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retro radiant install

Mitch_4
Mitch_4 Member Posts: 955
Just bought a new (to me) home. Am discovering that one floor is VERY cold (1st winter, slab on grade, 30 years old, don't believe there is any insulation under it)

The long term plan is to convert the forced air system to radiant. I have some stuff, pumps and heat ex. As a temp heat, I want to use the domestic hot water tank through a heat ex to give some relief to my old cold toes.

Layout / heat loss done.
My question is this: I was going to do a 2" overpour of gypcrete, but I saw the post on the Roth radiant.

Which would be better for a 30 yr old no insulation slab on grade?

I am now leaning to the Roth system, because it is thinner (I won't have to raise the door as far) and adds a layer of insulation. Can install directly on it, no cure time, and much easier to do in the winter.

Any thoughts form the experts here would be greatly appreciated.

Mitch

Comments

  • Weezbo
    Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
    Hold on to the dollars ....

    there are some very good reasons for insulation Under and around and out from cement slabs.....soil samples, core samples give added information as to the advantage or disadvantage of an over pour...or higher temp build up....here we would recommend insulation first line of economic err... comfort.
  • Paul Pollets
    Paul Pollets Member Posts: 3,665
    Thermal Break

    The Roth system provides a thermal break between the new tubing and the existing slab (without extra loss in head height). The water heater/HX may work temporarily, depending upon how large the heat loss is. I'd recommend controlling the temps with outdoor reset and a condensing boiler, if nat. gas or propane is available.

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  • Mitch_4
    Mitch_4 Member Posts: 955
    Thanks Paul

    That is the consideration in using the Roth panel.

    Long term plan is to use a condensing & modualting boiler, and do radiant on all floors. (5 zones total) with an indirect (and dare I dream a snow melt too?) but the budget isn't there for the boiler and the system this minute, and these floors are cold. The HWH is definitely a temporary solution. The forced air system will be staying in place for A/C, and a backup heat source if the boiler goes down while I am away. The total project will take 2-3 years unless the budget changes (lottery).

    Mitch
  • Mitch_4
    Mitch_4 Member Posts: 955
    Did you mean

    adding insulation under the overpour?

    That is still an option in other aspects of this reno, but for this floor it is already poured, and I don't want to break it up and repour after adding insulation. The building envellope is well insulated, although the windows need some upgrading.

    Thank you Weezbo.

    M
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