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required air scoop?
jfgh
Member Posts: 3
I am going to add an hydronic unit heater to my garage as a new zone to my existing boiler. I plan on using a plate heatexchanger to allow me to have a glycol loop in the garage zone. The current boiler is not a glycol system. There will be about 40ft of 3/4" pipe plus the unit heater. Do you think I can get by without an air scoop and automatic vent if I purge the system well and am careful when adding the glycol?
0
Comments
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> I am going to add an hydronic unit heater to my
> garage as a new zone to my existing boiler. I
> plan on using a plate heatexchanger to allow me
> to have a glycol loop in the garage zone. The
> current boiler is not a glycol system. There will
> be about 40ft of 3/4" pipe plus the unit heater.
> Do you think I can get by without an air scoop
> and automatic vent if I purge the system well and
> am careful when adding the glycol?
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yes
Myself,I don't use any automatic vents on the glycol side of things due to them leaking or venting air and the system losing pressure. It's worked fine for me.0 -
I mean no...
By yes I mean is works fine for me without one, not yes you need an air scoop. lol
Phil0 -
An air scoop is cheap and an easy way to mount the expansion tank for that isolated loop. Consider the plate exchanger as if it was a boiler and pump away. I would use an automatic air vent but I would keep it caped after getting all the air out.
Ron0 -
I would
add a small ball valve 1/8" or 1/4" at the highest point near the unit heater (assuming the unit heater is the highest point in the glycoled loop) Purge well at the fill point, burp the mini ball valve when you get to the highest temperature, a time or two, and you should be fine.
Unless you open the system and allow more air and O2 in
As with any glycol, run a cleaner through the system first to clean out oils, fluxes, etc.
I agree auto vents are a common leak point with glucol.
hot rod
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