Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
2-Flo Control
Jim_46
Member Posts: 30
I think I got it figured that both flo control valves should be the same 1 1/4" size since the one flo was sized for this original system. I can then reduce down to 3/4" for the 3/4" piping of the new zone 2 radiant floor. How does this look? JE
0
Comments
-
Okay, I don't have it figured out. Can anyone please help me out here, I took the day off to repipe this Flo control situation and I need a couple of things answered. I must point out again, that I didn't take this on voluntarily, the heating contractor that started this job hasn't come back in 2 1/2 months because of bigger jobs and no one wants to finish what another contractor started. I have got everything wired and plumbed correctly except for where I piped into the main supply at the boiler. You can see a crude schematic of my new zone in reply #10 in the thread titled Flo Control Valve. I realize now after your help that I should have teed off before the Flo Control that controls the original Zone 1 radiator system and then added another Flo Control valve for the new Zone 2. What I don't know is do I use the exact same model Flo control as the Zone 1 (Armstrong 1 1/4" Flo) or do I use a smaller Flo Control. The new Zone 2 has two 200' pex loops pumped with a Astro 30B. The floor, pump & maniflod are 17' away from the boiler. The 3 way Conbraco mix valve is located in the boiler room. The room is aprox. 234 sq. ft. with a 9 1/2 ft ceiling with 3 large windows. The pex was layed and figured by the heating contractor and the heating supplier so that is correct. Anyways by looking at the picture in this thread, what would you recommend I do, or change etc. I am replacing the original Flo because it leaks a little out the knob on top but I don't know what to use for the zone two Flo control. Since I am purchasing an Armstrong replacement I would prefer to buy the same brand for the new zone since I am trying to pick it up today. Thank you JE0 -
You took the day off???
Its Thanksgiving, your suppose to be off today. JE, you must first determine the FLOW before you pipe it. You must have a pipe large enough to handle the load. I personally prefer to pump toward the flow valve. Did you receive your book(s) in the mail yet? If so, the answers to your questions should all be in there...Happy Thanksgiving!..Robert O'Connor/NJ0 -
Happy Thanks Giving to you to Robert. No I won't get them until around Dec. 28th, thats why I am desperate to find some answers now. We will be going away all weekend for our 10 year anniversary so I need to get this job finished up in the next 2 days. Do you think you could help me out? Maybe I could email you directly if you have a few minutes? If I put the new Flo control at the boiler beside the other one then this one would be before the new zone 2 pump but the pump is 17' away and it is all on 3/4" copper. The original zone 1 has the pump above the boiler on the supply but the pump is on the return just before the boiler. Any thoughts?0 -
JE
Happy thanksgiving day. Sorry to hear about your contractor.
The leak on your flow control? Did you attempt to thighten the packing nut? Usually 7/16 or 1/2" hex nut?
You are correct in that the tee must come before the other flow control. I would not advice the full size 1-1/4" valve for your smaller 3/4" zone. It may chatter or not open enough for adequate flow. It has a brass weight which must be lifted by the pump or by the flow of water.
You do not have to match brands. It is personal preference. In my area Armstrong is not available so we use Taco or B&G. They all do the same thing. You can also buy this product in copper sweat version if the would be easier for you.
You may be able to buy a repair kit for your leaking valve. You leave the body in place and replace the internals. This may require a big wrench.0 -
JE
send me an e-mail with a phone #0 -
JE..
I have no way of knowing if the piping,pump,heatloss,tubing length is correct. Your only gonna get so many BTU's out of a pipe. If the size you selected is 3/4" then I would GUESS?? that the right size flo control would also be 3/4". I would however, cut in the tee and run the pipe to my manifold and install the flow control after the pump. Robert O'Connor/NJ0 -
Personally
I'd scrap the "boat anchor" flow checks and use circs with intergral checks. Then you could get the correct size circ, have a 3 speed (Grundfos 15-58) for more adjustability, and fix all the issues in one swipe.
Generally check valves of any sort should be sized by flow rates, not pipe size, to avoid noise problems.
I've always been told the weighted type flow valves should be downstream of a pump?? Although I see them installed before circs on ocassion.
More info on flow valves at this link.
http://www.bellgossett.com/Press/flocontrol.html
hot rod
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
So am I presuming that right after I tee off from the boiler that I should just start the pipe and not put in the Flo control there next to the other one, but I should put it the 17' away after the pump? Right after my pump I have a oneway check and then a temp. gauge and then the manifold. Should I maybe get rid of the check after the pump and install the Flo control there just before the manifold or after the manifold in the return line going back to the boiler?0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.6K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 54 Biomass
- 423 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 98 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.5K Gas Heating
- 101 Geothermal
- 157 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.5K Oil Heating
- 66 Pipe Deterioration
- 931 Plumbing
- 6.2K Radiant Heating
- 384 Solar
- 15.2K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 43 Industry Classes
- 48 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements