lot of trouble getting the Nikon to focus in
> low-light situations. Even when we can see
> clearly, our prosumer Nikons let us down. To
> still get a sharp picture, use a flashlight to
> temporarily illuminate the object of your desire
> while pressing the shutter button down (which
> will allow the camera to focus), then turn the
> light away from the object before pressing the
> button down all the way. With people at night, I
> usually use a keychain red LED light that won't
> blind them, yet allows me to focus my camera.
> As much as I love my Nikon, I find the deliberate
> omission of a auto-focus assist light in their
> prosumer line to be unforgivable. Even if you
> supplement a Nikon prosumer model with a
> "Speedlight" flash (which has a built-in red AFA
> light), the firmware deliberately does not send
> the Speedlight the AFA signal. GRRRR!
I do have a Nikon but its a Coolpics 3200. Its small and easy to use. It has some light and red eye features.
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Buderus
Looks Great Ted,
Have you ever tried the Taco 007 with the built in check valve?I'm doing a 8 zone baseboard system with a Buderus G215/4 and I'm going to try them out.
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I have and I have nothing against Taco circs. I just think you get more for your money with the Grundfos. For example on this job. With the 3 speed circs, you can make each circ fit the application and still look uniform. The circ all the way to the right is set to low speed because its handling 20 feet of baseboard in the basement. There we can lower the electrical cost for the customer. Its not much of a savings, but I gives us that flexability.
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Nikon Coolpix
I have the venerable Coolpix 990 which does not have the AFA light. After some quick research over at Nikon, it appears that enough consumers complained to have the AFA light feature (finally!) get added to the Coolpix series.
Some of your pictures weren't that crisp, much like the ones produced by my Coolpix under low-light conditions, so that's why I thought your camera didn't have an AFA illuminator either. Perhaps you're too far away for it to work properly? I guess try the flashlight idea and see if you have an improvement of sharpness in low-light conditions.
As for the rest of the install, I love this sort of stuff. How long will it be until you get to install your first GB124?0 -
why did you...
take out the flow checks in the circ.? kpc
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Maybe I'm wrong but if you try to drain the loops wont the water stay in the supply and not drain back to the boiler?
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I've found with the 15-58
you don't need the flow checks or the discharge side iso flange. I have pressure tested those checks to 60 psi water pressure in the shop and been able to remove the pump motor. Just a thought
Nice clean work, also.
hot rod
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never thought...
of that. Yes it would be hard to do that....is the house seasonal? I guess you could blow out the lines with compressed air....kpc
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I had the same concern too Ted
when we started using the Taco IFC . The one time we had a leak above the pump , we actually siphoned the water through the return pipe to sweat it again .
How about leaving the built in check and adding a boiler drain above the pumps ? It might be cheaper than adding a flowvalve for each zone ? Great job with the Buderus , Ted .0 -
Ted
nice looking job. I love those Buderus products! Where do you get your " For service call" stickers from?
Regards
Robert
ME0 -
Hi Ted,
I'm not sure about the Buderus gas boilers, but the 1" tapings on the Buderus G115 oil boilers are not 1" NPT. They are 1" BSPP (British Standard Parallel Pipe) (yes, I know it is a German boiler). BSPP has a different threads per inch and 55 degree threads instead of 60 Degrees. The plugs on the Buderus boilers that I have checked were BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered) with a lot of pipe dope and string on the threads.
BSPP threads are intended to be sealed with a flat gasket. I am researching affordable adapters for the 1" BSPP tappings. I want to put a thermal well in one, possably the expansion tank in the second one and a radiant zone on the third one.
By the way, 1/2" and 3/4" British Standard Pipe threads have the same threads per inch as NPT, so with those two sizes only, you can interchange BSPT and NPT if you have enough layers of teflon tape. All the other sizes, both larger and smaller, have different threads per inch than NPT.
British Standard Pipe is sometimes also called Whitworth, ISO, "G" and sometimes "R" threads ( and ocasionally erroniously "Metric"). It seems to be the most common plumbing thread in europe, even in Metric countries.
Ron0 -
now I'm confused? By adding the flow checks and removing ifc's ,won't the zone stay filled anyway.I thought weighted flow checks prevent reverse flow.
I usually " crack" flange off pump and pull a siphon thru return.
very nice work,have you looked into propress fittings yet?may save time on copper headers.0 -
Nebs Business forms 800-225-9540
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Thanks Ted!!!!!!!!!
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adapter possibilities
Hey Ron,
run into this issue alot when working on european ships.
Mcmaster Carr has BSPP to NPTF in 1" male to 1"female in zinc chromate plated steel. # 4936K136
Also if you have'nt already try Parker fittings at www.parker.com
cheers
Nobby0
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