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lochinvar efficiency+

Kent_3
Kent_3 Member Posts: 60
Does anybody have experience getting a Lochinvar "efficiency+" to lite off? This is a natural gas version. In desparation I found the boiler will run if I unplug the blower, fool the air pressure sensor, and remove the front cover, thus creating an atmospheric burner.

Kent
Tahoe Thermal

Comments

  • Dave Stroman
    Dave Stroman Member Posts: 766


    Wow, all those things you have done can not be good. Hope you did not leave is running that way. These boilers depend on that blower to vent properly. Do you have the manual? There are detailed instructions on how to adjust gas pressure and how to adjust the shutter for the air mixture. Is this an older boiler? Sometimes there is so much junk sucked in by the blower that the burners can get clogged up. If so, you need to remove the burners and submerge them in water and wash them out.

    Dave in Denver

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • Kent_3
    Kent_3 Member Posts: 60
    Dave

    Dave,
    This is a new boiler. I didn't leave it like this, but this proved that the electronic control is working. I've adjusted the flow control, the gas pressure, removed the breeching, etcetera, all to no avail.
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    They are very sensitive

    to incoming gas pressure. Check it at static and as the unit trys to fire off.

    A little finicky at high altitudes sometimes, does it have the high altitude kit installed? These used to be an option, maybe they are now standard??

    Flow through the HX is also critical to "make" the flow switch and get the circuit to the burner enabled.

    hot rod

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  • Kent_3
    Kent_3 Member Posts: 60


    The pressure at lite-off is 1.9 inches. I forget what the reading is when static. The altitude is 6500' and the sticker on the side says it is set up for high altitude (4000'-8000').
    The boiler was supposed to come in as a natural gas unit, but it arrived as a propane. I got a conversion kit which consisted of a different gas valve and different gas orifices.

    Mr. Hot Rod, what is the high altitude kit?
  • BigRed
    BigRed Member Posts: 104


    call the service number for lochinvar it is usally on a sticker right on the machine, ask for Dean Gray, and have all you testing equipment on hand and in boiler room so you can trouble shoot the problem while on the phone. I have done this many times if you dont get Dean thats OK to
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    Hi altitude

    if the boiler has that sticker it should be set for your altitude. Usually any of the pressure sensing controls have larger diaphrams, to work better in the thinner air.

    hot rod

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  • Sweet
    Sweet Member Posts: 31
    Lochinvar

    Just curious, have you checked vacuum on D.I making sure it makes pressure switch. Sometimes its the little things.
  • Kent_3
    Kent_3 Member Posts: 60


    Thank you, gentlemen. I'll forge ahead with all of your generous advice.

    Kent
  • Rudy
    Rudy Member Posts: 482


    what does your flue look like? Lochinvars are verry picky when it comes to draft and if the boiler will light, even with the safties jumped, sounds like too much draft to me. do you have a barometric damper installed 10-12" above the flue outlet of the boiler? What is the model # of this boiler? I am a Lochinvar warranty dealer and do many factory start up's for other contractors most problems are draft related. Get me a model # so I can get correct settings for this boiler. Efficency + is a generic sticker found on most new Lochinvar boilers. Eric
  • Kent_3
    Kent_3 Member Posts: 60


    I finally got the boiler lit today. I'm not at the jobsite now but I can tell you this:

    The boiler has forced combustion, 150,000 input, was converted to natural gas from propane, has three orifices which are #33 drill size, and is operated at 6500' elevation.

    The manual says manifold pressure should be 1.8" water column.
    The boiler wouldn't lite at this setting. I had to crank the adjuster almost all the way in(thus increasing the pressure to around 3") to get the flame recognised.

    As to the draft idea I did try to start the boiler with the breeching disconnected. This seemed not to help. Also I varied the air input with the slide valve provided at the mouth of the volute. This, too, didn't help. As I said, the only way it would lite was to increase the manifold pressure virtually as high as it would go. I'll test the exhaust gases to see what the boiler is doing but I think if I don't like the readings it'll be tough bananas because if I change the settings the burner will stall.
  • Kent_3
    Kent_3 Member Posts: 60


    I finally got the boiler lit today. I'm not at the jobsite now but I can tell you this:

    The boiler has forced combustion, 150,000 input, was converted to natural gas from propane, has three orifices which are #33 drill size, and is operated at 6500' elevation.

    The manual says manifold pressure should be 1.8" water column.
    The boiler wouldn't lite at this setting. I had to crank the adjuster almost all the way in(thus increasing the pressure to around 3") to get the flame recognised.

    As to the draft idea I did try to start the boiler with the breeching disconnected. This seemed not to help. Also I varied the air input with the slide valve provided at the mouth of the volute. This, too, didn't help. As I said, the only way it would lite was to increase the manifold pressure virtually as high as it would go. I'll test the exhaust gases to see what the boiler is doing but I think if I don't like the readings it'll be tough bananas because if I change the settings the burner will stall.
  • Kent_3
    Kent_3 Member Posts: 60


    I finally got the boiler lit today. I'm not at the jobsite now but I can tell you this:

    The boiler has forced combustion, 150,000 input, was converted to natural gas from propane, has three orifices which are #33 drill size, and is operated at 6500' elevation.

    The manual says manifold pressure should be 1.8" water column.
    The boiler wouldn't lite at this setting. I had to crank the adjuster almost all the way in(thus increasing the pressure to around 3") to get the flame recognised.

    As to the draft idea I did try to start the boiler with the breeching disconnected. This seemed not to help. Also I varied the air input with the slide valve provided at the mouth of the volute. This, too, didn't help. As I said, the only way it would lite was to increase the manifold pressure virtually as high as it would go. I'll test the exhaust gases to see what the boiler is doing but I think if I don't like the readings it'll be tough bananas because if I change the settings the burner will stall.
  • Rudy
    Rudy Member Posts: 482


    Come on, give up the model number or I can't really help. Sounds like you've turned every adjustment possible, from your posts I'm guessing it's probably an EB model. Read the IOM carefully, follow the venting instructions exactly, then reset the combustuion air damper to the correct setting. From your posts I'll bet your trying to fire the boiler with the gas valve pressure regulator cover removed, if you are the symptoms you are describing will occur exactly. If all else fails contact your selling dealer and find who the Lochinvar sales rep is, He should be more than happy to help you with restoring the boiler to factory set-up specs and assist you with start-up info. If you Don't have the IOM it's available for download form lochinvar.com in pdf format. Eric
This discussion has been closed.