Another open basement

Unknown

a National US Radiator boiler . Not sure , but I know it was beyond heavy . Splitting it into sections woulda released more soot than the smog monster . So we picked up the power handtruck . And of course there were tight turns at both ends of the stairs and going out the house .

The 2nd pic shows the circs . Who in their right mind installs the boiler so close to the wall with the circs behind ? Those small wet rotor pumps couldn't have been the originals either .

Unknown

We kept the new one ,

a Burnham V83 , 5 feet away from the oil tank , as per code . I'm not sure how close the tank can be to the fluepipe though . It's definitely more than 18 inches .

We also got our hands on some IFCs . They really are a timesaver . And this was the 1st time we had 3 - 1/2 inch zones . Each one was a very short baseboard loop .

Gotta question about the expansion tank placement . Is it more optimal to have it connected right in the 1/2 inch port built into the air eliminator ? Or will it work just as well where we have it on this job ? I just don't like hanging it in 1/2 inch .

kevin coppinger_4

Ron...

nice and neat as usual. Have you everconsidered reusing the conventional expantion tank...nothing to ever break.Nice to see you are able to use the 007ifc's. I use the grundfos 15-58 almost exclusively. But the 007 are fine. I love the furnco on the oil tank vent! About your barometric placement...I was told not to orient it that way because you can create a venturi...is that so? Your extrol local is fine....4" will not make a difference...kpc

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Mike Kraft_2

presto - changeo

Good job.............that fernco on the tank vent would worry me more than hanging a tank off of 1/2"!

cheese

lchmb

incredible

How in the world could someone have ever changed a circ on that old system?? I can imagion that call at 2 am. Few choice word's to be spoken. Nice job per the norm, as to the expansion tank, I don't think you'll have any isssue's with your placement (although from my standpoint would still like to see a shutoff on it)..:) Some day I need to go to Long Island, you guy's do some nice work although different from the way's I was taught. Would love to see the difference up close...:)

lchmb

How about

The fact the fill is two inch and the vent is one inch...A truck pumping 80 gallons a minute is going to make one (*#&^% of a mess..:(

Unknown

Kevin

We have the barometric in the run of the tee . Here's another pic showing it .

Naa , we never reuse the compression tanks . They'll always fill with water , sometimes more than once a year . The Extrol can last a decade or 2 . I'd rather have all the air out of the system . Less of a chance it'll escape into the piping . Thanks alot Kevin .

kevin coppinger_4

Hey Lchmb...

how about a road trip...swing by Dover and pick me up! kpc

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

kevin coppinger_4

aah..now

I see...kpc

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Unknown

Yeah , i noticed the fernco too

Put it on my paperwork to have a supervisor know about it . It's a fairly new account and more than likely we were the first company employees in the basement .

lchmb

have to plan that

We'll have to make that one for the spring. You bring the direction's though, if I leave NH I get lost..If he's on an island can we go fishing to?? LOVE bassfishing..:)

Bruce M.

Nice work Ron!

What size nipples do you use on the header between the circulators? Are they 3-1/2"? With the Taco "00" it seems that the shortest nipples that I can use with 1-1/4" pipe is the 3-1/2" one. Is that 1-1/4" header and is that a plug at the end of the line? Is that a "Close" nipple under the circulator? I like the look of the three Taco circulators nice and close.

Unknown

Make it summer

and you both can do some fishin' with me in the Great South Bay . I got a 21 footer that sometimes runs good .

But you both know , before we go out we gotta install a boiler , right ? Thanks alot Kev and Lchmb .

Unknown

Those were 1 1/4 by 4 inch

and they were as close as you can get , and be able to remove the circ cover easy .

We come out of the boiler with an 1 1/2 by 10 nip , 1 1/2 by 1 1/4 by 3/4 tee for the LWCO , then the circs . Yep , we used close nipples under the circs and a plug in the end of the line , for future zones . One thing I hate doing is breaking into an existing header to add an indirect . Thanks for asking , you reminded me to leave Earthlee a message . I'm thinking they can fabricate one piece to take care of all the vertical nipples and tees .

Thank you Bruce .

D Logan Ireland Oil Co Inc

Ron,to answer your question yes put it under the air eliminator. Between the air eliminator and the expansion tank install a brass tee and pipe the water supply into the tee. I will post some pictures next week to show you how we fabricate these risers in the shop before we start the boiler replacement installation. You will not believe how simple this procedure is.

J.C.A._3

lchmb and Kevin,

Why not make a couple of days of it, and join us in a Brookhaven seminar ? Our friend, Alan Mercurio sets up one in the spring/summer and we get to sit and jaw with the brightest minds in the oil industry, with the people that are setting the standards and making the rules for us.

Ron made it to the gathering 2 times...so far, and I love meeting people of the same mindset. This is ALWAYS a good seminar, and an even better "meeting of the mindless" seems to both preceed and proceed the occasion.(Kind of like Wetstock for the oily smellers among us)

Keep your eye on OTT. I'm sure Alan will be annoncing the next one in short order. Chris

Bob Harper

venting issues

Ron, beautiful job!

I have a few issues on the venting I'd like to run by the group:
1) Baro. placement-- According to Field Controls and Bacharach, it should be close to the appliance. I'd recommend putting it the first straight leg where you can get about 2 feet of straight run from the appliance collar or ells. Why? Because your test hole should be about 1.5 to 2 duct diameters from the collar or ells. 95% of them I find in an ell right off the collar. Not very accurate readings from there.

2) Support- I'd like to see either pipe hanging strap or drives attached at each end of the horzontal run. Only takes a minute. I dub the corners for a neater appearance. Bldg. inspectors love to see that kind of attention to detail like Ron's careful piping and wiring layout here. 2 Zip screws per end. Drives are cool because they can be used in compression unlike straps. Can't tell but each joint should have at least 3 screws placed equidistantly. Also, no pipe seams down to collect acid condensate. You pipe is pitched nicely. Many contractors make a hard offset over to the breech thinking they're doing good, By coming off the top as high as you can before offsetting, you get a head of steam up as it were before the restriction of the horizonatal ell. More and more important as homes get tighter.

3) Clean out- NFPA 211 and 31 require a cleanout on oil. Even if it has a liner, you need a clean out for oil or oil/gas common vented. What we do around Philly is bring the liner into the basement like a hockey stick, then attach a wye or tee for the cleanout. Then you can make your run to the boiler or install a tee to bring in the gas water heater from the side.

4) Top take offs- Rear take offs add a lot of flue restriction as well as taking up valuable room. Just as pointed out about making room for circulators btw the boiler and wall, what about the chimney connector? It's one helluva lot easier to move water under pressure than to make smoke under draft go where you want it to. It only takes about -3 to -5 Pascals to spill smoke from most atmospherically vented appliances. God Bless those who use top take offs and curse all those who use the rear on Weil-Mc Gold boilers! Those dammned asthmatic things may be nice from ya'lls perspective but they are hell to vent. You cannot downsize liners on them. Thank God for 5.5" liners!

Don't you just love those wide open basements where you have room light, and access without tripping over other crap?