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Newer Burnham steam boiler maintenance

Matt_28
Matt_28 Member Posts: 34
I have a newer one pipe steam system that was installed last year. I am wondering what the proper weekly, monthly maintenance should be. I have read the Burnham manual and We got steam heat regarding maintenance and I cannot find any specific instruction for a steam boiler with a probe low water cut-off. I also have a label on the boiler stating that I should not have to add water more than once a month to the system. The installer instructed me to drain the boiler weekly until the water ran clear, then refill it. I have also been draining the wet return until it ran clear and started to drain the fill glass on a monthly basis. My concern is that I may be adding too much fresh water to the system with weekly draining. I am wondering if I should be doing this monthly since the label states that I should not be adding water more than once a month?

My fill glass, after 1 week looks rusty, drops about 3/4 of an inch and bounces about 1/2 inch when the system is on.

Thanks for any advise you can relay. I have been reading this forum for almost a year and it has always been helpful.

Matt

Comments

  • Matt

    Draining the boiler every week just after the install is basically another way of getting rid of some of the oils and debris that is coming into the boiler from the system. Flushing the returns is also a good way of keeping this from entering the boiler but to do it effectively it will require an isolation valve where it connects back into the boiler piping. You are correct in that large amounts of fresh water are not going to do the boiler justice over an extended period of time.

    Usually the water will clear up a bit after a period of time so it will not be neccessary to keep changing the boiler water. Skimming is a recommended way of eliminating the oils but should be done by the installer or technician for liability reasons. depending on which brand of probe LWCO you are equipped with, the procedures for cleaning and testing may vary. There is usually a pamphlet included in your envelope pertaining to this and it describes the procedures. It will either be from McDonnell-Miller or Hydrolevel. Either way, the probe should be checked on an annual basis and cleaned or replaced if neccessary. This too is something that should be done by the technician. Hope this helps.

    Glenn Stanton

    Manager of Training

    Burnham Hydronics

    www.burnham.com
  • Matt_28
    Matt_28 Member Posts: 34
    Glenn

    Thanks Glenn for your quick response. I hope you can answer my follow up questions.
    I have a drain valve in the lowest point for my wet return that I use for draining. Is this what you would consider an isolation valve?
    Would you suggest cold skimming as an effective way for me to rid the system of any excess oils? I have a permanent valve attached to my pressure relief valve that I think I could use for this.
    I do have the Hydrolevel probe LWCO.
    Finally, should I be judging the cleanliness of my system based from the fill glass? If it contains rusty water after a week should I continue to drain a bit and fill or let it sit longer? What would be the recommended time to wait before changing this water? I drained the rusty water weekly last winter, should this have been enough time for the water to clear?
    I have wondered if the original installer skimmed my system. I purchased the house just after it was installed and it was summer time.
    Thanks Matt
  • Matt

    The problem with simply draining the water out of the boiler is that it does not neccessarily get rid of the oils that accumulate. These may be on top of the water and end up accumulating on the section walls when you drain the boiler. Add new water and the oils are there again. Skimming is a more effective way. The relief valve tapping is not the best place to accomplish this. There is a skim tapping right near the relief valve for this purpose on the gas boilers and a rear skim tapping on the oil boilers. I will warn you that getting the plug out for this will not be easy...particularly after a heating season has gone by already. It is best left up to the technician to do this.

    I might add that you will probably always see a bit of rust in the water. This is not so much of a problem as the accumulated oils. The oils will prohibit the boiler from producing effective amounts of dry steam to make the system heat properly. If the system is working properly with no signs of surging or pipes banging, I wouldn't be too concerned. The isolation valve I am referring to on the wet returns would be installed on the riser from the wet returns to the connection at the equalizer.

    Glenn Stanton

    Manager of Training

    Burnham Hydronics

    www.burnham.com
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