This is what I want to do

Ken_8

good.

But either will work - for a while.

Until the junk in the rusty system water destroys the pump seal, jams the wet rotor, or the sediment trap becomes the indirect where it is virtually impossible to get out.

If you absolutely must, go ahead.

A tankless coil is the best way. If however, none can be installed - you have few choices, none of them inexpensive nor teribly reliable.

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Bill_39

Will either one of these work and if so which way is better

I drew pictures. I will use tappings on the opposite side of the boiler and the flo checks will not be above the waterline I just drew it this way to make it easier

Kal Row

a few things..

in your attached diag, went above the boiler water level which is fine, (“upside-down cardboard covered cup full of water trick”) providing 3 things:

1)all non soldered (ie not air-tight) fittings like valves, unions, etc, must be below the boiler’s water level

2)you need to use a high starting torque bronze pump that wont stick to the sludge

3)you need to run the boiler until it’s hottest (ie the pressuretrol cuts it out) and set the by pass valve so the supply is not more than 180, and remove the valve handle so that no one (especially you) messes with it – this way the water at the top of the loop wont flash into steam and blow your joints


read dan holohan’s “how come” book

and you really need to become familiar with water’s temp and vapor pressure relationship, before you mess with stuff like that – you are loosing 1 pound of pressure in the loop for every 2.33ft vertical,– save yourself the grief, and use a shell/tube heat exchanger, and flat-plate type, might get clogged up too quickly from a steam boiler’s water

Bill_39

I have the book

I have the book and I have read it. It doesn't really say if it's better to use a hx. Thats what I'm trying to find out. It just says that you can do it both ways